I tried way more youtube remedies for different thing that didn’t work than did Goran. Personal experience overrides people sticking things on YT mainly to get views. I feel sorry for people that have wasted time and ruined engines with all the idiotic wood gas posts I see.
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Nifty idea, I use scrap wood boards for my jigs. Lots of that chinsy thin plywood that comes with crates sometimes.
He covers it in the video but for round holes and you use a drag tip cutter, add 1/4" to compensate for the offset of the torch tip, eg a 2.25" hole would equal a 2" hole with the plasma cutter.
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In case SHTF, or SHYB (S*^% hit your budget) and you need a polishing wheel… Apparently you can use cardboard. 
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Here’s something I’ve recently learned. You can resize engine cylinders in your garage, which allows you to do an engine overhaul for relatively little $$$$.
I found this video about a micrometer cylinder hone. Then discovered that cylinder bores are hardened at the factory to 1.5-2.5mm skin depth. This is much deeper than anyone would rebore.
This is one of those old style AMERICAN tools, its big, clunky, expensive, it works very well and lasts forever.
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The gasket between the bowl and the carb on my 6hp briggs dried up and broke. Can I use like rtv or do I have to go buy a new one and if so, are they a standard size?
Also instead of a slot for a screwdriver, this has a jet and another hole that are offset from center is it safe to use like retaining clip pliers to unscrew the jet/nozzle?
It was a curb find lawnmower so I think it sat for a while. but I did get it running for a bit on gas but it alternated between fast then slow before it ran out of gas.
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Hi SeanO’
Nope never use RTV or any sticky sealer product on carburetor to manifold/or/head(s).
Never, ever.
Here’s why. Many, many carbs in there bases have grooved passageways for flows.
The old Stihl MS80 carb did not. The new replacement does.
Any filler goo will clog these up.
Just use a gasoline rated fiber gasket sheet scissors cut. And punched or drilled for the mounting bolts/studs holes.
None readily available?? Temporarily use a colored printed breakfast cereal box sheeting. Cut out two matching with the shiny sides stacked outwards.
Safe jet removal? I’d have to see a detailed picture.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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I don’t think RTV is gasoline rated. I’ve never tried using it for a float bowl.
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There are no holes. It is the one between the bowl and the carb. It looked like a big o-ring, but It didn’t flake off like one.
I have some I think gray or blue permatex stuff that is leftover from maybe a water pump that I think said is gas and oil rated.
Worse.
The edge squeeze out inside will likely gasoline react enough to break loose getting sucked up into the center feed well.
You choice man. YMMV
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Ahhh. I see. Use any kind of spray/drip on pentatrant on the threads to lubricate.
Use your snap ring pliers or a small set of needle nose pliers with the tips taped or sleeved (plastic tubing; shrink tubing) to prevent marking damage. Then a screwdriver or slim punch thru the handles for a TEE grip turning.
Here is for principals on carb gasket making:
You being soft zinc casting versus his cast iron want to use only light tap-tap’ing around for the outer impression you will be cutting later away. Afterwards; (you the reverse of him) rough cut out the center first. Start with the center cut out small. Able to fit down then to tap impression, then small fine scissors spiral work outwards gapped to the inside of the outer tapped impression. Last you cut the outside to remove the impression and just fit inside the raised edge.
Might take you 2-3 tries, but this can be done alright. Me. Summers 1970 and 71 in a small engine shop. Such skills learned never really goes away.
Ha. Life is great if you don’t weaken.
S.U.
.
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That works. I used to use old telephone book covers because they had a layer of thin cloth in them. Don’t know where you find that type of material anymore.
Rindert
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I was thnking snap ring pliers but coating them is an excellent idea if it doesn’t make it too thick.
I think I have seen that method used for a gasket on a tractor.
I THINK in small engines class, we were supposed to take the gasket material, poke the holes for the bolts out, put it on, cranked the bolts down, and then remove them to leave the impression. OR that might have been the shortcut, and you were supposed to coat it with the indigo stuff from the metals shop, and set the gasket on it.
Then cut it all out with a utility or exacto knife. That got around kids smashing up their parents lawnmower carbs and aluminum engine blocks up in class. And I wouldn’t have remembered that without you making me think about it.
If it is what I am thinking it is, the library probably has some.
The plastic coating on boxboard is #1 PET plastic, the stuff they use for water bottles. I think they use it on cereal boxes, but for sure frozen foods and like soda and beer 12-24 cases. Incidentally the thickness of the coating is why a lot of recyclers won’t accept them.
Boxboard with a piece of plastic cut out from a water bottle might actually work better then two pieces of boxboard since the cardboard layer is thinner. Once that heats up, the pressure seemingly would press the plastic into the cardboard.
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Hi Sean, i’ve actually tried gas resistant rtv on my riding lawnmower, almost exactly the same carb as yours, dont work, exactly as SteveU says it clogs the inlet for the nozzle, everytime, 3 attempts 
This little gasket is cumbersome to make, because it’s so thin, but it is possible to make from gasket material.
Original should be like an o-ring with square cross section.
Ptfe thread seal tape works as a emergency solution if you wind it carefully around the bowl, about 3/4 of it’s width on the outside, the fold the rest over the edge.
About 5-8 tight turns.
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Good Morning All,
I am very aware that at times I seem as if I’ve-Done-It-All; therefore know-it-all (an insult said to smart-asses).
Not true at all.
I’ve never done one of the newer automotive Stretch-On belts. Precision manufacturing with set solid mounted power driven accessories have allowed for this.
Takes a five piece special installations tool set from Gates Rubber Co to do them all.
Or some can be done with this aftermarket “universal”. Watch these for just how much these belt when new can be safely stretched and recover:
So to do the power steering pump now noisy belt on the Wife Ford Edge; driving 25+ miles to buy this tool, I read the 1 star reviews. WILL NOT work on 2007-2014 Ford Edged due to inner fender wall clearances. Users had to use wooden popsicle sticks plus the “Zip-Ties” (nylon tie-wraps) method. ??? Here:
The TIP is to also use a few cut nylon tie wrap lengths UNDER the belt too to help it slide on with less chance of being steel pulley edge nicked, damaged.
Always learning
Steve Unruh
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First time I’ve even heard of a stretch belt.
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You should be glad not knowing about them, and very happy as long you dont need to replace one, a real PITA.
At work we don’t have any special tools for them, only some hard plastic wedges, often we help each other, one turns a pulley, the other guides the belt from below
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yeah. That is why I asked. I wasn’t sure if they made a gas rated gasket material.
Apparently I can order a whole new knockoff carb with gaskets for 10 dollars off amazon or ebay, or buy gasket material for 5 dollars locally. hrm how cheap am i?
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I am heavily invested in the Milwaukee M12 line. A fair amount of cash. I have used and abused this stuff for 4 years now and no real complaints other than the recip saw is pretty guttless. I have been using the drill motor to power the auger I use for planting. The drill finally quit on me the other day. I’m guessing the overload protection got sick of the loads that auger was putting on it. Can’t find anyway that can be repaired. First time ever youtube has let me down. I have a Worx battery powered string trimmer with 2 twenty V batteries and a dual charger and needing a cordless drill I picked up a 50 dollar Worx one. Even with the extra Volts it has about half the power to the 12V milwaukee. You get what you pay for as always. I should have just taken my little inverter generator down to the garden and used the corded drill I mix mortar with. Right tool for the right job dumb ass says the voice in my head.
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Did you try swapping batteries? There is a thermal protection resistor on the battery pack that shuts off the pack when it gets too hot.
I would think there would be something similar on the motor as well but I am not finding anything either.
But these guys mention brushes… You have used it a lot, so it could be a brush or just a motor that has gone bad. I know it isn’t your model but I would think they are relatively close.
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