I’ve been thinking about a way to close feed bags.
We use these things called a Grip-Stic to close chip bags.
I want to make one out of PVC pipe with a dowel inside and a slit cut lengthwise.
You lead the stick portion behind a fold in the bag and slide the tube portion over to lock it down.
Of course a drawstring would also work but then I’d have to buy rope for every bag I make.
I’ve been kicking around the idea of asking on CraigsList for used baler twine. I’m thinking an old feed sack full of the twine from 40lb bales will last quite a while.
Rindert
Some years back I wanted something to train my garden plants up and it needed to be thin enough for the plastic tomato clips to bite on. I went into Tractor Supply and found the plastic baling twine. The price was way better for the bigger rolls and I bought an mile of it. works great but doesn’t break down so I spend a lot of time gathering up the old stuff and burning it. I’ll never use it all but I"ve used it for a lot of stuff besides gardening. But if you want the thicker cord Rindert, find a hops grower. Every harvest they cut the cords and let them drop and then have to use new the next year. They would be glad to get rid of the old stuff.
All the bags of feed we got from the elevator when I was a kid were burlap, and they switched to plastic, but they were just bunched/twisted up at the top and tied with a half-hitch using baler twine. (the plastic doesn’t work as well as the hemp/sissel) And about the same time they switched from regular stitching to a serger, and that cuts the edge off neatly and stitches over the seam like most of the clothes you buy.
The seed corn bags were paper and they used a chain stitched sewing machine that put the piece of paper in with the stitches to rip.
Depending on what you have and your purpose, it might serve you better to put the hinge on the side rather then the top. then you can just pull up the bag and pinch it from the side and have it snap shut. But usually you grab the bags from the top, and getting a clip to hold all that weight probably isn’t going to be that easy. Kind of like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Twixit-Linden-Sweden-Mega-Clip/dp/B004TGPQ82/ref=asc_df_B004TGPQ82/
But if I was looking for something more permanent, I would use like silicon rubber for the middle part so it smushes because you aren’t going to get a feed bag perfect every time. The rest of that one is just made of polypropylene or #5 plastic ie bottle caps which you can remelt and reform. like you could make a chunk, then cnc it to shape, or make a mold and cast it, and you may have to use injection molding for that.
Another way would be to make it like a paper clip.
Is there any or much difference between diaphragm pumps between the air and liquid versions besides they advertise different uses?
I need an air pump to run a bubbler, and I need a pump to move the liquid out of the tank. And a diaphragm pump would work for yet another application.
I looked it up, found this in another forum:
You will need to do it with the Head removed.
The exhaust valve is held with collets and the top and bottom are different so they don’t get mixed up.
Compress the spring and remove the half moon collets with a magnet, then remove the valve stem. Sometimes they are stubborn.
The valve not closing completely may be due to a compression release mechanism, for easier starting.
Briggs called it Easy Spin Starting. It was introduced in 1961. (i looked it up.)
But all they did was put a spot on the intake valve cam so it doesn’t close all the way for the first part of the compression cycle. It is like 1/100th of an inch. when it is turning, at slow speeds a bunch of air escapes, at 3600 rpm it is only open for 1/200th of a second so it is almost negligible.
To check the compression on those engines you have to turn them backwards.
All according to:
https://recoveryvehicles.tpub.com/TM-5-4240-501-14P/css/TM-5-4240-501-14P_290.htm
sean, cody , andrew, thanks for help, i wondered just how to detect if there is a compression release, as the answer of sean comes…if there is a compression release, it works on the intake valve…in my case the exhaust valve not closes well…
this morning i tried a bit with the exhaust valve shaft and pusher rods…on the exhaust valve seems at the sector where explosion happens and most part of working cyclus it closes really, the valve is not more to turn with the finger on the valve head, …this could be indeed a “easy spin” spot , but on the exhaust ! valve cam…
but what happens when i am shortening the valve to the right distance around 0,3 mm distance to the pusher rod? is than the easy spin " mechanism" disactivated??
the distance but must be correct because of heat expansion of the valve, in way the exhaust valve not overheats and it closes always perfect in the timing when it should be closed …is the 1/100 spot on cam of easy spin system not a contraddiction to the heat expansion of the valve
Giorgio I do believe that all cams are slightly uneven to produce a rotation of the valves, that way they wear down evenly.
I was under the assumption a compression release is centrifugal. At least the automatic release in a Honda Clone engine is that way.
I think the engine you have from the 1980s is using a better compression release than the one from the 1960s. But a way to test would be to take a look at the camshaft and see if there is extra gadgetry besides the cam lobes and timing gear.
Your exhaust valve maybe has carbon buildup preventing full closure. I would take the cylinder head off and inspect the valve seats for detritus.
cody, thanks for tips, the cylinder hat is open since 2 days, there was really not much carbon incrustation on the head, piston , and exhaust valve, so i think the motor has worked not so much, the distance of the intake valve is perfect at 0,25 mm between valve shaft and pusher rod and the exhaust valve has has nearly no distance, so i thought on a error of manufacturing.
the same work - distancing the valves of the briggs motor 5hp on my stationary chargas unit - i have done about two years ago, so this is not completely new for me…
in my stock i have a identic briggs engine with 8hp, i have opened this morning the valve chamber to see what is there with the exhaust valve…booth valves have a bit less distance as correct because of slightly consume, but booth are open the distance split clearly…
i think really for a manufactury error…fortunately the machine on what the motor was running was a snow broom, so runs only in cold season and hopely therefore the valve becomes not so hot, because of colder cooling air…
right your observation of rotation of the valves for evenly consuming, this i have also observed…
i like the old briggs engines, seems they are very robust…when i found a interesting motor on a internet page for used stuff, my son concentrates mentally how much is the life expectation or consume in a scale from 0 to 100 % …the actually he found the motor has 30 to 40 % lifespan working time, without knowing before it was from a snow groom…a bit a mysterical method, but he has also done with chicken eggs for breeding in way not to get too much cocks, but more hens…he finds also water in the ground, we made a 8 m deep well and the water was there, exactly deep how he says…so i hope also with engines it works!
you probably need to remove the cylinder head. There may be an issue where the valve seat wore down too much or possibly the valve itself is bad.
Here is the check chart in both english and metric units for what the specs are supposed to be.
Check Chart common_specs_metric_all BRIGGS & STRATTON_engines-1.pdf (166.2 KB)
Check Chart common_specs_english_all BRIGGS & STRATTON_engines.pdf (165.9 KB)
He has already removed the head and checked up there.
Just take out the exhaust valve and grind the tip of the stem until you have the right clearance. Put the valve in without the spring and, using valve lapping compound (dust from the grinding wheel) lap the valve against the seat until it’s tight again. Then reassemble everything.
re-setting motorhead (not motor hat!) bolts with provisoric equipment …using a spring balance
Method to bring back a diaphragm that’s hardened up. DOT3 or 4 brake fluid and let it soak for a few days to a week. A bit of a temporary fix and doesn’t permanently restore it.
Not to bring down this, but i’ve tried alot of different methods to soften those diaphragms, brake fluid works 1 time out of 20, i guess it depends of what type of gasoline they had been “preserved” in, ethanol gas is often no idea to even try.
Boil them in glycerine/glycerol (translation?) 20 minutes, with one drop of “seal saver” works 1 out of 10, it’s also good to soften up old rubber parts.
