Thats so cool! Never thod of that… did it deminish at all later on?
That looks like it might run an absorption fridge. Can you share plans? other info?
Rindert
To try to answer some of the above questions, I’ll have to admit that this video was 10 years ago and I can’t remember what I had for breakfast this morning. I did not have a mantle so I let it burn for a few minutes- maybe 5 or so - and then put it away. After hearing your questions, I really should try this again - maybe make a few improvements if I can think of some - and see how it goes. I don’t have plans because it is so simple with just a tank and a nipple/nozzle hole and a chimney pipe. I siliconed an old pressuer cooker lid to the top for a sealabe fill cover. If any of you guys want to play with this idea, you are more than welcome to try it too.
Oh that is an easy one. Even =I= know that one! Colored quail eggs of course.
Yep, that looks like I did it except for the insulation.
I just thought the insulation would increase the draft.
Rindert
The insulation would be good also for carrying it, if one uses it for a lamp.
A little like this kerosene mantle-lamp?
I realy like how this is going. Hope someone start experimenting. I wuld but lm too buissy at the moment.
This might also be a good way to use brands, the extra calories by tary gases wuld be handy and if the fire goes out smoke will start to come out. Just thinking out loud
I have never seen a lantern mantle that wasn’t hanging down. I’m wondering if it would survive if it drooped down or got wind blown. Perhaps a metal mesh mantle could be fabricated.
The mantles for Aladdin lamps are held up with a wire support.
(photo gratefully borrowed from Lehmans)
Primus uses a perforated tube that supports the mantle. Here’s a video:
You might be able to make a larger version of a tubular mantle holder like Primus uses, sized up for mantles for a Coleman-type lantern, or a bit bigger yet for mantles for a kerosene lantern like a Petromax. Amazon has more mantles than you would ever want to choose from. You would need a combustion air inlet somewhere before the mantle.
Edit:
Here’s an Amazon ad (no recommendation, just helpful photos) for a Primus knock-off by Coleman. It shows how the mantle is attached much more clearly:
https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Adjustable-Brightness-Tailgating-Emergencies/dp/B0009PUR54
I think I might start using this oil in my woodgas engines. This oil says it’s formulated for Gasoline, Diesel, and Natural Gas.
18 dollars for a gallon jug, not terrible.
That is a good price. Summer oil.
I paid $23/gallon for the Rotella T6 5w-40. Winter oil.
I like it, 40min of block heater and no ether, and the engine just starts!
It’s got me so excited, I got out a 6.2l diesel for resurrection.
I think you are smart to use oil that at least says it’s for natural gas engines. It might be less likely to jell. @JocundJake and @Norman89 seem to have had trouble with oil jelling.
Rindert
Back in about 1970 or so I needed a disk sander but didn’t want to buy one so I made my own from an old washing machine motor, some scrap steel and some 3/4" plywood:
Pete Stanaitis
hello pete, good to see you here again…i have a question to you as an expert in smith working…
i have a fork for horse manure, the kind with a lot of fork fingers… some of them are bended, what is a bit boaring while working with it…
is it possible to bend back singular fork fingers with a gas flame carefully till i can bend it…or i loose the tempering-hardening in this way?
ciao and thanks giorgio
While this information is intended for machinists. It is kind of a nice overview of the major types of stainless steel available and their differences.
I am not an expert at anything.
I just located my own very old 10- tine manure fork… It had 3 slightly bent tines. A sharp file was able to cut into the tines, so I know that they are not even close to “glass hard”.
I heated a 3 inch portion of one of the tines with my oxy-propane rosebud torch to a medium red glow in a dark room, and bent it to match the other tines with no problems. Same with the other two. I allowed the tines to cool in still air. (Did not try to water cool them).
I took the manure fork out to a pile of wet road (limestone) gravel and shoveled several scoops. Nothing broke off. My guess is that the steel for the tines is something like SAE 1045.
I hope this helps.