I have never had the problem after the first time and that time was only after a few day of hard driving running a lot of soaking wet wood. I just keep the oil changed every 3000 miles ( I don’t run synthetics ). I just do local travel with dry wood so it isn’t a problem.
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my wife made me a big surprise…found this stuff on a flee market, seems mechanical stuff…
she thought it can be useful for us…
but what is it?? this is not the summer quiz, i dont know what it is good for…
maybee for pressing out bearings??
who can help?
thanks giorgio
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It is for removing ball joints on vehicles, they’re a Must-Have for most cars and trucks. Make sure to grease the threads.
You could maybe use this for pressing some bearings.
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It looks like the harbor freight kit.
I did use the insert stack to press in and out bearings with the shop press, which probably isn’t recommended. 
Oh and it works good for ball joints too…
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Hi Kristijan,
I have almost completed this gasifier, for an absorption fridge. Can you tell me how I should make the holes for a flute nozzle?
Rindert
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Oh great! Got any pictures?
This will be draft powered yes? Like Don showed? If so you probably dont even need a flute as temps will be wery low. Other thain that l cant give advice before some more info
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Yesterday I tried it for the first time. It would make good gas for a minute or so after I used the blower but it would not sustain a flair. The whole tank was very warm, but it did not burn the paint.
I think I have to break the charcoal smaller.
Yesterday, the nozzle was just a simple pipe with an open end. But I have another nozzle that can become a flute. The end is welded closed. You can see three dots where holes could be.
I had some insulation on the outlet pipe. The idea was to encourage natural draft. But it didn’t seem to help.
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Needs more insulation 
Your access hatch/nozzle mount is a slick design!
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I might try adjusting airflow. You might have had too much air with the fan.
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Hmm this is uncharted territory. I belive one aditional problem might be ash. As there isnt any turbolence to rip off tha ash layr as the coals burn away they get coated with ash wich prevents them geting contact with air.
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Ha, ha, ha. When it was working, for just a minute, it was surging, like a candle or something like that. I was thinking, this is impossible, there is no engine! But harmonic vibration is everywhere. Maybe it will help us here.
Rindert
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Second try. I broke the charcoal smaller. It made a flare for just a little longer than before. It did not surge this time. It makes good gas for a short time after I blow air into it, but it does not continue. I think the hearth is cooling down too much. This makes me think I should put insulation inside. This makes me think everything I change makes it more and more like Koen’s updrafts. Maybe I will think differently tomorrow, when I am not tired. But right now I am thinking I should stop doing this and start a new project to make a Koen style gasifier.
Rindert
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You might also look at the kalle gasifiers again. Nothing against koen, i dont think you can go wrong with his either but one might be easier with what you already have.
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That’s a good tip!
(20 characters)
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The Kalle gasifier is a really clever design, but somewhat compicated. For simple, Koen has simplified about as much as you can. I couldn’t find the Kalle paper in the DOW Library, but sometimes I fail to see stuff. I did finally find it at bioenergylists.org. The first link they give goes nowhere, but farther down they show the real thing. It’s kind of a weird double url. Save yourself some time :
https://gasifiers.bioenergylists.org/sites/default/files/http_www.hotel_.ymex_.net_s-20222_gengas_kg_eng.pdf
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Another tool in the toolbox, 3d printed TPU gaskets. A couple of people on youtube have proven they can print a gasket out of TPU (Thermoplastic PolyUrethane) for the carburetors on their small engines. TPU seems to hold up as long as you don’t get it close to 200 degrees Celcius or over 392F.
They’re resistant to gasoline and oil, one guy kept a damaged print in a jar of gasoline for over a year to see if it would melt and it hasn’t.
I’m going to see how well this works for my square body and it’s going to double as a phenolic spacer. If it can survive the hot hot conditions of an air cooled engine I think it’ll be fine on a water cooled engine.
TPU is a rubbery material and is fairly flexible. I’m using TPU 95A, the number means it’s a Shore Hardness Scale A of 95 and that’s roughly as hard as a shopping cart wheel.
Incidentally because I’m having to make these gaskets in CAD I’m building up a library of different gasket flanges. I’ll be uploading these to Thingiverse where you could just use them as guides for cutting your own paper or cork gaskets.
If anyone has any requests PM me and I’ll try my best to copy it in CAD and upload it to Thingiverse. I’m also using these to make my own steel flanges to use as something to trace onto the metal. I’m bad at paper drafting but I sure am good at stencils and transfer punches.
I don’t think a TPU gasket could replace any spot that gets hotter than 150 Celsius, so it could work for an OHV cover in a small engine or a carburetor gasket. I like to stay as far away from the limit of a material because I have to consider longevity.
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thank you. I never thought about actually -printing- them, just cutting them from a sheet.
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Vinyl cutters, drag knife style, can be great for gaskets though the material will be about as thick as the consumer grade ones can handle. Best to use a new/sharp blade for gaskets.
My wife has a “Cricut” that doesn’t see that much use but some past projects she used it for came out amazingly well.
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Cricuts work great for a standard gasket, I’ve seen videos about that a lot.
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If you live where they have a Menard’s then Poulan Pro bar oil is on sale for seven dollars a gallon. It works fine for me.
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