Tools, Tips and Tricks

The triangle shape is so you can just index the safety razor at a 45 degree

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Why wouldn’t you just cut a V in the 2x4, and put a place for the blade at the bottom of the v, then it would work for all size hoses.

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I need some gaskets for my saw mill gasifier. The split tubing gave me an idea. I’m wondering if I split a piece of 3/8 air hose and fill it with RTV with some kind of cording in the middle would it stick to the hose or peel out when it was fully cured?

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RTV should bond to rubber, worth a shot.

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I was hoping that it wouldn’t bond to the rubber and would just come out as a silicone gasket. I guess I could push some plastic wrap in the channel first.

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Oh I thought you wanted it to stick to like, glue the hose to the surface.

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Check out this thread. It talks about the same thing you are thinking of trying.

I would have tried this on my gasifier, but I only found it after I finished.

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There is ‘release agent’ for silicon molds. it is used for casting silicone stuff probably available from michaels, joanns, hobby lobby, etc. Or just search for silicon mold making or casting. I forgot exactly what they use.

Then you can squirt the stuff into the slit, and tape it to clamp it with something cheap like masking tape, and trim it when it comes out. :slight_smile:

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I have seen the string alignment method, but I don’t think I have seen plates used like this for toe.

the quicktrip system uses a similar concept but they use square tube attached to the rim.

But that is 700 bucks. :slight_smile:

And if you are really cheap, and are just trying to get to the shop and don’t want to set up strings, or other tools. Apparently just a tape works to get the toe pretty close.

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Is it safe to assume a power steering rack is bad if about 3 tablespoons of oil came out of the inner tie rod boot?

The outers are bad, and i think causing most of the problem. the inners are kind of stiff but are starting to go. but power steering is flaky at low speeds on the car.

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this is what I’ve used for many years, quick and easy. TOE MEASURING GAUGE (46"-74") Tools and Equipment Wheel Alignment Tool | eBay

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I use the string method. I made a pair of low friction pads, to put under the front wheels, out a 2’x2’ piece of ‘linolium’ tile cut in four pieces. I put grease between two pieces of tile. Note: The rear end on my Ranger is 1-1/2" narrower than the front so I have put 3/4" pieces of wood between the string and the rear tires. This method works very well for me. Even if money were no object, it saves me time going to a shop.
Rindert

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Here’s how it may look like if you use the tape measure method, it’s more of gambling :smiley:


This is my chevy at the moment, i’ve got better tires for it, but hadn’t got the time to replace them.

Whats the real shame is: i have acess to good, four-wheel alignment equipment at work.
I’ve done a lot of training courses in wheel alignment, on both cars and big rig’s.

But i was in a hurry at the moment i did adjustment.
And: i AM lazy… :roll_eyes: :joy: :smiley:

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It is good enough to get you to the alignment shop. :slight_smile:

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I never drive far enough or fast enough to need aligned wheels anymore but if I did I’d pick up a couple of the cheap 30 dollar lasers. Some shoot horizontal and vertical lines so would do toe in as well.

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Apparently you can do it with a pair of HF laser levels. I am actually really surprised I haven’t found a cheap knock off camber/caster tool with the laser in it.

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This is how I attach the wooden beam to the lower oak beam

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I wanted a better look at that pounding devise. Was that an Adze and did you use it to hew those beams? I see your thumbs up and send it right back at you. :+1:

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Pics of my toe in checking method.
Rindert


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I ended up taking the car in to an actual mechanic after I realized, you have to loosen and support the subframe then still have to reach around and try to get 1-2 bolts that you can’t see. Not worth risking bodily damage when a lift is much safer. and I suspect it is very helpful to have someone to hold up the part and get the bolt started. So just the outer tie rods, the shocks and struts, the sway links and bushings got replaced.

Of those the sway bar bushings were the hardest. you need a 3/8" flex head (1/2 is too tall) and a regular wrench (the racheting kind are nice), because of space constraints. :slight_smile:

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