In the moment you can take a leaf or 2 chew it, and put it on burns and scrapes, not on open wounds for it will heal the top skin too fast and not let it heal down deep.
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THANKS for the Tips on home supply DIY burn fix, I looked on line about electric burns and not sure, but I thought it said don’t put sauve on it, though that leaf trick would probley help draw out any infection from the internal burn…THE blisters almost gone day 6- and I can use my finger lifting strength with out much hurt, so I GESS its healing fairly fast. THE burn is actually created from inside of finger, I think,anyway, and it felt like my whole finger tendent was locked up or froze like in center for about a good 3 inches long. seems I got light up worse this time than other 2 or 3 times over the years. first time I went to doctor, and he said it would heal on its own in about a week or 10 days. I think this shock will be 2 or three weeks before it is total back to no notice. I must have been grounded good when the hot mig wire went through my leather glove,into my finger, I might have beed using that hand too steady the mig torch handle,while welding.
You can see the hole the wire went through in the second
pic.
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I don’t know how or why it works but we have this Chinese burn balm that works amazingly well for superficial type cooking burns. I am a huge doubter of herbal stuff but it does the trick for both pain and healing.
I can’t check the label right now but it I think it’s “Ching wan hung” brand which is available from Amazon at least. Ours is in a squat tub with a green top. The balm itself is brown and has a funky medicinal smell. You don’t need much so one bottle is basically a lifetime supply at the rate we get burns.
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I googled electricle burns,blisters and it said don’t use sauve, though that sounds good for regular burns, this burn was from the electric current, from shorting the mig welder wire feed, at about 150 amps 30 DC volts, and maybe a few AC volts if and AC is trickling through my old welder DIODES. THE leaf method BOB menchined might be better in some cases,I USUALLY USE manuka honey, it seems to do the trick on normal burns or cuts, THOUGH I am all out of manuka honey, so I used some bee wax I had in the drawer. and it even cooled the blister heat feel. 9 DAYS it’s almost back to normal, as bad as they feel first 3 to 4 days,you would think your shocked area might need amputation, though in another4 to 5 days they seem to sort of slide back to normal. Still feel like blister on top 2 section of finger, about 1/8" deep, though it is able too lift much more weight,so tendon is mostly healed too.
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In my teen years I came across a free standing spot welder in an art studio after hours. I was all alone and didn’t realize what the tool was for. I thought it was supposed to manually dimple metal sheet. I brought the electrodes close together with the foot pedal before pinching them between my thumb and index finger. Then I pushed the pedal down all the way.
There was a buzz and quick sting between my fingers but fortunately I still had them attached. I looked to see what caused the pain and saw that I had vaporized a narrow line/channel across the top layer of skin on both sides where the current travelled.
Kids are stupid… including this one right here.
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IT don’t take much some times, with projects lined up in every direction, and just a frack of a side track, and boom, the arm came down before you realized what was happening.THAT surely had you thinking, maybe amputation, by all the swelling I bet you had.?
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I should clarify - my fingers were on either of the electrodes as they came together, not in between them. I was still bridging current but across the skin rather than through the full thickness of my fingers.
I was super lucky and the current only flowed on the top layer of skin. I walked out a little shaken but totally fine: no swelling or scarring even. Again - super lucky.
What did change is that I found new caution around unfamiliar tools!
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The battery in the opel goes up to 12.8 volts when charging, but immediately drops when I try to start to 10.3 volts, do you have any tips how I can fix the battery?
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Is it a flooded cell battery or a gel sealed battery?
If it is flooded cell and you have a stick welder that puts out Direct Current you can try to revive the battery by applying the welder for a very short burst at low amp setting. Take the vent caps off when doing so and top off the water if it is low.
I think you have a dead cell in the battery so it might not be repairable. I have the same problem with my Kubota it sits for long periods of time and goes through batteries.
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I’d install a master switch for something like that.
I put one on my lawnmower way back. That way i can cut the batt feed. It didnt have a parasitic draw, but i did have little kids that would crawl on and mess around, end up leaving they key on and I’d go to use it and find a dead battery.
Yes, i could have just pulled the keys. But chose not to for fear of misplacing them.
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Brother Pavel is restoring an older car (Mercedes 190 D), it is also necessary to change the brake pipes, he plans to install copper pipes, and I made an attachment for making sealing ends…
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tone, very interesting, can you show more detailed how you form the pipe end?
ciao giorgio
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Not to be a stick in the mud but i think we need to get marcus and/or Steve’s expert advice on these lines. I was also taught never to use copper on brakes. I believe something about bursting strength. Anyway hope im wrong but just dont wanna see anyone get hurt
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Hi Randy, i don’t know for the US, but in Europe it’s common to use copper brake lining for replacement, sold as approved for brake system, pretty thick walled, and stands a lot of bending. Mostly pure copper (98% some) or cu/ni alloy.
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Looking good Tone, fifth time right?
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Hello Giorgio, this is what it looks like:
I cut the pipe with a pipe cutter
placing the pipe in the bed
the tool is used to compress and reshape the pipe
this is the result
and it is a tool
Copper is very interesting, as far as the use of pipes for pressure loads is concerned, when the pipe is new it is soft to be transformed and twisted during assembly, but when it is twisted once and we want to straighten it again, it becomes very hard, it gains strength even when in the pipe experiences high pressure and wants to expand it.
This tube has an outer diameter of 5mm and an inner diameter of 3mm, it can definitely withstand pressure up to 500 Bar, much more than rubber reinforced tubes that are installed on wheels…
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Thanks guys, that why i said we needed somebody that knows. I think all our copper is for plumbing–water and gas. Any way thanks for clearing this up for me.
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Hi. Thanks for clearing that up
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We call it work hardening. Once you heat it back up to say about cherry red it softens right back up. But it might not work with brake lines if they have a plastic lining in them.
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A couple of weeks ago I was pulling my log splitter through the woods and must have ran over a branch that popped up and rammed the suction hose on the splitter and broke it. I got a replacement hose off Amazon and got the cheapest one they made. $11.50. When I screwed the clamp down it split the thin-assed hose where the wire coil ran through it. I checked against the old hose and it was about a quarter of the thickness. I just ordered a $25.00 one, after losing most of another 13 dollar a gallon of new hydro fluid. The moral of the story. You get what you pay for or cheap is usually more expensive in the end.
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