That’s the idea. Conceivably, a person could work a day job, then come home and fire something like this for about two hours. Heat stored in the thermal mass would heat the house through the night and into the next day. Actually, I want even more thermal storage but haven’t figured out how to make it happen yet.
There is an internal chimney, called a heat riser, that carries the exhaust up to within 4" of the inside of the brick arch. You see here that I’m using a 6" single walled galvanized duct tube as a flu. I can do that because by the time the exhaust glasses get to that point they are below 90F. And, after startup there is almost zero visible smoke. These features allow these heaters to use about 1/4 the fuel a conventional wood stove uses.
However, it seems you are not familiar with rocket mass heaters? I might recommend a solar furnace if you have a wall that is exposed to sunlight.
Rindert
This Kurt Mobert’s stove. I sure wish I had his masonry skills. Link
My RMH is more old school. It uses a 55 gallon barrel over the heat riser and dumps the heat into a 17 foot long bed before it exits. I’ve been using it in the greenhouse for 4 years now. If I were to start over I’d probably go with a batch type heater as well.
Yeah, I thought I remembered you talking about that. Why not make another RMH in your house? That’s gotta be easier than cutting 6 to 8 extra cords of wood every year.
I just like the one Mobert came up with because it uses less floor space.
Rindert
I have a too many square feet of space on two floors with a lot of glass and in floor hydronic heat. No way to change any of that now. I would like to move somewhere that had no more than 10 people or less, per squared mile though.
Cosmoline. A word I haven’t heard in many years. Back in the late 1960’s I worked in a motorcycle shop and we used to buy army surplus Harley D springer forks to rework for Choppers. They came packed in cosmoline.
shock in ith morning hour…opened a briggs engine i have bought last year…
it should soon do some work.
controlled the valve clearance, yet set by the factory…exhaust 0,2 mm, intake 0.4 mm !!!
but shocking was the cylinder wall…i guess this comes from lack of lubrification???
or piston rings broken??
who can say something about?
the motor but have a very good compression…
it was from a snow broom from `83and 11 hp…seems not has so much working hours
Giorgio, I am sad when I see this, but, among good purchases of used equipment, there is always some inferior piece, where it is necessary to restore the value with your own work or overcome the cost, let me say that such things happen to me often.
Such damage usually occurs when the upper piston ring is burned in the bearing, or it heats up so much and thus stretches that it begins to press with great force on the cylinder wall… this is when we say that the engine has seized.
This is not good Giorgio. Unless you can take that cylinder to a machine shop and have it resurfaced it will never lubricate well. I’m not sure how to find oversized rings for a small engine like that.
Bah… don’t over think it. That Briggs is 41 years old. It was designed to run 400hrs and be thrown away. One can see by looking at the piston crown, that this engine burned crankcase oil, and a lot of it. The previous owners didn’t check the crankcase oil level continually, and the engine ran out, seizing up. Tom and Tone are right.
There is no cure for this, nor does there need to be one. Simply, reassemble the engine, fill the crankcase with USED oil, and keep running it. Check the crankcase oil level EVERY time the engine is to be started. If you do this, the engine will provide good service. I guarantee something else will stop the use of whatever this engine powers. Example, the crappy muffler will make the engine sound so annoying that the engine won’t be left running.
I agree with Bruce, most engines like that are not economically repairable. But if you are GOING to do it anyway. Guilty party here. Then I recommend a micrometer cylinder hone. You will need to clean the stones. I found that an old Dr.Collins Perio toothbrush is the best.
Rindert
Hi All
Me; the Wife; and a for hire Handyman have been doing our main floor bathroom make-over.
The contractor lined up flaked on the job. We are far enough out it aways requires daily paid travel bonuses to get contractors out here.They then milk the jobs.
We took on a Foreign Exchange Student for the school year so tired of using her upstairs guest-suite shower while she’s away in-school.
So to save a 13 day wait for a professional plumber the Handyman and me have been doing the plumbing change overs.
My first experiences using PEX piping. Lot to learn there. Mistakes being the very best of teachers.
Here is a tip video that would have been helpful:
The handyman being 40-ish, younger, and more flexible had done all of the ABS drain and venting, and 3/4’ers of the under house pressure CPVC to new PEX tubing work.
I finished up. Then having to re-do a couple of his leaks.
YOU MUST chamfer all plastic cut ends!! Glued plastic sharp edged; or rough ends, will scrape the adhesives to the bottom of the socket. Only then tube/pipe seal glueing at just the end. You MUST quarter turn the fitting on assembly to distribute the adhesive glue. You MUST hold the assembled joints a minute or so to prevent creeping back out.
On single internal o-ring 'Shark-Bite" push-in fittings; the blade cutter sharp square tube end will cut/tear the o-ring’s a percentage of time.
Last learning tip is DYI using easy Pex-B with the internal fittings held by crimping bands: UP One Size; like say from 1/2" to 3/4" to get the expected flow from all of the internal reducing fittings.
I’ll be redoing while the wife’s gone on travel days some of the under floor exposed worked to get the flow back up to the old CPVC delivery.
Only Doing is learning well. You will then make the mistakes. Learning from these.
HOW many welders out there are as dumb as i am, I stuck a hot mig wire in my left finger for the 3rd time in my welding years, I think I must have been grounded good, my first finger swelled up nearly twice its normal size. DOC said just wait it out ,it should heal as the blisters, slowly go away.OUCH, 5 days later its getting less soar,and able too use it LITTLE more every day.Still soar and stiff but the blisters and numbness is going down, I think this shock will take closer to 2 weeks too get back near normal. THE only trick is too wait it out, as it heals it self–i did rub bee wax from a seal conditioner jug,and wrapped it with masking tape, seem to kool it down a little first 3 days.
Plantain’s anti-inflammatory properties aid repair of damaged tissue. Apply a whole plantain leaf directly to the burn as a poultice. Cough. Plantain soothes coughs for the same reasons it’s useful in combating bronchitis.Sep 1, 2020
I’m sure you have plantain growing around your place Kevin. I soak it in Aloe juice and wrap it over a burn but the aloe is not necessary to get good results from the plantain.
That weed for Burns?? Thanks, Tom! I learned something today. We don’t use weed killers on our farm-grade lawn, I don’t like herbicides. My lovely wife keeps buying weed N’ feed, and the bag sits there ignored.(Kills everything, including my bee’s white dutch clover.) Yes, lots of that Plantain stuff in the yard. Stays green when the grass is brown and dormant. Plantain | UMN Extension
Didn’t mean to stretch this into a whole topic but these kinds of plants are not available in the winter so they must be dried and stored preferably in a jar with an oxygen absorber. I use the aloe to mix the dried herb with and make a poultice to apply to the affected area.
