What did you use to thin it?
My tar comes out STIFF
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I think when we used to build wooden ships we used a lot of tar from charcoal making to preserve wood. In the US we call it creosote.
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Nothing at all, actually. We have temps in the low 90s right now and after an hour in the sun the can of tar was almost as thin as ordinary paint.
Right, we used to paint our wodden rowing boat with tar every spring when I was a kid. I remember we heated with a torch after daubing it on to make it sneak into every crack.
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Many times questions arise about wood , bamboo and it different proporties…
This link may shed some light. lab results from many different species…
Click and search, then enjoy
https://www.ecn.nl/phyllis2/Browse/Standard/ECN-Phyllis#bamboo
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Wow! That is a lot of valuable research data! Should answer some questions about which material has more or less of this and that. 
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I had a cheap Chinese chop saw that lasted ten years or so but it finally puked so I re-purposed the table and vise for a welding/holding/assembly table.
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Some nice link about the gasification chemistry
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I was able to use this mitre saw with a thin abrasive blade to make nice angled cuts to make this drain pipe. Make sure you clean the sawdust out of the machine first, or you will start a fire.
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How do get the nose of your mig welder in that tight spot between the barrel and the pipe?
Hi, Don!
21.8.2018
If no other local complications, heatglow – hammer – “trumpetize” the pipe-end first.
Sorry, I did not observe, that it was connected to Rindert’s “fastbent” application!
In this special case welding from inside the barrel would be easier, to the ready-made knee.
(mirror-welding)
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That must be the soup drain, nice job welding.
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I cheated. Fluxcore wire doesn’t need a gas sheild so was able to do about 2" stickout.
Nice! I’m going to go cut that little piece out and do that
Yup, chicken noodle.
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That is a tight space to weld, good job
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I would never have guess you did with flux welder, they do have some advantages over gas. Great job.
Bob
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Not woodgas related (unless you have a wood powered riding mower!) but I found this REALLY helpful today.
Ever tried to mount a tire and had trouble seating the bead? Here’s a neat trick.
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I have an old Chipper/Shredder/Vacuum from the 1970s. The tires were very bad; cracked, dry rotted, and everything else. I filled them with large gap filler foam from the building supply store near me. I had to explode some propane in them to get them to seat. Messy job, but they turned out alright.
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I scrapped an old treadmill and got a lot of good parts.
The deck makes a very good work table top.
I am using the incline motor and ACME screw for a foundry mold separator machine I’m building.
I am going to use the motor base plate, 3/16" steel, as a table for the foundry mold separator machine.
I got about 30lbs of good aluminum that I am going to melt and make things out of.
The main drive motor for the belt is huge and heavy, 3 horse power continuous, 3.9 peak. And it’s variable speed!!! I wish I had a milling machine to put it on. It might make a good driver for a wood chunker. But I already have a 1 horse power single phase motor for that.
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Take a look at Dave Gingery’s series of books, he has solid instructions on making a mill. I saw a scaled up blog of his lathe, worked well. His machine tools are largely based on cast aluminum…
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Thanks Garry, I’m an old fan of those books. And I do pour aluminum. I might end up doing as you say. But I have have my eye on an old Machinist Corp, made in Spain, at the place I used to work. Its going to be a heavy one to move, but thats the way good ones are.
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Rindert, I have one of those sitting in my basement for years. I am not technically inclined like you so there is will sit until my wife decides it has been long enough. I fine it hard to believe that belt drive motor is 3 horse. TomC
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