Bruce, the wish is for this damper to open the entry of wood gas into the engine as needed, similarly control the amount of diesel fuel, which I will limit, above in the dark I was already smart about it, but still did nothing 
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I was going to try a little with gengas on the tractor, where is it best to put the units and the filter, thought about putting the unit on the left side and the filter on the right, and walk around the front with the cooling pipes, suggestions?
Thought to try putting on a mixer right on the air intake on the hood and try with gas, would it work?
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Thatās a tough one with that loader Jan, but I think Iād still try and mount something in the front of the radiator maybe more like one of Kristijanās designs.
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Jan, you make our heads start spinning.
I canāt help looking at the exhaust manifold. Depends how much complexity youāre willing to add, but your original thinking would be nice, in order to keep the gasifier/heatex close to all that free heat. Iām thinking someting like a 3-part muffler/heatex. Exhaust and outgoing gas both heating the incoming air. With the cooler on the roof the heatex could reach all the way up there.
As usual- easier said then done 
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Talk about head spinning, my mind is doing loopy dos right now. Iām thinking on my Jeep build I can do some thing very similar. I am trying to keep all gasifer parts out from under the vehicle for higher ground clearance the Jeep has. Great thinking on this JO.
Bob
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Yes, it would also work Tom, I have only looked at the old pictures of tractors and they had the units on the side.
JO, I got hold of Benās book about gengas, have read a bit in it, how much do you think the heat does?
Seems to him that it reduces wood consumption, but does not do so much on the gas, if I have understood it correctly?
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Jan, from what I understand the most important factor (since we donāt worry too much about wood consumption) is keeping the heat up during low power operation. In other words - mimimizing risk of making tary gas. Also, less air drawn in to keep gas production going means less nitrogen. In other words - richer gas and more power.
Heatexchangers, insulation, hopper condensation or fuel heating or super dry wood - they all contribute. We can pick and choose our personal favorites. Whatever is the easiest for you. No one manage to focus on all of them at the same time. Not practical if we put so much effort into perfection that thereās no time left for driving
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Itās a tractor so no reason to burn wood. You will not be out traveling with it so you will always have access to a supply of Charcoal. Updraft Charcoal would greatly simplify things.
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Yes, itās strange, when I worked as a designer, I tried to find out where the faults in our products arose, it was often in places that I could not imagine.
I think there should be tests on whether preheating the air makes such a big difference, what I have tested on my car, I see no noticeable difference, but I also do not know what heat increase I got.
However, I have had a stop in the water pipe from the wood container, a few times, it gives a big deterioration.
Preheating the wood, is also something that there are different opinions about, in my old books they say it gives a deterioration of the gas.
Is there anyone who has found tests on the various improvements, so I would see figures on how the gas changes?
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I think what they mean is heating the fuel will create a lot of steam - like tring to dry wood in a plastic bag. I think in order to benefit from it you would need equal amount of hopper condensation ability.
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If I remember correctly, they compare it to the gas getting worse in an upward charcoal gasifier, I do not understand what happens.
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Probably same thing. All the fuel heated at once by the outgoing gas and any moisture trapped in the char steamed off.
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Hej Jan!
Ive noticed that i get a lot of condensation in my updraft charcoal gasifier sometimes. Most often when the charcoal has been stored outside in my shed. I have to run the fan several minutes longer than ususal before i can start the engine.
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Thanks, then I learned something today too.
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Tone, can you help me understand, what does the throttle really do on my mf35a?
Does it control anything other than the fuel?
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Pozdrav Jan , pri tvojem diesel traktorju , kakor tudi pri veÄini diesel motorjih se vstopajo v zrak ne duÅ”i , tako motor zajame vedno polno koliÄino zraka , katero stisne na visok tlak , ob tem pa tudi temperatura zelo naraste (preko 400Ā°C), kar je tudi pogoj za vžig diesel goriva. S koliÄino vbrizganega goriva se regulira moÄ motorja. Torej , osnovna razlika med dizelskim motorjem in Otto motorjem je , da je potrebno pri Otto postopku nenehno vzdrževati gorljivo meÅ”ano razmerje med gorivom in zrakom , tako lahko dobimo vžig ob elektriÄnem iskri , pri dizelskem postopku , pa motor veÄinoma deluje s presežkom zraka , za vžig pa ni potebne iskre , saj se razprÅ”eno diesel gorivo vžge zaradi visoke temperature stisnjenega zraka.
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OK, I tested today to put the engine on idle, and then give it gengas, but it does not increase the speed of the engine?
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The speed controller is a very sensitive and fast device that reacts in a split second and changes the amount of fuel injected, so the engine maintains the speed of rotation, if you try to increase the amount of wood gas, you will notice blue smoke in the exhaust and restless engine operation, idling. diesel engine with the addition of wood gas is ungrateful to test, another story is the loaded engine.
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The regulator, will it affect the motor, at gengas?
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