There are plans on the interwebs for a roller, but the best way I have seen to get it circular without the tools is to bend it against a pipe (or something round) first a little bit at a time, going over it a couple of times, but he was using lighter gauge material. Then you could use the bands to get the last bit of round and into the right position.
I wonder if you could get away with like a pseudo roller, like a pipe with wood (abs plastic might work better, you can remelt it then shape it) disks every like 6-12". screw the metal to the disks at least on each end and turn it about 1/2" at a time and beat on it with a hammer. Or the same concept, but use a square pipe to hold the disks in place, then add a lever and a height adjustment, then clamp it to the end of the workbench, or something more or less square, and adjust the height down for multiple turns. You could add a roller instead of the bench edge, etc. But I was just thinking of storage space constraints. Then you would have mostly round that you could finish up with the bands. You might be able to adjustable to do cones as well since you can replace the disks.
Yes, the biggest difficulty is that it becomes quite wide, and thus very heavy to bend. I’ve gotten to it somewhat, but probably need to work a little more on both inner and outer tubes.
Hmm, 200 might be a bit big. Depends of the size of your wood, ofcorse.
My Mercedes had 2.3l engine and a 180mm nozzle circle, and drove best at 1700 rpm. Thats comparable to your situation. However, for my Mercedes this was cruiseing power, and for you its preety much max power.
But hey, just make the nozzles threaded! You can easyly change them with longer ones.
Welding. Im all for that. I weld EVERYTHING. But after the hearth. You might need to replace some things. If its all welded, its harder. Also, the parts inside go trugh incredible heat stress. Its best if they can move and breath a bit.
If you are good at searching the site I think MattR had some kind of fairly simple tool he made for making curved plates way back on his Thrive on Wood Thread.
Hi Jan,
Here is a good method my friend, who is a welder, taught me. If you use an anvil that is only a little smaller than the inside of your pipe you can make it almost perfect.
Rindert
What is the difference between a direct injection engine and antechamber injection?
The direct injection engine has slightly better thermal efficiency due to the smaller areas of the combustion chamber and lower friction losses caused by the flow of gases into the atria. However, direct injection requires very finely dispersed fuel injection, but this is not so important when injecting into the atria, as the fuel is partially gasified on hot surfaces of the atria and then burns completely in the cylinder. air
What does the diameter of the fire tube really mean?
Does it matter if it is 250, 300 or 350mm (10,12 or 14 ")?
Is it just the diameter between the nozzles that matters?
The gasifier for my tractor will have a diameter between the upper nozzles of 350 - 400 mm and between the lower nozzles of about 150 mm , … at the moment I am of the opinion that the lower ones will always be active as they are closer to the restriction opening where the vacuum is higher, and the upper ones will start to let air in when the load is higher, they will also take care of any bridging. I don’t expect wood chips to stick , as the walls of the hopper will be heated with gas and insulated outside, so the tar can stay liquid and the fuel doesn’t stick, at least that’s what I’ve noticed with this gasifier I’m using. The condensation zone will only be in the upper part where all the steam rises, if necessary I will cool this part with an electric fan.