Tractor with gas?

There are plans on the interwebs for a roller, but the best way I have seen to get it circular without the tools is to bend it against a pipe (or something round) first a little bit at a time, going over it a couple of times, but he was using lighter gauge material. Then you could use the bands to get the last bit of round and into the right position.

I wonder if you could get away with like a pseudo roller, like a pipe with wood (abs plastic might work better, you can remelt it then shape it) disks every like 6-12". screw the metal to the disks at least on each end and turn it about 1/2" at a time and beat on it with a hammer. Or the same concept, but use a square pipe to hold the disks in place, then add a lever and a height adjustment, then clamp it to the end of the workbench, or something more or less square, and adjust the height down for multiple turns. You could add a roller instead of the bench edge, etc. But I was just thinking of storage space constraints. Then you would have mostly round that you could finish up with the bands. You might be able to adjustable to do cones as well since you can replace the disks.

I don’t know, might be a dumb idea too.

2 Likes

You dont want to know :grin:

What Bob sayd.

Looks good but whats the nozzle circle radius? Distance from one nozzle to the opposite one

2 Likes

Yes, the biggest difficulty is that it becomes quite wide, and thus very heavy to bend. I’ve gotten to it somewhat, but probably need to work a little more on both inner and outer tubes.

8 Likes

That is why I was thinking you might need a lever of some sort. You are almost making me feel bad, I can’t get thinner material that round. :laughing:

2 Likes

I thought about 200mm in diameter, yes, I’m probably trying to make a plate, instead of the cone, but should I not weld it in the tube?

1 Like

Hmm, 200 might be a bit big. Depends of the size of your wood, ofcorse.

My Mercedes had 2.3l engine and a 180mm nozzle circle, and drove best at 1700 rpm. Thats comparable to your situation. However, for my Mercedes this was cruiseing power, and for you its preety much max power.

But hey, just make the nozzles threaded! You can easyly change them with longer ones.

Welding. Im all for that. I weld EVERYTHING. But after the hearth. You might need to replace some things. If its all welded, its harder. Also, the parts inside go trugh incredible heat stress. Its best if they can move and breath a bit.

7 Likes

If you are good at searching the site I think MattR had some kind of fairly simple tool he made for making curved plates way back on his Thrive on Wood Thread.

5 Likes

Like Kristijan said, what I did for my upcoming gasifier is I cut a hole in my tank hearth for the restriction to rest in.

You could weld in a heavy shelf to the tube and make a restriction plate that will seal with the ash.

Also I feel your pain with rolling sheet. I weighed getting a generator or a heavy duty slip roller with my Tax Return and opted for the Generator.

3 Likes

Hi Jan,
Here is a good method my friend, who is a welder, taught me. If you use an anvil that is only a little smaller than the inside of your pipe you can make it almost perfect.
Rindert

7 Likes

Yes, I was looking for something like that, but where can I find something that is 12 “and 17” round, and hard enough?

3 Likes

@Tone , is your engine a Pre-chamber diesel or directly injected?

3 Likes

Pre-chamber diesel ,…

3 Likes

Thanks Tone, I started to worry that mine would not be so good, read in the new book last night.

4 Likes

Yes, in the books I read direct is preferred but Tone has good result with prechamber?

3 Likes

Yes, it says so in my book too, but as usual it is not right all the time, I will test my tractor again with the unit on the car.

4 Likes

What is the difference between a direct injection engine and antechamber injection?
The direct injection engine has slightly better thermal efficiency due to the smaller areas of the combustion chamber and lower friction losses caused by the flow of gases into the atria. However, direct injection requires very finely dispersed fuel injection, but this is not so important when injecting into the atria, as the fuel is partially gasified on hot surfaces of the atria and then burns completely in the cylinder. air

5 Likes

What does the diameter of the fire tube really mean?
Does it matter if it is 250, 300 or 350mm (10,12 or 14 ")?
Is it just the diameter between the nozzles that matters?

5 Likes

Jan, yes. The place behind the nozzles gets burryed with ash and charcoal. The nozzle circle is the only important measurment

6 Likes

The gasifier for my tractor will have a diameter between the upper nozzles of 350 - 400 mm and between the lower nozzles of about 150 mm , … at the moment I am of the opinion that the lower ones will always be active as they are closer to the restriction opening where the vacuum is higher, and the upper ones will start to let air in when the load is higher, they will also take care of any bridging. I don’t expect wood chips to stick , as the walls of the hopper will be heated with gas and insulated outside, so the tar can stay liquid and the fuel doesn’t stick, at least that’s what I’ve noticed with this gasifier I’m using. The condensation zone will only be in the upper part where all the steam rises, if necessary I will cool this part with an electric fan.

8 Likes

How do you usually make the grate, and do you usually have it movable or fixed?

4 Likes