I was thinking an old Ford N model would work great with this. Or an old case, we had one with a crankstart for many years.
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Ok, what if I had someone welding this together now.
Do you have any comments on this before I start welding?
Do not be shy, I would rather take it now than after welding it together.
It is 3 “to the bottom from the grate, and 3” from the grate to the fire tube.
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Jan, is the purpose of the grate for the gases to pass trugh or just hold che charcoal? If its a pass trugh kind of grate, l think you went unessesery high. You may experiance plugging in the reduction zone.
Some say the volume of active reduction charcoal shuld be about one third of the volume of the oxidation zone. I personaly like to make it a bit biger, say one to one. So from restriction to the bottom of firetube you can go 120mm, then maybee a inch of gap and then the grate.
The gasifier will work for sure even as you showed it. Its just that sometimes having too mug of a char reserve under the restriction does more harm thain good
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Jan, when do you manage to do all this, … 
otherwise Kristjan explains the construction details as a professor.
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Jan, I think if it was me, instead of welding that floor into the middle of the firetube, I would weld a thinner flange at the bottom. Then you could experiment with brake drums, slices of tubing or whatever to raise the restriction.
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Yes, what JO said. The ash will seal everything up around the restriction opening on down. Now you can fine tune the gasifier for the engine out put and your needs. If you use the gasifier later on. It can be retuned for another engine. Gasifier builds need to be flexible.
Bob
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OK, I have looked in my Swedish books and they always have 4 "between the fire pipe and the grate, but at the same time they say that the gas is ready when it leaves the fire pipe.
I have about 2 "between the fire pipe and the grate in the S10 and feel that I have too little space there, it goes quite hot?
Ok, try with 125mm instead of 165mm, seems to fit better, after I took down the fire tube to 300mm.
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I keep it simple Tone, so it does not take that long time. 
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Will there be too little difference in diameter between the fire pipe and the wood tank, if you think about condensing out the water, the fire pipe is 12 “and the wood tank a little over 14”?
I could put in a perforated tube that is about 13 ".
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Maybe raise the lower gutter some.
Transition will be tricky though.
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You know that I am worried that the gas wears on the engine, in the new book I bought, the State Machine Engineer 1951-1962 has done research on the wear,
Here they compare 3 diesel engines, the wear in the end position of the cylinder can be seen in this picture, all driven 1000 hours, tractor no. 01 on pure diesel has a wear of 0.016 mm (0.000629921 inch) on diesel gas is worn 0.05mm (0.0019685 inch) if it do something I do not know, but it’s not just there it wears off the gengas.
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We have also talked about how good it is to insulate the wood container, they have also tested it, there is quite a big difference between not insulating and insulating, how much water is condensed, an uninsulated wood container condenses much more water.
If you look at the 7th column, it is isolated at the top and uninsulated at the bottom. the values are in% of wood consumption.
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hello jan, somewhere in the forum i have read a post from wayne keith, when i remember right, that he sees no difference in wearing out the engine, with correct filtering of course…
ask him, he has long experience…
further, if all the data is true, is a good question…after war 2 the petrol fuel flows again, and the petrol companies were- and are also now- interested to stop fuel independency by woodgas…
in germany in the war time people were costricted by the government to change on woodgas, and after the war, very soon, you need a special license to be allowed to drive a woodgas vehicle, and also the woodfuel was regulated…this laws has a big smell of petrol companies behind, also laws at sweden, that only cars til a certain bulding year are allowed to be driven on woodfuel…this cars with time will extinguish of course and are with a while not more to find…
for to be really independent, especially in our time, would be the best to modyfie the diesel on spark ignition to avoid the ignition diesel fuel…furthermore should the engine be to crank by hand, and have iron wheels…all not easy to make but a dream of strong independency…motor oil is to stock a good quantity , to be crisis resistant…
ciao giorgio
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Hi Giorgio.
I’ve talked to Wayne, and as you say he’s not noticed any wear-
However, I do not know if anyone has done such an investigation on the engines as the Swedish State Machine Engineer 1951-1962 has done.
in my old books it also says that the wear was greater on gengas than on petrol during the war, so that is probably true.
I have a 1995a cheva that is inspected and legal according to Swedish law, and the guy who inspected my car said that it did not matter what year model of car I had.
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Was there something like this that you thought I should do with restriction?
Now I can change the height of the cone, and thus the height of the restriction.
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Excellent 
+20 characters
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What JO sayd. This will serve you well.
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Yes, yes, there was a lot of water left in the bottom after the leak test, but it apparently did not matter, it burns anyway.
But the lid could not be used, I have to wait for more cutting discs so I can make a new one.
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Congratulations Jan. As soon as the water steams off, the tractor will be happy burning that gas.
What did you use for a blower? Vacuum cleaner pushing?
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