Goren I like the tick, tick of the safety valves. Let’s me hear the rate of gas usage.
I think any pulsations made here are more beneficial for in hearth ash clearing.
I have ran gasifers with, and without on the same engine generator. I do not believe I saw a difference in a single cylinder engine performance from this factor.
Others may have different, valid experiences.
S.U.
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unfortunately there just is no woodgaser folks of old that may have played these long end game runabout testing as have so many generations of hot rod culture guys. I’m sure in possibly 20’s, 30’s, 40’s there were some that really went full bore inventor in trying to design a engine that would optimize on wood/ char gas, but long dead gone and forgotten. The knowledge they would have had if given todays time materials and technology probably could have found a get around for the pulsation that plagues the single cylinder life.
To my last comment, I might add that finding that happy place of rpm use where a given single cylinder has overcome the pulsation and can have a equal enough draw through a gasfier system to maintain maybe not peak power, but peak efficiency given the fuel we use, then factors in engine longevity. Is the engine going to last a reasonable service life at that rpm? Is it oiling correctly? Cooling well enough? Todays standard of small engine life span I don’t know if in a long run it would be cost effective. These engines yall got on the other side of the pond still, we have very few of here. The consumer lifestyle of its broke junk it pay with plastic for the latest and greatest in advertisement wowee shinny sparkle just x payments of blank 99!
Grumble grumble says I… lost to the scrap yards, melted down into new Hyundai fenders. Shame shame. Enginering that was meant to last the test of time thrown out too noisy, not fuel efficient. The death of the small engine repair man not helping, few and far between they are and hard up to find the work to keep a living going with dirt cheap alternatives new and “better”
A existing engine can only be changed so much, and many unknowns of how it will effect the woodgas use. I’m sure some things can be swapped over from liquid fuels usage, we have proven timing and compression both have a drastic change for our purposes. Cylinder fill another obvious one since we always must take into account vacuum readings and resistance to flow through the system slowing flow and less cylinder fill resulting in less power. But the single cylinder struggle…the pulsation, I’m not sure it could be engineered within the engine to be gotten rid of, the valve must simply close to complete compression and ignition, the momentary stop in flow is unavoidable. Back pressure resulting.
Maybe Tony’s perspective here is best seen as a more efficient cylinder fill with tuning of exhaust port size, helping to draw out the spent gasses and draw in more new for next engine cycle. But what to do on the fuel delivery side. better brains then mine can work with this.
The simple answer, more cylinders more overlap, compensated pulsation by additional cylinders pulling pushing thins along. Kind of steps on the toes of newcomers wanting to test on lawn mower and such, they wont see the same result as a multi cylinder application and must overcome this learning curve of single cylinder use. But to this I cant speak only running my chunker a few moments on wood as my only single cylinder use, and through several variables I was not aware of not seeing the power I needed for the application. Hmmmm wish I had more experience to fall back on for this conversation.
But for my intended uses, it in some ways affirms my previous assumptions, I need a good size genny with multiple cylinders for ease of use, leaning on my multi cylinder learned knowledge as of right now till I can delve into single cylinder use more and start that other 75%
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Friends, I am happy for this discussion, but I can present you my view on filling the engine, namely I intend to sacrifice some pressure, I also used this logic with the propane mixer. The propane is indeed under pressure, but the pressure regulator behind the vaporizer is underpressure, which means that the engine must create a slight underpressure for the diaphragm to let the gas into the mixer, here it is so easy to maintain the mixing ratio in all operating conditions. When preparing a mixture with wood gas, I will try something similar, the mixer will shut off the gas and air when it stops, but when the engine starts to suck, it creates some negative pressure, which overcomes the spring force and the gas enters the suction channel, and at the same time, the amount of gas must determine the amount of air. If I were to use the idea here that I tested on the propane mixer, I would have to equalize the air and gas pressure in front of the mixer. We all know that gas pressure can change from positive pressure to negative pressure, which we cannot influence, but we can influence the pressure, or negative pressure of the air. Well, the pressure loss would be a maximum of 0.05 bar or 5%, which is not much if we get a quality combustible mixture in the engine with high compression.
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The main question I have is why are you guys so much smarter than me? Was I dropped on my head as an infant? Impressive analyses by all.
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Someone wrote that he makes and welds a gasifier (JO) while he sleeps, but when he wakes up, he is disappointed, but I dreamed of the construction of a mixer, … 
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Some details: - the conical element in the middle slides along a thin axis, the spring pushes it into the seat and thus closes the gas inflow in the middle and at the same time the smaller holes for air intake in the conical seat - the pressure, or vacuum from the gas opening is transferred to a small membrane that dampens the air flow, greater vacuum - greater damping, maybe I would add a small spring here to help the membrane, this is how I would adjust and change the ratio,…
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Tone, have you looked at vacuum automixers? They are not ideal but you may get some ideas for your automixer.
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I think you will be testing a lot of different spring tensions to find just the right one and it will probably be different on different engines so I would make that housing easy to separate.
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I think it won’t be difficult for Tone to find a correct spring because he already did this with his propane mixer see Gas “carbourator”.
My question is about the mass of the conical element. If there is a bump in the road will the conical element move and create a bad mixture? Perhaps we should make a very low mass conical element out of thin aluminum?
Rindert
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I just can’t see where your going with that
Very simple Wallace,
The real IC engines guys who are maintaining, modifying for thousands of hours of service lifes are the only ones you want to follow.
As they are the only ones who have a relevance to pay-back when bought new and then worked.
Gotten used; restored, then dependably worked.
All else is shallow fluff.
Grandstanding. Noise made by burning up Dollars. Yen, Marks, Pounds, Euro’s.
Real results is measured by hours-worked per every hundred dollars, yen, marks, marks, pounds, Euros spent-out.
Landed fish . . . or cut bait . . . or gut, clean and descale. Don’t watch. Do.
Opt out of the either Entertain; or be Entertained; culture crappola.
Ha! Ha! Last weekend still in heat-days and wildfire smoke I ran max loaded 9500 generator fuel-time testing. 5 miles away I could hear at the old logging rail end concreate sorting yard RaceTrack the fellows were circuit tracing their highly modifieds mostly rice-banger trailered in machines.
Previous weekend it was the 8 miles away the Riverside sand-drags having at it in the volcanic ash sand. I was doing my generator’s unloaded hours to run baseline testing back then.
And mine will operate at out to least 1500 hours service life, aluminum block, cylinder head,
and connecting rod and all. Thiers? Weekend warriors. 10’s of hours. Maybe a few hundred hours before rebuilding on those engines. B.F.D.
One activity has relevance to woodgas for IC engine fueling.
The other . . . .pisstoch as far as DIY woodgasing is concerned.
Steve unruh
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Hi Tone , I had a check valve on my truck like what you are planning on building. It got stuck up with soot and tar. Yes it was placed before my hay filter and it used for flaring the gasifier only. I finally could not get it to operate properly so I replaced it with a 2" gate valve. It did work great for a long time and I used hot water to try to keep it cleaned out.
Yours should be okay up by the engine intake. But I would make it a clean able take a part mixing devise. My was not.
I do have a auto mixer on my truck engine and every part can be removed and cleaned or taken a part for repairs. Mine works great keeping my gas to air ratio blanced when excelerating or stopping and idling.
Bob
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You are absolutely right Mr Steve. High performance is for hobbyists. Anybody that looks at the tach on their vehicle will see it does all it’s work between a thousand and four thousand RPM and the high end is only momentary acceleration. The performance a person gets from engines built to operate most efficiently at higher RPM-HP ranges will almost always be deter-mental to engines running at normal RpM-torque ranges.
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Myopic… And I used to build race engines…
I cant see where your going with that…
Joke man!!!
Pretty sure I have said that before.
I’ve even made point about what engines are best suited to this application and what hodrod parts might and might not be of interest with regards to clones.
And I also build race engines ( leaving that door open a touch in case we start racing wood gas karts or something )
woodgas tractor racing!!!
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In the 2 wheel tractor races I think I know who is going to win the towing test and the hill climb…@Tone
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Absolutely no joke…
Woodgas racing is a sport that deserves to be revived.
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The toyota needs rear end gears for that endeavor…
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Thank you Marcus for betting on me, I will try to get you a bet, but the competition is strong in the 500cc group.
As I announced, I will try to achieve 5kW load at 2000 rpm first.
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