Thank you too for being one of the best!
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Very clear and reasonable explanation, Tone! I believe youāre spot on.
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Hi Tone, i say it too, you are definitively one of the best! 
Something i base this saying on is, something all know here, and are affraid off: hot leaks, letting air in after restriction. 
You do it by purpose! Introducing air in the āforbiddenā zone via a nozzle! And came up with a very well functioning gasifier!
That proves new, innovative thinking, George Christian Imbert should have been impressed.
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tone, with the sheep wool in the filterā¦is this a new design or just tried out?
what reasons lead you to use sheep wool? the wool is very fat- greasy normallyā¦
ciao giorgio
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Yes Goran, exactly my thoughts when Tone revieled his plans. I decided to shut up, thinking of his LPG carburetor. If you can build something like that you are really cleaver. 
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Thanks for sharing Tone. And carefull with the firecrackers tonight.
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Giorgio, I used sheepās wool for the first time now, it is greasy, but I donāt think it can harm the engine, otherwise it is so greasy, composed of millions of fibers, it catches all microparticles of dust, even water droplets are caught, but then they drain to the bottom of the container. Thatās what I think, well, time will tell if Iām wrong.
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Goran, thank you for the kind words, I will try to briefly express my thoughts again. If you imagine a coal gasifier with a transverse draft and change it to a round shape, where the generated gases are withdrawn transversely to all sides through a vertical grate, which is both a heat exchanger and an air preheater, the design of the lower part is created. I think that a coal gasifier made in this way, where the air intake would be at the top in the WK tube and descend through the hollow grate towards the middle nozzle, would work almost perfectly, ā¦
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Here is a sketch of a charcoal gasifier, above is a water heating chute, which creates a moist atmosphere for hydrogen formation and also prevents the hot area from overheating.
After changing the oil and the restriction opening, the tractor has worked for approx. 10 working hours, the gas is very strong, the setting of the air damper should be more open for more air, there is less resistance through the gasifier. I used the tractor to plow the field and drive the stone crusher, I am very satisfied with its performance, and I wish you all the best in the New Year.
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Happy New Year to you as well Master builder Tone. I have been researching for a couple of years and am ready to start building. I want to put a one or two cylinder four stroke gas engine in a boat. I was going to make a simple updraft charcoal unit or the Jeff Davis Air Fuel cell but I have a sawmill and generate a lot of waste wood. Do you feel that your three nozzle gasifier from your tractor would work? If I had a suitable truck I would build the new WK unit but am retired now and building a house so money is more of a concern than it used to be. I have a brother that could help with the welding and have access to a range of tanks. Thanks, Buzz
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I am a couple hundred km north of Steve U and have the same soft charcoal conifers. Hemlock, fir, alder and red and yellow cedar.
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Hi Darrell, Iām trying to understand whatās going on in the gasifier and put it to the test. I have already written quite a few thoughts on this forum and presented a lot of sketches about the construction of the gasifier. My goal is also that the gasifier consumes different wood with different sizes, at the moment I think that one wide ring of air intake nozzles at the top would be sufficient, where hot air would enter for the pyrolysis process and charcoal formation, and a medium air intake nozzle at the bottom for gasification of fine coal and thereby moving and cleaning the lower part to the side, thus enabling a good and easy flow of āfuelā. Well, here is a short video of what the gas looks like 5 minutes after starting and how much the mixer means to the combustion.
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Thanks Tone. Yes I have read this thread and many others to understand the different ways that people have come up with to work for their needs. I have the sketch that you made on post 558 but it does not show the upper ring of nozzles. Would you do away with the top 10 nozzle row or the lower 7 nozzle ring?
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Tone, do you think that if the ring of nozzles were adjustable in height (+/- closer to the grid). A precise separation of the ring of nozzles from the grid could make the nozzle at the bottom useless?
hope to be understandable, English is not my mother tongue 
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Interesting idea. But how would you actually make this happen?
Rindert
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Darrell, I think the upper 10 nozzles would be sufficient, where the air enters closer to the wall of the funnel and causes charring of the wood on the perimeter, thus collapsing the bridging or stagnation of fuel, which is formed near the wall, but there is another feature that happens in the gasifier, namely, in the middle the temperatures are higher and here the tar gases rise, while along the wall they descend and when they reach the area of āāthe nozzles they experience a thermal transformation. When the flows are small, they donāt break up completely here, so they get a hot treatment at the bottom, where itās very narrow, dense and hot. area and it is difficult for any tar to slip past. Thierry, you are very understandable, I also write with a translator, he doesnāt translate some sentences well, but we still understand each other. The raising and lowering of the air nozzles actually takes place, because depending on the flow of gases, the negative pressure also changes at different heights of the hot zone, which is filled with fuel. It is greatest at the bottom at the exit, and as we rise higher, it decreases, so depending on the flow they āturn onā the nozzles at different heights, while the lower one always works.
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I think there are very few that understand these processes as well as you do Tone. You should write a book or at least a pamphlet about your designs and theories. Iād certainly buy it. Sharing information in a thread is great but it gets dispersed and scattered. Itās good to have a reference, like the DriveonWood book or the Ben Peterson book that you can keep going back to to refresh your memory.
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Thank you Tom for the kind words, well, scattered information is good, because anyone who wants to enter the world of gasification will invest some effort and time to read all this and extract what interests them. Happy Sunday everyone.
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the production of wood gas, first the charcoal glows in the lower part and CO burns with an almost invisible flame, but when the conditions for the pyrolysis of wood are created, and the gas we want starts to come out, the temperature below drops visibly, but the charcoal still glows white, ā¦
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Thanks Tone for clearing that. I had to go back a few 100 posts. I remembered a complicated drawing. This is way better and proven to function very very well. Fixed grate and only ashes at the end? First time right?
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Joep, with this video I tried to show how this construction of the hot zone works, how the lower part glows around the lower nozzle and how the ash blows out. I have to say that this cordless vacuum cleaner has a rather gentle suction. You can also see that there is no fear of running out of coal, because the upper nozzles do this conversion efficiently, but then there is still a long way down through the glowing coals,ā¦
I tried working only with charcoal and then with wood, the difference is more than obvious, Iām not saying that there is no flame with charcoal, but when the wood starts to gasify, itās a different picture.
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