Tractor with gas?

Do you have to get them moving by hand or will that PTO get them spinning from a dead start. That’s a lot of mass.

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Most people here think if its isnt straight out of the fridge or ice packed cooler its not good to drink. Marketing techniques " the mountains are blue!" Thanks coors light…

Cold temperature activated cans. Wrap your brain around that one, it causes me brain pains

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Yeah, some breweries tryed that too here. The bottle spelled “chears” if cold. l guess it didnt catch and ended up just being extra cost to the company.

Ha, l remembered a anecdote from Argos. One evening, we chated by the fire and l belive the topic was homebrew. I remembered JO and l had some beers in the tent, and l offered Al Frick one. I sayd to him that its not cold thugh… he took the can in the hand, looked at me and sayd something like “thats not not cold, thats streight up hot!” :smile: and this time he was right… it was upper limit consumable even for our European standards :smile:

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After a party I had half a box of beer left. What could I do with this beer? I remembered that my relatives in Netherlands would keep the beer in the basement (de kelder). So I put it in my basement. A long time after that, I think more than a year, a friend was at my house and I gave him one of those. He was surprised that cheap beer, Leinenkugel’s, tasted so good. I think maybe if you keep beer at a very constant temperature it will taste better.
Rindert

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I know if beer has a lot of heat cycles of up and down it can turn skunky. Ironic that whiskey in a barrel does the opposite, it becomes more refined.

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Let me tell you what I wanted to achieve by heating the beer on the flame. First, of course, warm up the beer a little so that it is not so cold, and then check whether there are any tar gases in the flame that would condense on the cold surface and leave a black trace.

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No black, supergasifier :ok_hand:

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Yes, de kelder, best place to keep your beer. And beer is like wine, give it some rest. After a week even Heineken tasts good :smiley:

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The term ratskeller is used by many restaurant/bars here, Joep, usually with a Bavarian themed decor.
Ratskeller (German: “council’s cellar”, pl. Ratskeller, historically Rathskeller) is a name in German-speaking countries for a bar or restaurant located in the basement of a city hall (Rathaus) or nearby. Many taverns, nightclubs, bars, and similar establishments throughout the world use the term.

I find it revealing that the city hall is called the Rathaus. So appropriate for the local politics here.

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Appropriate for politics of any level everywhere :nerd_face:

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Some time ago, JO reported an “explosion” from the gasifier, but this also happened with my tractor. On the last drive, I added some fine coal and a lot of coal dust to my gasifier in addition to wood, the tractor worked fine, well, the drive was short and there was a lot of fuel left. When stopping, I always ventilate the filter and turn on the gas coming out of the gasifier. In two days I had work for my tractor again and when I open the gasifier, I usually light the gases that were trapped in the gasifier, they usually burn slowly from the top to the inside. the same thing happened now, only when the flame went inside, there was an explosion, I have the feeling that the coal dust swirled and there was a dust explosion, thank God, there was no damage. ,:fireworks::fire::smiley:

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Sucking the air into the gasifier by the suction blower down through the hopper is how I prevent this when lighting my gasifier cold. After a minute or so air going into the hopper opening the gases are gone. When starting up the engine to warm up my muffler preheater, the gases coming up to the engine will be very weak gases at first even with my gas butterfly valves closed they are more of restriction valves not completely closed, this clears the gases out of the piping cooling rails, hayfilter condensation tank. Opening the air intake valve to the gasifier causes this and purges the rest of the gases out. I now can safely light down into the hopper after I have checked the charbed with my feeling rod. Also with the suction blower on it helps move ashes down throgh the charbed when feeling my charbed condition and poking into the holes of the grate. This is always a good idea before lighting the gasifier up. Many different ways to do this check. But always start the suction blower first and run it for a few minutes to clear out the gases, before putting a flame of fire into the hopper area. It will save you having to put the wood and charcoal back into the hopper after it leaves the hopper abruptly up into the air with a big gas explosion.
Side lighting ports can send a lot of fire out them too with a big blast.
Bob

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Tone, can you set those jaws closer and run it through again to make fine sand?

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This year, the tractor did approx. 100 working hours on wood, today I started a “big” service, changing the oil and filter on the engine, changing the filter for wood gas, cleaning the refrigerator, I also emptied the gasifier, because I would like to see what condition it is in. restriction plate and lower nozzle, hmm, almost no wear.

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Top job Tone🦾. All clean? No tar?

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I thought a bit about the restrictor opening and made a new trial with a larger diameter of 125mm (5") and lengthened the lower tube so that it now extends 3cm to the bottom. Here are some pictures, well, I used sheep’s wool for the filter in addition to hay and sawdust .


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Ha, ha,… Joep, what’s there to brag about, I can’t find tar in the refrigerator or in the filter, I rinsed the refrigerator with water and also the barrel for the filter, but it’s clean. This system is really not demanding to maintain and use, well, I will report what the difference will be after replacing the restrictor plate, I have a feeling that this system could produce gas for 30-40 kW. :grinning:

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Tone I think you put in all the hard work ahead of time so you don’t have to work on it later. Good design and attention to detail paid off for you.

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Just some thinking on my part that led me to increase the down tube. When the system is operating with a small load, the hot area at the top is slowly extinguished, but at the bottom nozzle it is still alive, so the charcoal is consumed here, and the new one cannot be fed through the small opening to a sufficient extent, because the pieces are too big, well, now it will this more enabled. The next thing is the difference in negative pressure, which is different for the upper nozzles and the lower one, now this difference will be smaller and more air will be in the upper nozzles for charcoal formation. Once again, I would like to thank all my friends on this forum who selflessly share their knowledge and experience, I am happy to be in the company of the best, THANK YOU.

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