Good to hear this, this is kind of what I was thinking too even though I have no experience with woodgas but more from what i have been reading here and I would like to convert the old Fordson Major diesel from the fifties to a hybrid and to use Tone’s gasifier for that, it works very good.
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I installed a new ignition coil, I also connected a pipe for vacuum pre-ignition regulation from the intake manifold to the ignition distributor, added an on/off switch for the ignition,… the steering wheel mechanism had a lot of play and the ride was unfavorable at “high speed” " ", well, I somehow managed that too,… this is a recording of the engine running,…
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Well done Tone. That thing just purrs like a tiger. Makes me anxious to get my old IH 300 switched over to wood.
Garry C
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Great to hear this Tone.
20-25 seconds just idle running on filter barrel gas!
And for the first time I see on your R.H. cooler chambers added washing out port-plugs. New? Or, I have just been unobservant?
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Steve, I installed these vents a few months ago to thoroughly clean the refrigerator, but it is not necessary to do it often, maybe once a month. These days the tractor works “a lot”, now 100% on wood gas. The power is good and the operation is smooth, but when the gasifier and the engine warm up to the “working” temperature, the power is comparable to the power on diesel fuel, let me just say that when the hatch is fully open, there is a knock (CR is 1:16), I eliminate this by adding a larger proportion of air, or by reducing the flow on the intake manifold. (unfortunately, the gas mixer with a damping effect has not yet been produced)
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I just love when a plan comes together 
Edit : Hey Tone .
I hope you are planting lemon trees
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Thanks Tony.
It seems to be like the tests in my book, do you have the diesel pump still on the tractor?
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“Birds of the same species fly together”,… what do I mean by this saying? Kristjan addressed me at one of the Slovenian engineering forums and convinced me with his contributions that I started working with wood gas and socializing with you and “flying in the flock”. “Flying in a flock”, watching how the neighboring birds flap their wings, especially how the “main” bird at the beginning, cutting the air,… this is the best school for flying. Thank you all, I can learn from you, especially you, Mr. Wayne.
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We would say something like that too, but it comes from older style English. “Birds of a feather flock together”.
Thank you for the great work you do.
I have talked to a lot of race car people who use methanol fuel. They have told me that 14.2:1 CR is optimum. They tell me that when they use higher ratios it does not make more power.
Rindert
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Today I drove the tractor for fun, well, among other things, I passed a power test with diesel fuel and wood gas on a steep forest path. Diesel fuel is stronger, and wood gas is not far behind, when the automatic gas mixer is installed, the “match” will be fierce 
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Rindert, thank you too, well, probably CR 1:14 is also the ideal compression ratio for wood gas, as I already wrote, CR 1:16, which is on this tractor, is a bit too high, but with partial load it works perfectly and very economically . I have the pre-ignition set a few degrees before top dead position.
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I tested the gas mixer, I think it will work well, I did the tests with the connection with flexible pipes. I have to make a fixed connection and install a flap that will serve to “switch” between operation on diesel fuel and wood gas and add another smaller flap for manual air suppression, when operating on wood,…
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Tone, do you think a CR 1/17.5 diesel engine could run on wood gas? The engine of my MF 240 is a 3 cylinder of 1/17.5
can you explain why wood gas cannot be compressed beyond 1/14 in a gasoline engine vs 1/16 in a diesel engine?
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When the engine operates with a combination of diesel fuel and wood gas, we change the wood gas/air mixing ratio, so that when the need is low, the engine gets a lean mixture, but when the need for power is greater, the mixture is enriched (actually, only the intake opens when the air intake is suppressed gas according to need). If you think about it, with this method the mixture is always a little lean, which enables a higher compression ratio, but when igniting the mixture with a spark plug, it is known that the mixture must always be flammable.
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My tractor is 1/17 and it runs ok. Like Tone says, if it feels like it wants to knock l can just lean the mixture some and it goes away.
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People say that nowadays everything can be ordered online, well even these parts for my tractor were on offer (joke)
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It is true! I just posted those pictures on eBay listing for you! It already has 4 bids! (Joke)
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I have already mentioned several times that my tractor has engine speed regulation with a vacuum membrane, which controls the vacuum connected to the throttle valve. This method is very simple and works great, well, now that the engine is running without diesel fuel, it is quite difficult to maintain a stable working speed, I thought about installing a centrifugal regulator (which most working engines have), but it would be quite demanding to do. I thought about electronic steering (it is possible to get cruise control for older cars), but I abandoned that idea as well. My mind returned to the negative pressure, but I need a vacuum pump that rotates with the engine and thus its flow changes depending on the engine revolutions and if a vacuum membrane is connected to the vacuum line, which opens and closes the supply of the gas and air mixture… I set the desired revolutions with a small throttle valve on the vacuum line… the thing should work identically to diesel fuel…
I remembered that some Japanese diesel cars had an alternator with a vacuum pump, well, a friend nearby had one in stock,…
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