Excellent restoration Tone!
Ahh . . . two points.
Never do a stand-besides, starting-ups on anything with seat. Butt-in-seat keeps you safe from an Opps started, unexpected movements. Also, butt-in-seat puts you in the best controls position. Able to use feet and hands.
Idle low speed means the least oil pressure, and coolant flows. O.K. to brag. But do not allow this to become the habit.
Regards
Steve unruh
All I can say is âWooowww!â That baby holds a nice steady beat. TomC
I lie and think at night which is best, I have made a tractor-driven electric unit, I hope it works immediately, although it has been so long without me using it, thought about having it for the saw and planer, they use some elektrik power .
But which is better, make a gas unit for diesel fergusson, and use it as a power source or try to start an old petrol engine on gas and have it as a stationary power plant?
Exactly the same thinking I have gone through here JanA. since ~2007.
I have a 1980-ish J.D/Yammar diesel tractor. Still runs good on pump diesel. Very low running maintenances on pump diesel. Just oil and filters. Unless . . . I would ruin it experimenting.
I bought a new 10 KW Mech-Alta direct drive brushless generator head. It would only ever need two ball bearings and four exciter diodes.
Experiences decades previous, on cow milking diaries proved tractor generating for Grid-Down electricity ties up the tractor. It can be used for nothing else!!
At least the tractor can move the electrical generation from needs, to needs.
It could also move an independent powered generator system.
So I then purchased a Kohler V-twin 11.5 kW Miller welder-generator. Modern. New. Fuel injected. Sweet. The tractor could move it.
These have proven easy to woodgas fuel. Spark plugs; and spare ignition coils; an injectors processor controller can be protected-stored virtually forever.
Fuels cannot. They degrade.
A problem here on the remains of this old once dairy farm. The now grid supplied electrical needs are spread out distance wise for a single source DYI power. Down from once five separate Grid meter heads, to three now.
So I sold off the too large of generator-welder and went with individual inverter generators. Very quiet. Very discreate. Two separate units so far. I need to get a third unit for redundancy.
Now the Wife has decided to relocate us to a different property. Downsizing, with a single meter head power needs.
This place also has a perfect solar angle roof. Better, not hills and trees shading location. And this place has trees that CAN make fuel charcoal.
Once fully moved our Grid electricity usage will halve the monthly bills now show.
One truck load moved at a time. 2-3 truck loads moved a month October to now.
Hey. I am 69 years old and doing this mostly solo.
Always. Properly fitted pants. Big tools laden pockets. A good leather belt. And ease holding suspenders.
DIY electricity the same way. Redundancy. More than locking into just one way.
Steve Unruh
Jan, I know what I would do if I had a generator like that. I would get a rwd junked out car with a working gasoline engine, mount the generator to the back seat floor and a pully on the driveshaft. Belt through the floor.
On your way to SjöÀndan your S10 gasifier should be warmed up. Just park next to the jacked up car and stick a hose under the hood, crank up and you can start milling. Choose gear to optimize rpm. One gasifier less to light and warm up and less maintence. Also, Iâm with Steve - knowing you have to switch equipment on a tractorâs three point and pto often leads to procrastination.
Whenever power needs elsewhere, the car/generator is still driveable.
You could see if there was a PTO available for your trans. Iâve never heard of one made for a truck like an S-10 but there may be something that could be adapted.
Power Take-Offs | Mpower Specification Software. That way you have the ability to park the truck, engage the PTO to power your generator off the truck engine. Check the list in the link I provided.
I wouldnât be surprise if the trans on Steves 3500 GMC isnât already provided with a side panel for a PTO.
Interesting discussion this, i have thought about something like this for a while. I got a generator for free, and got it home some weeks ago, had some ideas about powering it with woodgas, then i got the idea to tractor-mount it, im not really in need of it, just good to have in case of a power failure, or raising prices. I think in my case its the most versatile solution?
JanA. and GoranK.,
With these large synchronous AC generator heads you must always think in strictly maintained RPMâs.
1500, or 3000 RPM for you 50 hertz folks.
1800, or 3600 RPM for us 60 hertz guys.
Realistically, pragmatically, that means engine powering oversizing as the easiest way to have changing electrical loading RPM stability.
Some insisting on high speed electronics as a stability solution. Ha! Stock lots of spares.
And having done it: multiple cylinders like these three cylinder tractors are far superior to single cylinder engine drivers.
Again. Direct experiences: single cylinder ICâs can power stroke make for a lot of electrical power flicker, when at lower engine speeds.
And only electrical power so long as the engine is fuel gobbling slaving away. Woodgas . . .you are slaving the wood fuel.
You need off the peak times ofelectrical heavy electrical wattage loads; light electric loads demands; energy storage.
Batteries.
And Batteries want DC charging.
So just DC woodgas engine generate, eh? Be RPM and engine loads FREED! This works too. Wattage limitations in less expensive charging units.
Then you must choose for electrical consumer/workers matched to the DC voltage bank. Expensive to source this all.
Or, . . . go with relatively expensive high enough electronic DC to AC converters. Again. Stock up on spares.
Here, USA there are still available reasonable priced used 1980âs, 90âs RediLine brand of 12/24VDC motor-generators.
I did go with all three of these directions too.
It has been later with the wider development of true quality manufacturers of IC engined, Inverter-Generators that Iâve switched. RPM, and power very flexible and still able to produce some useable AC wattage. And that suppling AC wattage very voltage and hertz stable, safe
Sure. Sure. Much internally electronic complex. Would seem to be putting all of the eggs in one basket. But . . .
Branded factory units Iâve been able to get service manuals with wiring diagrams.
Factory spares are available.
Or, heck. Just catch seasonal sales and buy new complete units as spares. Buy used, same-same models as casts off for spares parts. Plenty of stupid people not doing oil changes. Using contaminated gasolines. Give up and then selling off, cheap. Anger wifes divorcing selling his stuff off in spite.
Here are more thinking alternatives to woodgas power for electricity to sleep on.
Regards
Steve Unruh
I have had a similar project in the works for a few years. Old Ford 4x4 25k gen head run off rear drive shaft. 300ci(4.9) bed off slide-in gasifier on frame. Front drive to move it where electric is needed. 
Thatâs exactly how I got my sun rotted briefcase unit. Powered by a nice little Yamaha engine. Piston was seized probably from NEVER changing the oil. ATF-Acetone 50/50 mix thru the spark plug hole, patience, and gentle persuasion of the flywheel got it broke loose, then a quick run with Marvel oil to remove sludge and back to the good small engine oil. It needs to have a new frame built since the plastic enclosure is now kaput. Has a DC takeoff and AC plugs for 1300w, tested with my heat gun it still delivers the power.
What do I do wrong when the chain becomes like this after a while, only on one side?
It does not center after I drive a bit.
We use heavy-duty rubber band ties for chains to keep the chains from slipping around. Cross them on the outside. Heavy duty Bungee cords might work for you.
Bob
The black rubber bands that looks like âladdersâ, (kapellstrĂ€ckare in Swedish) is what i use, available in âmetervaraâ 
Thanks for the tips, I wonder if I tightened the chain too hard, because it moves, do not think they usually do so.
Robert and Göran, I tested your advice this morning when I shoveled snow, it was not so long, but almost 1 hour.
It seemed to work, I corrected the chain and put a bicycle hose in the middle, with some steel wire, and see no hint that the chain was moving, thanks for the tip.
Mostly the chains skewing happens at corners turning. Any slack. Loaders chains have to be very tight.
Road vehicles it is traveling speed fling-out and then turning.
S.U.
Tone, did you turn on the tap for the air, or was it from the beginning?
Jan , my tractor has a speed control with throttle valve , at this point there is a signal tube attached , through which the vacuum is transferred to the fuel metering pump which has a chamber with a diaphragm and a spring , which serves to regulate the amount of fuel , the higher the vacuum , the more the diaphragm closes the fuel.
Ok, my tractor seems to regulate the speed with only diesel, can I just put in a mixer tap and let the gengas go through the air intake? Would it work?
Jan, it will work, but when the engine is unloaded, blue smoke will appear because the wood gas will not burn. Your tractor probably has a Lucas diesel pump, which has a built-in centrifugal regulator for maintenance of the plant, which determines the amount of fuel injected, which must be followed by opening the wood gas valve, but how? I will install an additional vacuum-controlled diaphragm on my tractor that will open the throttle.
