Hmm, did not work, I see connection number 2 to the pto and the hydraulic, but the drive is hidden.
Is it possible to inject something that solves the whole thing without destroying the slats? (slats is it the word for the disc in the clutch? )
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Yeah. That plate is for sure rust seized on the shaft splines.
Long flexible wand try spraying up some type of rust penetrant in the gap far up past the spring and clutch cover.
First get the clutch cover to moving. Prying at points slim blade between the cluch cover face and the clutch disc all around degreed rotating the engine.
THEN get the clutch disc broken loose and moving.
A bit of edge damage to the clutch facing will be o.k. Just be sure not to pry/wedge them away from the clutch disc metal center plate.
Of course, “try” and not to get sprays on the clutch disc friction facings.
You know the only for-sure way will be to split the tractor mid-line for full access.
“Strength and Persistence” wins in the end.
Steve Unruh
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My clutch looks like this, it is the clutch on the left that is stuck, it is not visible in my picture, so I can not do anything about it.
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Thanks Tone, but the disc is stuck on the flywheel not on the pressure plate.
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The old timers tell me you chain the draw bar to a tree and in 3rd gear drive off with your foot holding the clutch peddle down the tractor will either stall or the clutch will break free. I am not too keen on the sudden stop or snapping a chain. I have had two people with 2 tractors use a tow strap which is made to take the impact force have the other tractor pull you backwards while you try to go forward with the clutch held down. That seemed safer to me as the Two tractors are more forgiving than a big tree. Yes it did work but the owner didn’t drive the tractor enough and the clutch just got stuck a few weeks later. If it was me I would split the tractor and clean all the rust off the flywheel. It is alot of work but the sudden stop and wheel to the gut doesn’t look like fun
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I would first try brake cleaner spray, it will not hurt the disc pad let it sit for a few hours then spay it again. It will soak in. Contamination of oil to the clutch disc is to be completely avoided if possible like Steve said when spraying the rust dissolving solutions.
Bob
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Jan, if you depress the clutch pedal, does the thrust plate rise? Let the woman press the pedal, and you try to loosen the lamella with a curved screwdriver, heat a larger screwdriver and bend it by 45 *, the curve should be about 5cm from the end, slowly turn the flywheel and try in different places, maybe it will work.
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Yes, the pressure plate is moving, I’ll see if there is room to try your trick.
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Hmm, looks like mine is narrower, does not get in such a large screwdriver, only a very thin one.
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Thank you, thank you, thank you Tone, I sharpened a screwdriver so I got into the disc, only after 1/4 of a turn it started to sound different, and now the clutch works, Thanks again. 
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Jan , I’m glad you made it , such a nice tractor really shouldn’t be out of order , should it Jo?
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Today, I brought a block and cylinder head from a master from neighboring Croatia, replaced the cylinder liners and processed them to tolerance, straightened the upper surface, straightened the head and adjusted the more powerful valves. Due to the straightening of the engine block, the new pistons fall out of the plane by 0.5 mm, which I will arrange myself, so I would keep the compression ratio of 1: 16.5, but I am thinking of lowering them by another 0.5 mm, which would mean 1: 15.6. … I have to decide
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I think if it was me, I would keep the 16.5, because that is already low for a diesel engine. That still gives you the option of lowering later.
But then I don’t know that much about diesel engines…
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I have listened to a lot of race car guys talk. methanol guys & etc… It seems like 14.2:1 CR is where they all end up. The consensus seem to be that you can use higher compression ratios, but you won’t get more power. Not sure if this is true for woodgas though.
Rindert
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The engine is sticking to the tractor again, I’m progressing slowly. The compression range is slightly smaller, mathematically it should be somewhere around 1:16. There will still be a lot of work around this tractor.
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It looks a little easier to work on your tractor when you have cleaned it, maybe would try it with mine if it gets + degrees.
Was just out and replaced the hydraulic filter, was a little difficult to access, but needed, was a little thick on the bottom that I did not get out.
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