maybe like this
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Tone, are you sure the pump is not shutting down completely? If so, how do you stop the tractor?
But in that case I can not understand how the tractor can work, is there a possibility to light gengas with compression?
SMP went on for many years and tested diesel and gengas, here is how they are done, think it seems quite easy to get a diesel to work.
But I have talked to a guy who interviewed the head of SMP, and he claimed that they had problems with knocking with a higher comp than 12: 1, however, think it is strange when they made this manual.
http://www.gengas.nu/byggbeskrivningar/smp/kapitel_1.shtml#2.1
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Jan, it says well in the manual, a good description of the whole system, … collisions can occur when you have strong hydrogen gas, this happens soon after startup and at full load, I reduce knocking with a poorer mixing ratio, but without diesel fuel I still failed to keep the engine running, even at CR 1:22 on my Kubota.
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After reading that manual I would like to rephrase: - I know nothing about diesels.
Watching Wayne’s video of the VW Rabbit I was under the impression you could just leave things at an idle setting and rev it depending on the offered woodgas mix 
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Jan, you and me both 
the first diesel l ever owned was the Deutz motor Tone gave me, and it wery much might of been the only one life hadnt had other plans.
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Thanks Tone, so you mean if I hear the engine knocking, can I increase the amount of air in the mixing valve a bit?
The engine I am thinking of is 17: 1 in compression.
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Jan, that’s right, less combustible gas and more air prevents collisions in the engine, but at CR 1:17 there won’t be this problem, except maybe soon after starting the gasifier when it produces very strong hydrogen gas, at least I have such experience, then it soon calms down. I assume that there will be no collisions with the tractor, my IMT 533 has a CR 1:16, it also has speed control with a damper and a vacuum regulator, and it will rarely run at max power, unlike the generator, which starts immediately operate at full power.
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This video shows real measurements, energy produced and diesel fuel consumption. 7 hours of operation, 11 liters of diesel fuel consumption, 68 kWh of electricity produced, so on average it produced 10 kW during this time, I think the engine was underloaded because the consumption of 1.5 liters of diesel fuel per 10 kWh of electricity produced is not special achievement when operating on wood gas. As much as I did similar measurements, I reached somewhere 1l of diesel fuel per 10 kWh, I also think that this is an expected limit for small engines, but for larger engines, I would dare to say that diesel fuel consumption could be reduced to 0.5 l per 10 kWh of electricity produced.
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I finally got the brand new tractor home today 
, fixed the gear, it went well, but have a new problem with it.
The clutch is stuck, so it is not possible to disconnect, and there is ice everywhere, so I can not brake it loose.
So I thought of shortening the chains to Zetorn and putting on Fergusson.
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What a beauty! Loader and all. Congratulations!
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Now it will be necessary to establish a club Fergie, congratulations Jan, I think Jo envies us a little such beautiful tractors.
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Tone, are you suggesting my gray Fergie is ugly?
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Do you have any tips on how to loosen the Clutch who is frozen (rusted) to the flywheel without disassembling the motor and gearbox?
edit rusted
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Heating it up if it is water frozen?
Bob
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Excuse the wrong word, it should be rusted.
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Hello Jan.
Some tractors have an inspection plate at the bottom of the bell housing that can be removed. If so you can drive a thin ,sharp screwdriver between the clutch and flywheel .
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I thought this one had it, but it’s probably hidden under the bracket for the front loader.
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Wayne, I was out looking, it looks like the front loader would hang even though I’m removing the beam, will try to do as you suggested.
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Jan, maybe this will help you,https://youtu.be/7kBwQb2tk0g but our friends have already given you good advice. One question, can the clutch pedal be fully depressed? Maybe it just slipped the outer attachment of the pedal to the axle and the thrust bearing makes too short a stroke?
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Thanks, it looks like in my exploded view, I think the beam for the front loader is attached to the brackets to the door, yes, I can push the clutch down completely, but only get resistance the last half, probably clutch number 2.
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