Hey Chris ,
You should be able to put the torch to the drum and swell it enough for the brake shoes to turn loose .
Well . . . on badly rusted stuck stuff always becomes a decision what is going to get sacrificed and what is gong to be saved to get it apart.
On this ChrisKy you want to save the axle, axle hub/bearings and the drum.
So I’d stop beating on that drum.
Sacrifice the adjuster, the shoes, holddowns, strut, and parking brake and brake cylinder.
Punch the adjuster through the adjustment hole unill it breaks out of place. Then see if the brake shoes will collapse in enough.
NO. With as much brake shoe now showing then punch hammer back through the upper show lining to drive back in and seat the hydraulic cylinder pistons for more clearance.
STILL NO. Then drill/grind/burn off the heads of the shoe hold down pins. Grind cut off the parking brake cables and housings and punch the stub trough released to the insides through the backing plate hole. Unbolt the hydraulic cylinders and then it should all come off.
Ha! I I’ve refuses to move to the salty ocean coast when my wife has hinted!! NO!!
90 miles has been plenty close enough to be an auto/truck mechanic, thank you.
From now on only tap, tap, tap on those drums going to be your cutter heads.
Ha! Easily replaceable drums then I’d be grind split the drums like a nut shell; sacrificed, to save all else. This is not your case.
S.U.
if you don’t need the brakes just torch cut the backing plate around the mounting flange . hitting the drum with steel hammer is a un safe idea . only use a plastic mallet
Especially true if you dribble some gasoline inside the drum first. Ha!
Thanks for the advice guys. Steve you’re spot on with the gravity feed fuel. Now I can run the engine a bit longer, hear it run some…
Yes I’ve quit beating on the brake drum, my arms gave out anyway. Time for brain over brawn! I will try your suggestions, (well maybe not Carl’s).
but Carl’s would be the most fun of the bunch… just sayin
How about some close ups of it… and the drum that did come off.
TerryL
been there arms still don’t feel right
Replacing the bearings because of a loud knock in the bottom end. Crank looks OK. In fact the bearings aren’t too bad - the knock may be elsewhere. Sure sounds like it’s in the pan. Still, for a few bucks I’ll put bearings in it.
Knocking sounds video: V8 chunker engine noises - YouTube
Audio only: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20515616/v8-chunker-noises.mp3
Bearing photos: Album 1 and Album 2
Brought home a junk trailer for parts. Trailer pulled decently coming home. Fellow I got it from was real nice, and interested in the truck.
I need to move this thing occasionally, so I’ll use this axle and tongue for moving around the yard. Any clues what this axle came out of?
Chris ,
I would kill the fan , water pump and alternator just to make sure it’s none of those ,
Have you tried any of this ?
http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
Hi Wayne, good point on the fan etc. I will plastigage the new bearings before assembly.
Chris,
sounds like its consistent with rotation but it didnt sound like a rod bearing knock. Any dents in the oil pan? do you have oil pressure? what happened with the push rod for the mechanical fuel pump? Is the torque converter bolted to the flex plate? just some thoughts
Good thoughts Wes. I know there’s oil moving because I primed it and watched. Don’t have a pressure gauge yet. Oil pan was dented from jacking ( I straightened it out). I’ll be checking the torque converter bolts too.
Fuel pump push rod is still laying in its slot - knocking seems too deep throated for that? Wouldn’t it get shoved out of the way? Anyways good point and I’ll pull it out and cap the pump hole.
I would check the torque converter bolts and take a real good look at that area…
Sounds like bolt heads hitting something?
TerryL
Chris, I can’t see the ends of the axles in the pics but are they the kind that at one time turned for front steering axles? It looks like the leaf springs were moved out near the wheels from the flat mounts near the round center section so the wheels could turn without hitting the leaf springs.
Front pulley/harmonic balancer loose noise Chris?
Hey ChrisKY
The axle for sure is out of thr rear of a Chtysler/Dodge/Plymouth front wheel drive mini-van.
You audio file more prevalent ending noise is once per engine rotational. A rod big or little end with be louder on every other rotation.
I think you have something hard rubbing inside the bell housing like a flexplate/torque converter bolt.
Sounds like with the engine power running 2-3 other noises??? also.
S.U.
If it happens to be a wrist pin loose in the piston, or a busted piston, you can remove the plug wires one at a time and it will usually stop knocking when you find the right cylinder. Worth a try.
Gary
Hey Chris ,
I once had a Monte Carlo V-6 diesel . The front pulley/harmonic balancer come loose, At idle it would sound like a rod knocking but at high rpms it was silent .
If you take the fan belt off, remove all the plugs, spin it with the battery and then by hand ( back and forth ) you should be able to find the noise . I vote the noise is coming from the bell housing.