I think it depends on which model. I had one in a snowblower maybe 5 or 8HP and the float was stuck and you had to replace the whole carb assembly for like a 100 bucks.
A fuel pump is even more, seems popular to convert to crankcase pulse type. I have two 14 HP needing fuel pumpsâ.
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Floats? Fuel pumps? Who needs them?
Interesting info:
" In addition, on the cast iron block single cylinder Briggs and Stratton and Tecumseh engines, the valve stems are parallel to the cylinder. This means that the valve heads set further away from the piston. And in the cast iron block single cylinder Kohler engines, the valve heads set closer to the piston (valve stems and lifters are angled 4°). Therefore, the other engines canât build up as much compression as Kohler engines can. Plus, they canât flow as much air in and out of the combustion chamber at high RPM or at wide open throttle, like Kohler engines can. "
Ton of info:
http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/engine.htm
But he did say that an OHV engine will have more power than any flat head.
He also explains how to convert some twin vertical engines into horizontal engines.
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On Koehlerâs with a bad fuel pump just put the tank higher than the motor and bypass the pump and let gravity feed.
I have done this before and it works just as good.
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Jim , that is the plan for the generator but may not be as appealing on the John Deere that will probably turn into a paycheck.
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Many guys with old Onan RV type generators (NH,BG,etc) that need fuel pumps convert to a Facet âCubeâ pump. They are about $45 if you shop around. You need LOW pressure. I think that more than 5 psi or so will push fuel past the floatâs valve.
PilotShop and Flight Systems are two places that sell them, but Iâm sure there are many other places.
I think this is the one you want:
Facet# volt psi Max/min gph fittings lift Descripttion Pilotshop#
40102N 12 4.0-1.5 25 1/8 - 27 INT 12â N N Pump Kit - Nuts, Washers, Bolts, Fittings 05-10773 $47.65
Or:
40104 12 4.0-1.5 25 1/8 - 27 INT 12â N N Facet Solid State Fuel Pump 05-00799 $45.45
Pete Stanaitis
Thanks Pete, I canât believe I have not thought of going electric, I have two low pressure electric pumps thatâ were used on RV generators on their past life.
You can order the kit to rebuild the carb online pretty cheap which has the parts to rebuild the vacuum pump. They are really easy to rebuild on the onan. It is when you get into internal motor parts that they are expensive. I have one case 446 that somone put an electric pump on and it seems to give me alot more trouble then just rebuilding the vacuum pump with new rubber bits.
The pre 1985 Mazda trucks and probably the Ford Couriers going back to 1972 had a bellows type electric fuel pump mounted on 2 rubber isolated studs, (10mm), just behind the cab, drivers side, outside of the frame rail.
Very easy part to pick up at the wrecking yard, low pressure, but capable of enough flow to run a 350 for normal driving.
A versatile part, nobody wants them, I would get them for 5 bucks.
I passed on the generator. Save my dollar for another project plus the roads were all salt sloop and I didnât want to soak the trailer with road salt.
Decided that the below three engines will go to the sale. Someone will get some nice small iron.
Keep the big thumper.
Have a parts engine to go with it. I figure the 12HP Kohlers are better for me to keep.
What I save on not getting the generator Iâll use to buy a flywheel for one of the AMC 258. Anybody know of a good add on governor?
Hey Jeff .
If you like old iron here is a pile 
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Wayne, kind of steep for $4500.00. The axle housing is high so maybe a drop chain or bull gear down to snub axles that the wheels turn on. Or maybe an inside gear on the wheel ream. Looks like a winch cable rolls under the rear axle housing.
It just needs a gasifierâŚ! 
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Those wheels could chunk wood. Just run over the wood with those rear wheels.
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Yes $4500 would be dreaming ,
I think it should be melted down and start over
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4500 would be if you got top dollar parting it out.
Jeff the rearend is probably an old allis chalmers rearend. AC ran a offset finial drive setup. It allowed you to get more crop clearance with a lower tractor and center of gravity for a more stable ride. It was one of the selling points up through the 60s with the d serries tractors like I have.
I am with Wayne that tractor is scrap metal. Old enough it doesnât have live power and odd enough it will be a nightmare to work on. You can pick up a running tractor with more power on rubber and with live power for less then half that price. But it is neat to look at.
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They all ran an offset rear for a while. The size of that rear differential looks -huge- and it has a shoulder on it. I donât know what it came off of, but I am sure the whole thing was built out of the scrap heap from the backyard in the 50s, which means it was probably 20+ years old in the 50s. The shoulder on the axle seems like it should be a giveaway.
Farmall always ran the axle straight down the center of the rear tire and ran larger tires to get clearance. Now people converted some of all tractors into high crop tractors with customers of set finial drives but those are all customer conversations. That rearend looks to me to either be an old allis chalmers WD or WC or maybe an old JD but I donât know the JD tractors well enough to even know if they did offset finial drives from the factory all the JD tractors I have ever seen where setup with the rearend driving the center of the wheel but that doesnât mean they didnât do offsets I just donât know them well enough to say. I do know factory IH never did offsets in the Farmall tractors.
The Farmall Cub was offset with bull gear drop axles. The drop axles can be bolted up to a Cub Cadet rear end because the same differential was used. On the Cub Low-Boy the drop axle was rotated.
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I forgot about them was think the farmall C H M and number serries but you are right the did do it on the little guys.