in general, in my Opel, the ideal situation with the design; separate purging (intake manifold on the left and exhaust on the right, separate injection with the effect of “gas-dynamic boost”, increased compression ratio (compared to the factory), electronic ignition control system, the only drawback is the absence of turbocharging. Although without it my car accelerates to 120 kilometers per hour Do you think this is enough for a car fueled with wood? 
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120kmh is what l expect any of my vehicles to achive yes. What engine does the Opel have?
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the displacement of my opel is 1.8 l
I’m sure that the transmission itself prevents me from accelerating more, I have 13-inch wheels, at a speed of 120 km / h my tachometer shows 4000 rpm and for gas it’s a lot …
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Yevgen, what size and material are you using for restriction? I would be afraid to melt my restriction before even reaching 120 km/h. I don’t dare to think about what a turbocharger could do to the gasifier.
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Good morning Joni and welcome to the DOW.
Yes 4000 rpm on woodgas is a lot. My experiments with V8 woodgas truck shows I have better power to shift to higher gear at 3900 rpm.
Wayne
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Hmmm. Yes Joni.
I read. I see. I listen.
You already have a cross flow head engine with electronic fuel injection.
You have already compression boosted that engine.
Still maybe some improvement available with forced electronic ignition timing JUST for woodgas times. Easy if it has an ignition distributor.
Many here set these up on in-side cable operated movable distributor twisting controls.
Others with some non-distributor direct electronic ignition found they had to do nothing. The system self advance to a knock sensor limit. Then even self-set back a safety few degrees.
Others like JonathanS.'s mid-1990 Ford truck up had an off-road-racing Tuner add-on system available.
He could set up four completely timing gasoline fuel/ignition maps and selector switch back and forth.
And one fellow found on his Jeep/Dodge SOHC 4.8L V-8, no distributor engine that he could do nothing. No modification or technique worked to override the ignition timing.
V-8 engine with I-4 power on woodgas.
Turbo charging, or belt or electric driven super charging could be attempted.
I have the much working experiences with the 1980-2007 factory systems. Know them well for their benefits and problems.
You need a set up for your engine best exhaust turbine versus compression side turbine. You tune the boost cut in that way. Can even tune the maximum boost that way.
You need to engine coolant cool the center HOT bearing section for any lreal useable service life. And still should use the newest specification synthetic engine oil. HOT turbo charger bearing are oil cooking. Oil then carbon converts cokes. Bearing fails
Any boost past “light” .5 bar and the engine pistons will overheat without the factories added under pistons oil spray cooling. Hot pistons distort, wear. Hot pistons drive up the pre-ignition problems. Creating holes in pistons and hammered out connecting rod bearings
Supercharging better as you can get boost drive tuned to just above idle. Then RPM overboost pressure released OFF. Especially important on deacceleration.
Most supercharges have two front and rear bearing lubrication pockets. Very special. Very expensive oils. No circulating bearing cooling except for cast housing fins.
Electric driven supercharging possible like used on some VW’s, and I think later Mercedes. Will not be cheap.
Ha! Three time in the last 13 years I’ve had a woodgaaser hand me a turbo he had bought internet asking me to “hook it up” for him. Three times I handed it back. “You want to hot-rod. YOU learn your own damn lessons, man.”
One of you should spend out the EUROs for VesaM’s Ecomobilie woodagas book. He writes extensively about all of this done from experiences engines tuning for woodgas. And he is a trained working engineer so he explains the bad in broken parts pictures. Explains the good in SI units graphs and charts.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Hi Steve,
I have worked a lot with the compression ratio of my engine and based on my own experience, I came to the conclusion that when increasing the compression ratio, the ignition timing should be set aside late and when the ratio of 11/1 is reached, it is completely consistent with gasoline. That is, subsequent changes no longer bring results.
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Favor trying the electric driven super charger then.
Give you the best changeable tuning control. Easiest retro-fit mounting.
Here is a cheapest buy-in typical:
https://www.dhgate.com/nonwayturbo-electric-supercharger-kit/568227808.html
Chinese.
I’d personally use VW factory used. That’s just old OEM-Steve me.
S.U.
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Steve,
I forgot to write about Wessa’s book … Do you see Steve I also have an engineering education and I know engines well, so I won’t find anything new in the purchased literature. You touched on the topic of heating parts (pistons), but you did not take into account the factor that the engine heats up much worse on wood gas than on gasoline. And I believe that overheating, in our case, can be neglected.
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Steve,
Thanks for the recommendation Steve, but I kind of don’t want to over complicate and redo my engine power system, as I want to have a dual system (gas-petrol). Another reason is the passing of a technical inspection by the police … My gas generator is very quickly and easily removed from the car and the car becomes fully consistent with factory standards (no alterations). Having received a pass, I return everything to its place and continue to operate.
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Very Good. I understand and agree completely.
Why I do not cannot woodgas drive in my State.
I was a trained registered Certified Auto Emissions repairman in my state 2000-2005.
THEY (the State) wanted me to take out of service all vehicles emissions failing.
I wanted to repair them for the owners/users. Just like I had done un-register not-certified for the previous 20 years. I repaired and had pass independent inspections hundreds.
Ha! So I am now a state watched closely declared Scofflaw. All my own vehicles must be tip-top. Factory stock. I drive now a 2.4L 2004 Toyota Camry. Wonderful candidate vehicle I must not modify.
My personal woodgasing LEGAL is home power generation. Legal here for me if I never touch into the public owned Grid system.
I loved your mini-system video. The success laughter said it all.
Search here the works of engineer Stephen Abbadessa. Same external configuration and capabilities. For sure independently developed. Cannot be the same inside.
Regards
Steve unruh
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Joni,
You are giving us extremely valuable information. Thank you!
Rindert
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Actually this is a good thought experiment at slow speed we can advance the ignition and get plenty of time for carbon monoxide to burn but we need higher flame speed as the engine’s rotational speed increases. If we add water incrementally to the carbon reduction area as engine speed increases then we can increase our flame speed.let’s say for practical engine building purposes we can only get 10 to 1 compression ratio.
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Sorry I was typing and couldn’t clear the screen
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The reason I quit this train of thought was that I primary work in the 1000 rpm range with wood gas.
I don’t like generators that run more then 1800rpm.
I realized I cannot speak to high rpm. I thought I better stop before I made a fool of myself.
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Hi Bruce, when I first discovered this site. I heard people talking about wood gas running vehicles at 3500 max rpm. with there gasifers. After I rebuilt my gasifer fire tube using Wayne’s proven WK gasifer V-10 design with 10 nozzles, I added 12 nozzles to my design. I have taken my 318 cu. in. Engine up to 4800 rpms. Between shifts 1st. to 2nd. No problem at all. I have gone up to 5000 rpms. It causes a puff back on the hopper. So much for low rpms. on wood gas.
Bob
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You know you might just be able to use an electric blower to super charge the engine. Hear me out first before you shoot this down. If you only boost for a short time during times you need it. It might just work. This could be done on the cheap.
I bet two of these here would be enough to give you boost when you need it.
EFI ignition timing can be re mapped simply by swapping out the MAP sensor. This sensor is what controls and maps ignition timing. These sensors work with a 0 to 5 volt signal out. You can get different ones that output higher or lower voltages based on manifold pressure. This is the electronic version of the vacuum advance of the old carburetor engines. The manifold absolute pressure sensor sends information based on manifold pressure. The ECM then uses this data along with other sensor data to control injector pulse and ignition timing for any given condition. However, the MAP sensor is what tells the ECM how much load is on the engine and is the major data factor to determine ignition timing advancement.
The Knock sensor is the health official. When a the ECM sees any signal from the Knock sensor. The ECM says “”“Uh Oh something is wrong!!! “”” Throttle everything back immediately so we dont blow holes in the piston tops!"" If the sensor keeps signaling the ECM over a time period you will set the SES / CEL and the ECM will go into open loop mode. If you mod this sensor to have a higher parameter or Triger point all you are doing is allowing the ignition timing to advance past this parameter and engine knocks will go un detected. This has nothing to do with the ECM actually commanding ignition advancement. It will do exactly the opposite if it sees this signal and retard timing. That sensor is there to prevent damage to the engine and should never be altered in anyway.
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Oh, I believe you Bob! I just realized I only know high rpm gasoline character istics. Then only imperically.
This is a good idea.
I need it to tame the turn down ratio for saw mill or snow blower engines…150cid or bigger.
The other use would be to make blau gas. Fans could alternate benches. Keeping things hot.
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Matt do you have a source for 30 amp bldc motor controllers
I want to attempt running an alternator as a motor.
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