We (family) have rentals in the Adirondacks which the tenants are responsible to heat, some elec and some (fuel oil). Non owners could give a crap less if they fill the tank when they leave (tanks are always full before we rent) so antifreeze is a good insurance policy. Yes, we have successfully sued for damages. Your first line of defense, have a lawyer draw up your rental agreements, check out the prospective tenant’s landlords and other references (discard all from family members!). Can’t wait to sell!
Pepe
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Flue Gas Thermostat WS 519 Exhaust temperature sensor switching point 212 ° F just bought this part to stop circulation pump when fire goes out . . Before I had set thermostat so low that I would only get heat from wood . Now I am losing heat most times .
I don’t get what you are trying to do with the flue gas sensor. I set my system up with water temp sensors in all the different water loops. One in both boiler one in the storage tank. I used analog temperature sensors and monitored the tamp of each water source then I could choose to pull the heat out of the storage tank if it was hot. If the storage tank was cold use the wood boiler if it was hot and also reheat the storage tank. If both the storage tank and the wood boiler where cold start the oil furnace and heat according to how I wanted with oil. In my case that was min heat in the house and in the hot water storage tank. Much simpler to always act on the actual water temp you are trying to heat the house with. If it is below 160 F don’t bother turning on the baseboard heater pump it won’t make heat and will just slow down how fast the boiler gets hot. Learned that the hard way.
That flue gas thermostat seems like just what I need for my boiler.
Could you provide a link to one? If my fire doesn’t take in the morning, my family will let the blower run all day long and never notice and care that the fire is out.
I would try to put a temp probe somewhere on the stove where it heats the air or water not on the flue. What you really care about is if the air comming out of the blower will be hot enough. The flue gas doesn’t tell you if the stove is up to temp or if it has actually cooled off yet after the fire goes out. There is alot of thermal lag in a heating system so it is always better to test the temp of the actual heat source.
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found this on Ebay 351948002673 it is coming from Germany it is set for 212 degrees my flue should be 350 degrees .
Andrew don’t you need a snap disk instead of this ?
I don’t have storage tank , boiler is 115 gallons , have one valve that opens at 145 degrees , three circulation pumps for wood boiler side of heat exchanger . one pump for radiators and gas boiler . I want to stop two circulation pumps when flue drops to 212 degrees
You have 115 gallons of storage in the boiler. I would use the temp of that mass to control the pumps. If you can’t get a thermal coupler in or on the boiler put something on the outside in the pipe that leaves the boiler and when the exiting water gets too cold shut off the pumps.
These are pretty common.
There should be 2 of those on the boiler one to tell when it is at temp and a safety one to tell you when it is over temp so it doesn’t become a steam genorator.
I use a thermostat like that and it works great. I installed the probe where exhaust enters the chimney and it shuts air inlet, blower and cirkulation pump to the storgage tank down when the fire is out. If I set it at 200-210 F it usually means there are only a couple of handfulls of glowing char left.
I always pull heat from the tank and without the thermostat I would have to remember to shut everything down manually or the tank would eventually feed the boiler heat. The boiler would then act as a very efficient radiator and and all the crows in the neighbourhood would settle on top of my chimney.
Edit: Ops, typing when you are. My probe is 50-300 C (120-570 F)
Edit 2: Without a storage tank the thermostat can still shut air inlet and blower down to save heat
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JO the functionality you mentioned for blower control was built into my Tarm boiler so I didn’t have to worry about turning off the blower. What you outlined make good since.
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I think Dan has made a valid point on my inquiry. Even if the fire is out I still have usable heat stored in the water. What I really need is either another aquastat in the water set for the minimum useful water temp, or a thermostat in the furnace plenum, to shut everything down.
Hi Dan,
If for some reason FEMA looks like an answer and you wonder just what it looks like inside and out, check out my first gasifier, a FEMA type. I wouldn’t run an ICE with it as it tends to tar up and stick intake valves. This can be run without an air tight cover or any cover at all. It might be good as a heat source where you can burn up scraps and not have to be too picky with size as long as it flows. This will also bring you to all the other gasification stuff I’ve posted on Youtube. Just click on the Youtube symbol at the lower right hand corner of the video frame.
For some in depth gasification information try Jim Mason’s All Power Labs stuff here. His intro is long, info starts at 10:53. This is a 7 part series and great explanations of the science and chemistry. A good study for those long cold winter nights.
Pepe
Chris can you please move this to the Woodgas Boiler post in General Discussion? Thanks.
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I have wondered about leakage on a refrigerant powered tracking system, that would be the only issue. It would come down to the seals on the cylinder, I imagine some grades of cylinder are better than others. As long as recharging wasn’t too frequent or difficult.
The reason I posted this system is because the efficiency of flat plate collectors drops rapidly at lower temperatures, near freezing temperatures radiative losses balance heat gain. This system will be able to collect significant heat regardless of air temperature, and higher grade heat. I believe they report 7,000 watts heat from a 10ft array.
More passive systems will be less work, but the trade off will be efficiency and performance.
Regards,
I was trying
to turn wood boiler into gasifier to run generator . I had fire , tossed in fir boards . got a big roaring gas flare . Could not start engine . switched back to flare and just had smoke . This might be something that can’t be done . That was the best it did . Get flare gas pull on it get smoke . Did best to totally seal boiler .