Ugh, now it’s almost done, 3-4 more bags for the summer house, and possibly some for the winter house left to do.
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I’ll tell you this, inorganic wood is really hard to light 
.
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Is every building in Sweden painted red?
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No, the tourists and city dwellers start painting the houses black.
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In the area where we (the three J’s) live it is a very common colour because of the closeby historic coppermine in Falun.
As a byproduct they got a red pigment and made the paint with linseed oil, rye flour, pigment, iron vitriol and water. Boil while stirring the whole shebang and there you have the paint.
These days it is still normal to paint it red
I have the recipe written down somewhere, if someone want it just ask.
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Thanks Johan.
Jan, it gave me a laugh but probably just plain truth 
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In some culturally valuable areas red is the building code. Historically, upper class big houses were usually pale yellow or white.
Big plus with the red “mud-paint” is it’s relitivly cheap. Also, it never flakes. Light brushing with a broom is enough before applying new paint.
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Johan,
I’d be interested in the paint recipe. Also, how long is typical before repainting is needed?
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I second this, not because i will ever use it but it is a nice note to have. I’m personally more in the Paint It Black crowd.
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Paint? What’s paint?
Kent, deferred maintenance expert
ps: seriously, I’d like the recipe.
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It should be said that this paint should be painted on a non previously painted (unless it is the same kind of paint) and sawed (not planed) wood surface. It lasts about ten years (esthetically) but that depends on what you find acceptable because the linseed oil and the iron oxide is what protects/impregnates the wood and the ’colour’ is what washes off first.
This barn was painted last in -84 so it’s long overdue.
Like J-O said the surface only needs to be brushed with a stiff broom before repainting.
The recipe is as follows.
26 litres of water (6,9 gallons)
2 kilograms of rye flour (4,4 pounds)
5 litres of raw linseed oil (1,3 gallons)
1,6 kilograms of iron vitriol (3,52 pounds)
2 kilograms of oxide red pigment (4,4 pounds)
Pour in 22 litres (5,8 gallons) of the water and boil ’til simmering, mix in the iron vitriol.
Mix the rye flour in the last 4 litres (1,1 gallons) of water and then stir it into the boiling pot. Boil for 15 minutes.
Then stir in the pigment and boil for another half hour, take it off the heat and stir in the linseed oil.
Done.
Paint by ’working’ it into the wood in a fairly thin layer, if it is painted in a thick layer usually it flakes off, almost like a rolling blind 
I have also read that some people put Atamon on the surface of leftover paint to keep it from moulding.
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Hi Johan, that sounds exacly like one of my recipes for “Falu red” .
Many of newer mixes contains wheat flour, which is totally wrong as it grows mold in about a year (on the painted surface).
Got some of these recipe books, good old stuff, hard to get the ingredients sometimes.
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That is cool, I can just imagine the library of amazing nowhere-to-be-found stuff you will have when you get old
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These recipe books was sold from Clas Ohlsson they got banned because of the recipes on explosives and fireworks 
I really recomend buying these if you find them on, like thrift stores.
Lot’s of good old recipes, harder to get the ingredients…
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Hehe, I found no1 and 2 plus the chemistry one after you sent the pic so those are already ordered
Good to hear though that they are worth it 
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Yes, a lot of recipes, paint, glue, and stuff, much repeats in the issues though, but well worth it as i see it.
And Google helps a lot to understand what different ingredients is.
I found one of the “uncensored” issues, with recipes for thermite, molotov cocktails (why do anyone want to make them ) ANFO, and fireworks of various/dangerous sorts. It’s odd they where sold like this, before everone had internet available.
In one of them there is a recipe for: porsöl (sweet gale beer) don’t try it! It tastes terrible, gives a terrible headache, and makes your teeth green as a bonus
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Don’t know if this is the right place, but anyway, how should the carburettor be positioned on a 135a husqvarna, I had to unscrew several turns for the saw to go well, both high and low.
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Hi Jan, you probably got a clogged fuel system, or leaky fuel lines (sucking air), or most likely, a stiff diaphragm.
Even a leaking impulse channel (intake or line) may cause this.
I can’t remember if Husqvarna 135 have Zama or Walbro carb, but turned carefully to bottom, and backed out 1-1&1/2 turn would be a good basic setting.
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That sounds like a really good book to have on hand. What is the name of it and do you know if there is an English version?
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Johan,
Thanks for the recipe.
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