You caint keep a good keith down, though i know the feeling when i work hard, i sleep good and take hot showers. I like working out in the wide open woods, i think i should build a ban saw and saw some lumber, but got too make the time and money too finish. HWWT.
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Honestly…the question I asked myself when I saw that beautiful oak lumber pile was how much help you had sawing it all.
It made me think back to my 20’s and 30’s, wrestling 16 foot logs on a large hand circle sawmill with a hydralic log turner. I always had a minimum of 4 people which included me. It used to wear me completely out on 16 foot log days, sometimes just tough making to my pickup truck to drive home.
You’d think I would have known by now, …the correct answer to this question would be mostly Wayne Keith. My hat is off to you again Mr. Wayne!
I’ve often thought it would be fun to come down and give you a hand when your sawing, pretty sure you’ve talked me out of that plan!
Bryan
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Wayne, what was in that Craigslist ad? This posting has been flagged for removal.
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Good morning William .
I think the ad may have been for truck loads of fire wood in Kentucky .
Took out about 5 hours chopping up pies of wood intoo chunks, ran out of pies so i cut more pies for tomaro.I have about 250 gallons of wood chunked and enjoying the nice weather.
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Hey Kevin, you are a pretty handy guy, have you thought about making a “drop hammer/splitter”?
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Thanks Herb Hartman i thought it might help but it seems easy for now just chopping too size i am testing with, and planning on building a chunker and diy band saw this summer so i dont have too cut all them pies up, not hard but a little time consuming, and hard on chain saw blades and saws.How is your next WG project going.? Are you getting one lined up too build.
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with a sharp chain you can cut a lot of pies . I usealy think to my self when is this tank of gas going to run out my back is getting sore . I’m sure you know the feeling by the size of your pile .herbs hammer works nice and electric even better being off grid I use my wood splitter and it makes quick work of them pies but some petro is used.
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Hi Paul M, i got a good sore back workout cutting the slices, and then today i cut another 160 gallons of pine with the hatchet intoo chunks for better drying time while it warm next few days till satetday then its back too the 30’s, if the choping gets much harder i might consider building a chopper, by that time i think a chunker may be faster way too make motor fuel, and i want too make a home made ban saw for cutting the pies before i build a tool like Herb H has.All good tools too have just the time too build whay tool first. I dont like all these junk chain saws, band saw is my next tool after 1 ton axel chunker. I have a small band saw for steel but dont think it will hold the large 1_ 1/2" blades or hold up. The bigger band saws with large 1-1/2’ or biger pullys too hold the blade come in 150-250 feet rolls, must be welded too fitt the saw, probly best deals on blades.
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The biggest problem with a band saw is if the wood has been dragged out it only takes a little dirt on the bark to dull the thin teeth. I would rather use a good chain saw. Easier for me sharpen when needed and I don’t have to carry the wood to it. Maybe just me.
Fred
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Hello Fred are you thinking those 1 1/2" blades dull fast they are about 1/16" thick but a dont know what grade the steel is compared too the cheap chan saw blades. At the price of the big ralls of band saw blade you can get about 20 feet of blade for around 20 bucks, that seems like lots of blade compared too a 20" chain saw blade. I think the saw mill guy said he gets about 20 hours cutting time and 5 sharpenings before they snap.
True about the band blades but to make up, sharpen, and set a band right takes a lot more equipment than a chain saw file. I’ll stay with my 372 Husky. Like I said maybe just me.
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Bandsaw blades really don’t like cutting through any amount of dirt or mud. Then again, chainsaw chains don’t do great in dirt either. The key with both is to change them out and resharpen as soon as they begin to feel dull.
Sharpening and properly setting bandsaw blades is essential to good performance. There should be businesses around that will weld up blades made to order. For resharpening, an automatic grinder is best, or pay someone who has a sharpener.
In the long run the bandsaw approach should be more efficient, far less sawdust, more wood per hour.
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And probably less energy to drive a fine blade
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I sharpen my band blades right on the mill. It is usually about a 5-10 min job. I use a very small 3/8 variable speed drill and must have a good pair of reading classes and a steady hand.
I also have a setter ( home made ) but I have found that if the blades are used down to where they need to be reset the remaining life doesn’t justify the time removing the blade from the mill setting and putting it back on . I have learned I get the best outcome by sharpening the blade about 6 times on the mill then replacing it.
If I don’t get into any mud , dirt or rocks I may be able to saw two or three thousand broad feet with the blade .
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Wayne thanks for the info on blades. It is one of the things I have been wonder about since I have been thinking about setting my mill up this spring if the snow ever melts so I can find the tracks…
I have wondered if hand sharing a band saw as as bad as hand sharing a chain saw or not. Because without a bench top grinder I might as well forget it with a chain saw I will mess them up every time.
I have also been told once I get the band saw going it is the only way to make fire wood. One of my friends told me he always used their mill for fire wood and the best part is you have 4x4 or 4x6 until you cut them to stove lenght that you can steal for projects around the farm.
Oh well off to go split some fire wood today myself. I seem to be on the Japanese just in time inventory this winter. Just in case anyone is wondering it doesn’t work that well for fire wood. Drying outdoors isn’t the same as stacked in a shed.
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Hello Dan .
Rain here this morning so I am getting to rest a little 
People have ask how can I tell if the blade is sharp enough?
If you can take the blade on and off the mill without bleeding it is most likely dull 
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Wayne I’m not to surprised that you sharpen bands on the saw by hand. I guess I was thinking about the way us mear mortals do it. Judging by the pictures of your lumber you are getting them right. I liked your test for sharpness. Have tested a few myself.
Wayne’s comment reminds me of my logging days in the old growth forests of Oregon.
Several times we would splice an eye in the 1 1/2" mainline using large marlin spikes. “If you ain’t bleeding you ain’t splicing”
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Thanks for chimeing in Wayne K, i was getting some questains too send your way and you just answered all but one for now other than when i start building i will ask for guilding light then. However i have a questain i was woundering if you weld your own blade splice, or know how its done.Thanks for the blade sharpening info, i sharpen all my chain saw blades by hand die grinder.I need too get a sharpener guild as its getting hard too see with out reading glasses. And i wait too long too sharpen and have too remove a 1/32 " usually.
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