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Someone is screwing around.
- 1° F this morning.!
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I always like the screw chippers. I hadn’t seen the first one before. 
I wonder about the best wooden use of this dimension.
To make logs for the heating would, it seems to me, more efficient energy.
Grinding small-sized timber is probably less energy-intensive and makes it possible to upgrade a biomass which often rotted in the forest
This is just a feeling:confused:
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You could get a cook stove for the small stuff… my uncle always made us cut right down to about 1 inch for the cook stove I tend to still cut down that small for my wood stove out of habbit. I do miss the cord wood saw for the small stuff.
I keep thinking the chunker Wayne and Chris use looks like the best small wood processing to me. Someday I will find the right tractor and budget to go that route for my haying. I hope I can cut the big stuff into fire wood and the tops into tractor fuel thus not adding too much work as I have to clean the tops up anyway.
Someone from costa rica made one to do like 2-3" growths of something like bamboo that could be coppiced. They said it worked well for their purpose. I kind of like the design because it is a bit less energy intensive, it self-feeds, and it operates at a bit slower of a speed. It is harder because you really want a pretty accurate screw, they are harder to sharpen and keeping it in adjustment can be trickier.
If you want a good analogy, it is kind of like reel mowers for lawns. If they are tuned in, and the grass isnt super long, they are really great and they cut better then a rotary. If they aren’t tuned in, or the grass is really long, they suck.
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Puffergas tweet:
Maybe tack re-bar around a shaft and keep welding on layers.
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Ha you found it!. The one labled screw is Sergio’s. Here is the full video of his, but I -think- he may have changed it to a lower angle like you see on the other ones. I just cant find a video of it.
I am open for suggestions on how people block out a log for firewood. I dulled a lot of chains last year. This is what I came up with this year. I cut the heavy side. When the chunk is cut off, it teeters to the other side. I’m hoping for a better solution but at least my chainsaw stays sharp.
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I have cut alot like that find the ballance point and cut off each ends to the center works ok. But most of the time I mark the log with my paint market wheel and cut most of the way through then roll the log. That is my normal technique. Whatever you do be careful to know what is going on with the log it can swing on a bucket like that and the bucket can fall. That is why I normally just cut most of the way through the log and roll it on the ground it feels safer.
Plus I got a bench top grinder a few years ago and I keep about 4 chains so I can just swap them and grind them all at once it makes life alot nicer with a saw.
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Thing I notice about all those screw chippers is that the have a lot of horsepower behind them. I wonder about the cost of operation vs the fuel output.
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Saw 3/4 through, turn over with canhook (spelling?). Then finish cut out of bark. Chain starts in clean cut and pulls out through possibly dirty bark.
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Yeah, I could use a pickaroon
The don’t bother with a timber jack. I got one of them thinking that they would be great but you only get one cut before you have to reset it too slow to be useful. The canthook works well for rolling them.
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I don’t think they need as much HP as they are being given.I would guess you could pull it off with a lot smaller motor.
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Your best bet might be to set it up on pallets so it is a comfortable cutting height. You only have to be careful of hitting nails in a couple of spots if you cut through too far.
Otherwise what they said. I usually buck in the woods as I don’t have the heavy eq. It however, becomes a different ballgame.
I have thought about setting up a big saw horse to hold the log with opens every 16 inches to indicate where to cut but I couldn’t figure out how to build it in a partial manner. The logs and sawing is just too abusive for everything I could think of. I have come to the conclusion that a friend might have been right when he told me setup my saw mill saw them to size then cut on a cord wood saw. I think this summer I will try that.
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Bill, you can use the same idea with your loader, but suspend the log from two points. Use a chain from each side of the bucket. No swing, no see saw. you can cut two or three chunks from each end before the log would tip.
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Well my log-on-the-ground cutting tip is to use a long enough bar to not have to bend/stoop.
For me this is 29 inches. Two of the three gas saws have 29 inch bars on them.
Most of my culled out knotty logs are too large to roll. Douglas fir has thick bark. Watch the chip eject carefully for the browner bark as a tip-STOP guide. Stop 3/4 ways through and tap in a plastic spreader wedge, or two.
Ha! With the long bars I had to go to safety chaps wearing. Old arms get tired and saw drooping between cuts and in a few hours in I was chainsnagging the thighs of my logger jeans. Double fronts are Not cheap jeans.
The chaps keep my legs drier and warmer, allowing longer working time.
Regards
J-I-C Steve Unruh
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