Tom I think the main benefit of the methanol being added would be you can open up your air damper a bit. Let it suck in more air and breathe easier. Maybe this would be best served with an automatic air adjuster like Bobmac and Dutch John have.
Personally I’d use methanol addition if you were to boost the engine. Have methanol being drawn through the turbo or supercharger, preventing any potential tar or soot buildup on the impeller or rubber wedges of a supercharger.
Thanks for saying what you did, TomH.
I too was night processing what I’d said. Was I right? Did I edgy go too far? Did I even have the right to say anything? The one shoulder angel telling me, “This time Idiot; you done eef’ed it up but good!!”
The other shoulder angel saying, No. It will be o.k. That boat needed a course correction nudging.
Tom, Cody, here’s a short belt driven supercharged B&S video.
Ha! I was actually trying to fine one particular well done turbo charged one. TOO many! I could not find the best-done, specific video. The turbo charger will be tiny, tiny specifically sized for small engines and be very close coupled mounted. And you’ll be able to hear the turbo’s thousands of RPM spooled up whine over the engine’s sounds.
The pervious I’d put up showing on the Warped Perception was too quiet, and not contributing.
Mechanical driven superchargers will be the way to go for woodgased engine systems.
They can as Goren showed in his historical illustration either blow; or suck the gasifier. And then blow the mix into the engine. Of course, one backfire blow, might just blow it up.
S.U.
Edit. O.K. that did not work. Typical. Search up on youtube for ChargerMiles007’s channel to find this. He does lots and lots of edgy things with B&S engines.
metric, imperial…gah, brain pains. Construction life, inches to tenthes, at percentage of fall in a pipe per foot, cut/fill to grade, percentage of slope. Anyone that worked in dirt under state and fed contracts knows these pains… my dad the perfectionist can see a grade hub from 60 yards and tell you how many tenths of a inch high or low it sits to the needed grade called for. Adapting your brain to think from one number to another in split seconds, doing the then math to calculate, and regurgitate the inch number back to the stupid hand holding the grade rod so he can understand it. Like I said brain pains.
then gas… to gas.
gasoline, a liquid fuel then atomized before injection, vs woodgas, a already gaseous fuel at its inception, delivered in its raw albeit filtered state direct to the motor. We should almost just call gasoline petroleum, for clarification. My first weeks here it was difficult reading to differentiate the 2 in any conversation. Still trips me up when I type out here my thoughts or experience, trying to communicate clearly for the newcomers to see what I actually mean to say
Confusling, Steve! he appears to have a LOT of supercharged briggs videos!
You never need to worry about anything you post to me SteveU. I believe we are all here trying to expand each others knowledge and working in each others best interest. I have seen no reason to doubt that.
Thumbs up Marcus. What’s so terrible about fractions anyway? And How does saying 350 cubic inches not sound way better than 5.7 liters and those two measurements only loosely equate anyway. I’m surprised that you ever dealt with inches at all. Still annoys the crap out of me that so many things are part metric bolted together and part fractional SAE.
Dont know where it is but somewhere in boxes from moving I have several tape measures, some inch only, some inch one side metric other side, some inch one side, tenths of foot other side, one tenths and metric. Confrubling to say the least when someone picks up any that aren’t inches only and cant use it
Many times confrublated. I heard it was not an asteroid that killed the dynosaurs but trying to adapt to unfamiliar conditions. Wood gas a case in point. I am a dynosaur.
As for me, a metric Swede, my interest in old technical stuff has helped me alot, as for bolts and fasteners we used alot of UNF, UNC, SAE, and like even into the -70:s, good to manage both metric and imperial i think.
But if converting fast, my brain just lock-up,
because of that i prefer, as for folding rulers the ones with both metric and inches, but them getting harder to get nowadays, where i live anyways.
As i have an interest in old rifles, muzzleloaders, it become hard to for example measuring bore’s and bullets, that was something new for me to count in thousand’s of an inch, at that time i got myself a digital vernier caliper, cheating maybe, but so easy, measuring in thousands, converting to metric just by pushing a button, really something i recomend.
Still has a hard time to remember imperial weight and volume measurements though
Goran, one way to remember is a Gallon is close to 4 Liters. Not precisely 4 Liters but it’s a good rule of thumb.
4 Quarts in a Gallon, so a Quart is close to a Liter
2 Pints per Quart
And 2 Cups per Pint
Fluid Ounce I know for sure takes 32 to a Quart and 8 to a cup
Thanks Cody, thats good to know, i used to think about motor-oil cans, there was a brand sold here before, now gone, that contained exactly a gallon, at the translated import-label i think it said 3,75 liters if I remember correctly, but a gallon should be 3,78 something?
Anyways it helps me remember.
As for a pint i’ve always have to check it up, as im interested i US car’s i’ve often seen “add a pint” at the auto-trans dipsticks, but can’t remember it, maybe should check the oil more often? 
I think an easier way to remember add a pint, is to use a half of a quart bottle of fluid.
Also when the dip stick for the engine oil is at the bottom dot, that means it’s a quart low. This is at least true for American cars.
It would be easier yet if the 1’s started at the same end. Then a quick glance would tell the story.
So, you’re not a beer-guy then 
I’ve learned to use percentages whenever possible.
Metric-SI-Imperial just drops out then.
Percentage you do have to realize each percent size/volume changes depending on whether you are working up or down from the base.
See here’s how.
G.K. slipped out that he overbored his Saab V-4 from 90mm pistons to 93mm pistons.
A 2.7% diameter increase.
Know his secret stroke then you could calculate his displacement increase in % or volume.
Street sneaky guys could stretch these out to ~2000cc with resultant need premium gasoline.
145-160 horsepower out of 122 cubic inches is not so much a stretch, eh.
S.U.
He, he, i used to be a beer-guy, not counting the volume, just had the motivation to drink ALL beer there was.
Not drinking anymore… 
Not remembering the “secret stroke” , but with these modifications it becomes a 1,8l (1815cc exactly, for the Saab-nerds) anyway this 145-160 hp isn’t much to write home about, but in percentage/ power increase it becomes much
Yes Don, this the drawing ruler I use, I was to lazy to go down stairs into shop to get my mechanical ruler with them starting on the same end. It is marked down to 1/32, 1/64 of inches, and mil.Meters.
Bob
Good Morning All,
I am reposting a recent exchange between MichaelG., J.O., and Al Frick. Read this one #447 and the next two: #448 and #449:
What MichealG and Al F. are saying (as predicted) gasoline needs more air oxygen to get close to stochiometric complete burning then the three much simpler with less carbons chains, woodgas fuel gases.
And who predicted this? In books by actual math’s using chemists. Four of those books here in the DOW library.
Using mole mass calculations they also say diesel fuel needs MUCH more air-oxygen than can ever just be atmospheric pressure drawn into an IC engines cylinder. Why exhaust turbocharging diesel engines makes then wake up and come lively alive.
And in the above three post exchange J.O. with two different gasoline fuel injected four cylinder vehicles; says he observes different results, one system to the next.
Different systems factors always able to skew the results.
This also reinforced by Mark Cunninghams better results after he tweaked with the air into his diesel/chargas hybrid water pumping system:
And read Tone next comment there. He does use math’s. Acknowledges only real world using can account for all of the variable factors.
On any of these forums favor the actual users and their results over the endless speculators. No matter how well read, or other life chapters experienced they may be.
Make woodgas your own Endeavor. With you; your own Expert.
Steve Unruh
Steve, apart from what I think is the Volvo’s a crappy spray pattern at low fuel pressure, I think there’s a difference in, either the pressure regulator setup, or fuelpump response.
I use the same type pwm for both vehicle’s fuelpumps. The Mazda injectors seem to get very little fuel until close to 12V is reached. The Volvo’s injectors on the other hand, seem to get fuel pretty much in proportion to the voltage setting.
Both systems are return line systems and both are syphoning slightly, why I use extra swithes to kill the injectors.
Another difference is the Mazda’s MAF sensor seems to recognize when I squeeze the air mixing valve and the computer cuts back somewhat on gasoline, even though there’s no oxy sensor. Apart from that, any hybriding is done manually - air mixing valve vs pump voltage.
The Volvo has an oxy sensor but together with woodgas it seems unable to regulate injector timing within the range required for hybriding. But what’s even more confusing, is that by-passing the MAF (pulling air through a cold gasifier) doesn’t bother it at all. I remember Al @trikebuilder57 mounted a throttle body for a woodgas valve, to prevent air to sneak by when running gasoline. Same sneaking problems with my Mazda truck - easy accelerations required - it runs terribly lean on gaso-lean. On woodgas it’s like a Swiss clock - steady and accurate 
