That is called a passive solar house with a masonary heater.
That is probably the best book on the topic of passive solar design I have seen and I read plenty of them. I was planing on building just such a home before I moved back to the farm.
I even considered starting a company designing homes like that off grid.
That is the best general reference on masonary heaters I have seen. There is also a really nice Russian design for a masonary heater designed to heat water as a boiler. I am sure a search here for masonary heater will bring you to an old posting of mine about that design. I toy with the idea of building one of those here on the farm but never get started on it.
The biggest thing about passive solar design is setting up the thermal mass so it doesnât get heated by the sun in the summer but that is easy enough to do as the angle of the sun will allow you to design seasonal shade into the house structure.
One could assume, that there is no silver bullet for any house with any kind of usage. E.g. masonry heaters are excellent for house âbuild aroundâ that heater, inhabitated all years round 24/7 and with low temp even in sunny summer. If you use such a house only as weekend hut, you find out very soon that you feel cold two days just to say goodbye to room that started to become pleasantly warm on Sunday evening.
This is not always the case. A 3000 kg thermal mass can be heated in two or three hours and be used to keep a house warm for one day.
Rindert
PS: I am not here to sell anything. There are also many other good books and study materials out there. https://permies.com/t/40993/Ernie-Erica-Wisner-Rocket-Mass
Well I have never had the peoblem of owning a home I didnât live in but if I did I would probably either have a wood stove in the house with no running water or I would have a thermal mass heated by solar PV as it would have all week to store electricity and keep the house warm with a cold start boiler as backup. But really a heated home that you use on the weekends only is too rich for me.
I speak from my own real experience. My parents bought weekend house when I was twelve. It is pretty small cottage with large living room taking 2/3 of ground floor. Two bedrooms onder the roof. Two old people used it as summer house from May to October.
This big room had a large mass ceramic tiles furnace. Pretty nice work. Very similar to masonry heaters you refer to. Those people who owned it before us liked it so much, because they were used to live there continuosly for half an year and weather in 60â and 70â were quite colder here then now it is. The house is build from two feet thich sandstone, so eeven in hot summer it was cold inside. They heated the furnace during first weekend when they come in and than just keep it more or less warm with small amount of wood for next half year.
Our experience was much worst, as I already wrote. The fastest mean of heated was that âgasification basedâ heater called Satan.
It burns sawdust with amazing blast of gas flame, is of most simple construction and one barrel batch could last with throttled air input for whole night. If one have cheap source of sawdust, its great local heater. When connected to some sort of heat exhanger or brick work, it could heat whole house.
The tiny house was a weekend rental and not the main house . I do not know how often it is occupied . Similar to public mountain cabins for use by hikers . Except you make a reservation and pay in advance .
True home heating is full H-VAC considerations.
No where in this topic stream does any talk about the importance of the V=ventilation.
My âonly 72%â efficient updrafting wood stove can evacuate from the occupied spaces a true one pound of moistures from all sources in each and every hour.
For at maximum of 2 1/2 gallons equivalent in a 24 hour period.
And I operate for this to be maximumized. No blowers. No electronics. In fact no electricity to do this.
I may live in a temperate marine area having by necessity an awareness of this . . . oh . . . 300 day in the year.
But all must allow for Ventilation-humidity/air changes refreshing, extremes control for periods of time in each and every year.
Much, much more to whole house health that just heats-made; energy not-used bragging numbers.
Only when you account for ventilation-humidity/air-change control will your musings be realistic.
The reality of this is in your to-date living experiences. Search back there.
Or . . . go put on a full set of upper and lower rain gear with boots and learn quickly. Move around. Work in that. Wont take you more than a couple of hours to learn.
S.U.
Kamil,
This very interesting! The three animal feet make me think it is old. I want to know how it works. Can it produce charcoal? Is it really a TLUD? Sawdust is usually thrown away here. Please tell me more about this.
Rindert
Danny Moore had a sawdust stove at Argos a few years back. He made it out of a 30 and 55 gal barrels. IIRC it ran 8 hrs on a 30 gallon fill-up. I thought I had a picture of it but canât seem to find it. It might be on one of the past Argos picture thread. Simple build but donât think I would use it in my house shop would be good though.
I think better to spend time building than drawing. I can do that too. I went to engineering school. I can make thousands of beautiful drawings. But this is not productive.
Rindert
The device is made from two pieces, as you may see at the photo I posted earlier. The stand serve also as a top lid with smoke exhaust for removable cartridge. Cartridge itself is a simple barrel with air intake at the bottom. Intake has 2" diameter followed by the intake tunnel some 4" length. The tunnel is cut round atop at the end to allow pipe or pole of same diameter to be put inside from top.
To fill the cartridge with sawdust, you stand it on the firm ground. Put one pole which fits into the cut end of air intake tunnel. While hold it stand upright, pour some 4" of sawdust at the bottom of the cartridge. Use second pole of roughly the same diameter to hammer the sawdust until it get densely packed. The more densely packed the better. Especially around the end of air intake tunnel hard packing is essential to prevent sawdust falling and clogging the tunnel. Add more sawdust and hammer it in the same manner. Continue until you have cartridge filled almost to the top (leave 1/2" free). Carefuly get out the pole out of the packed sawdust in the cartridge. The best way is rotating and pulling together. Sawdust which fall during this operation and block the intake has to be removed. The desired result is something like large sawdust pellet with hole in the center packed in the cartridge.
The cartridge is fastened into stand by swinging rim, as you may see in the photo. It is lit through the air intake easily by gas burner or with piece of paper or wood wool. You only need good draft from your chimney
It burns quite fast if you do not restrict the intake by rotating flap mounted at the front of it. Usually smoke tube get red hot in less then ten minutes since ignition. The top of stand serve as stove top. We were used to heat there hot water in 5 gallon cauldron.
Thanks Kamil, We have this kind of thing too. Old style stoves are expected to make a little smoke. Here you can see USDA stove from 1974 https://www.nrs.fs.fed.us/pubs/rn/rn_ne208.pdf I think we know how to make it better, because we know about tluds. Please add your thoughts.
Rindert
Definitely, the concept is the same, @r_wesseling. That USDA piece is little bit more complex while certainly providing better heat distribution than our Satan. I also would warry a little about the air intake at the bottom, where it could be easily blocked by falling fuel. Also cover lid at the top prevent inspection during burning and most probably one have to wait till inner barrel cartridge cools down before exchange. If it is exhangeable.
I inspected burning many times and never spotted any smoke. The fire is very clean since the start and after getting hot enough it works like good rocket stove. So I assume no secondary air is needed for improvement.
If I would like to improve efficiency, I would focus on heat distribution by either hot air heat exchanger or let smoke run through masonry heater.
Shows the chimney system room internal; and building external
Shows actual operational details. Loading, prepping. Liting. Do nots.
The outer barrel jacket can be had here in the USofA in stainless steel. Not cheap. But true safety and 10+ year longevity never is.
S.U.
Here you can see USDA stove from 1974 
