Mr. Steve, I agree with you, but first I will embody with a little Kubota, to learn, even if I destroy everything there will be no great harm, probably Joep thinks so too, but it is also true that we are Europeans, especially us from the south , accustomed to small cars, small engines modest life and do things with their hands and head 
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Ha, and they are good this year . Maybe I bring you some in the future, who knows.
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Ha, that is to much to reply direct.
My brand! Very rare over here.
And yes, of course two legs is bether. Common sense (farmer sense in Dutch) is the best aproach.
And what about two crankshaft turning counterwise? Realy no fibrations. But first that screamy one cylinder, the rest will come.
Me too! Only one minor detail, put into pratice is soooo difficult. The cold numbers tell me my plans are insane. Ok, learning money/time then.
Thanks, it is exact what got me out of my lazy armchair.
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The walnut is gone, only problems and unsolvable technology remain. Joep I see you recalculating calories and efficiencies or raw wood or charcoal, that’s the question now, Hamlet’s thinking, … For me the answer is clear, raw wood and a dot. Gas from a gasifier on wood is inappropriately more caloric than on charcoal, look at how much combustible gas is emitted when cooking charcoal, all the hydrogen in the wood is bound to pure oxygen and quite a bit of carbon. I am only interested in one thing, under what conditions is methane formed in the gasification process? I don’t know what to offer for a reward, gratitude …
I miss saying anything smart to Jo carving out a little technical discussion. 
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Those are numbers Tone, nothing more. The big plus with charcoal is, it can run with little or no attention. And I am totally inexperienced, and then there is missing the operator 75% right from the start. And on top of that I am always provoking Murphy but never got the chance to shoot him.
Look at my charcoal making, how simple is it? Well for me it is the Mount Everest, and then gasification has to get started. 
Waiting for Cody s WK design or maybe Ben design. But those are things you dont put together on a saturday. And if those get messed up, there is really a lot of time lost.
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Hi Joep,
I know the Netherlands. You have a very wet climate there. Here in Colorado, United States it is extremely dry. We fear wild fires like Nederlanders fear floods.
I have easy success making charcoal with a TLUD because I can always find very dry wood, and the humidity is also very low, so it is easier for a TLUD to work. I suggest you try a Hookway style charcoal maker. youtube search: James hookway retort.
Rindert
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Who me?
You might be disappointed. While I’m utilizing Wayne’s form factor the guts will be Joni style. I have already submitted a drawing to him and got his approval, I wanted to make sure the dimensions were sufficient for my engine.
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Dankjewel Rindert. I started with a Hookway, but like many guys couldnt get it hot enough. Maybe or probably the wet feedstock or climate. Working on that. TLUD is the first method that worked right away. I want to give that other method one serious try, from the Living Web Farms. I hope the yield is a little better.
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Joep, I promise I won’t weigh you down anymore, just a few thoughts and observations on wood gasification. Every calorie we lose during gasification gives us a weaker gas, so the gasifier must be completely insulated and the condensation zone cooled. It is good to have the lid on at a higher temperature so that only tar drips into it in the middle. If the raw wood in the gasifier is properly heated, it will not stick, as the tar can be liquid and the material flows nicely. For the construction of the heart itself, the size of the length, the diameter, I am of the opinion at the moment, better a little bigger with lower speeds than too small, as this leaves an excess of charcoal.
These observations and facts I observe in testing and also summarize from the explanations and experiences of experts in this forum.
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Totally true Tone, but main goal for the yanmar is to get some experience and it can run more or less unattended. Starting with wood and put the thing in a corner and expect it to deliver heat and power is not a real expectation. I only get disappointed that way and bail out. Please keep everything coming, we are on the same path, you are only miles and miles ahead. Thanks.
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A little update. Noise is almost acceptable. Changed exhaust from aircooled to watercooled, hoping it would take some noise away. High frequency is almost gone, low is a disaster. This wont last for long. The unit is dancing again, more homework
Anyway, I am getting closer.
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Does anyone have a tip wich kind of flex exhaust to buy? This piece is airtight but not to flex, everything started dancing again.
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If you are trying to figure out in which direction the vibrations are being transmitted and change the installation location as close to the engine as possible, you are now far away. Attach the outlet to the base.
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https://www.walmart.com/ip/Walker-Exhaust-51110-Exhaust-Flex-Connector/109100408
The second one is the same bellows formed solid pipe section. The added outer woven SS layer is for under vehicle safety.
European these are automotive used too. Use what is most common available cheapest. Favor one with flanges for easy replacements. Vibrations and time; and these will eventually crack and leak.
The spiral wound formed exhaust flex-piping joints wears quickly in vibrations applications and leaks throughout.
S.U.
S.U.
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Thanks Mr Steve, I tought I heard that before from you, now I am sure. The easiest is not always the best.
Just bought some exhaust seal in plate form. Didnt know that exists. Flanges are no problem. It takes longer to sketch them then plasma cut.
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Wow, good idea. It has to go up anyway.
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