Everything is new for me. From woodgas to generators to batteries etc. The wheel is tacked, maybe weld it. Concrete is quite heavy, lead is expensive, any advise?
Last time I saw 10 A on amp meter and 3 kW on power meter. Amp should be 6 A, the flywheel should correct this. Wheel is scrap from an installation update. Waste to throw way and fits nicely.
Tone triggered me to play with the dieselpump and governor. Good enough to try and see what the compr ratio does to woodgas.
Hi Joep, what if you use a flywheel from a waste engine from a car, it is nicely balanced and there are unlimited quantities of them …
I also started my engine today to see how the gas mixer behaves, …
Observations:
I had grout filled motorcycle tires on my saw mill originally, thinking that the weight when rotating would compensate for the small engine. They vibrated badly. I had to buy new tires and scrap the flywheel ones. I don’t think there is any way to balance them.
Ok, maybe skip the flywheel. It doesnt bother me. The fan just fits nice, thats all. Balancing is no problem, I do that all the time. Filling the wheel and let it spin 3000 rpm without breaking is.
Ok Tone, you are working on a diesel also? Making more progress then me. In my head, everything would be running at the end of today, even the chargas part….only switched a motor.
Gasifier got to have a low pressure drop then, if you want to run a diesel engine?
That sounds like someone I know really well 
Joep, Could you make a flywheel out of laminated plates, cut with CNC plasma machine? Steel would hold together at 1500 / 3000 RPM, plates would not have to be matching thickness, not too hard to balance? Add bolted together plates until it works as you wish. 
not the worst idea ever!!
I like your metal-encased concrete, it’s the RPM that makes it scary.
Thanks. I think that is to only option. Thanks.
And another one for the srapyard. Not the wheel but the motor is coming home this time. 5,5 kW 50 Hz.
Joep, I use a flywheel from a scrapped stationary bike on my rebak. Good or bad idea for your application - I don’t know.
Ha. That s a good one too. No hurry. First the new motor. It is getting colder by the day.
Anxious to see if my plan work out.
Hi Joep, I see you will use an asynchronous motor as a generator. Whether you intend to operate in the network or independently, I ask because the independent operation of the asynchronous generator is not easy (changing the size of the excitation capacitors), and operating in the network with the network is easy, only to improve the reactive current you can add a capacitor. I will also replace my synchronous generator with an asynchronous one, …
Thanks, Tone. I had a not satisfying weekend, nothing to show. Found a little leak in the exhaust, smelly mess. Really rethinking about putting this thing inside a building. Tried the gasifier but clogged, then to satisfy my feeling started the TLUD and that one also gave a bad start. Did some weighting. 35 kg wood in. 4 kg charcoal out. I think it burned to long, that can do much better. I calculated to kWh, simply because that is the electricity counted for. And it is an easy calculation. Wood is around 4 kWh/kg and charcoal around 8 kWh/kg. Check, double check to btu, joules etc , thanks Matt. That means I put in 140 kWh and get 40 kWh out in charcoal. I little disappointing, but I see thos numbers on other places also, around 30%. Important to use that energy or convert wood to shaftpower direct.
But anyway, you mentioned pump and governor. Played with the governor, adjusted it to run 3050 rpm under load (3100 no load) and screwed the pump to just hit the plate. Next step is woodgas and srew down the pump. Thanks, good tips. It ran a steady 3.5 kW. I think it took that half kW because of the direct drive, no pulleys any more. So it is a stock asyn motor, 5,5 kW, grid tied. No problems, never, with the grid here. So very easy and simple connection. I love it! No capacitors needed, really KISS.
Fixed a exhaust cooling tube with fins but still to hot into the exhaust filter and trying to ignite the charcoal granulate there.
Even I cant find the exhaust cooler on my own picture. The one that finds it, wins a bucket with wallnuts.
Hello JoepK,
A man with honest energy budget numbers. How rare. Most add in a big “E” factor for Enthusiasm. Or maybe a big “P” factor for Passion.
Your exhaust cooler? I cannot decide. The black painted muffler box with three across the top; and two side shown shiny bolts/screws? Close coupled. Good.
Or the tall vertical column behind your flex jointed vertical exiting exhaust pipe? Would seem too far distanced.
Or the open topped stainless steel cylinder? It; like the green nozzle fuel can, seems not on the engine/gen-head base.
S.U.
Haha, I really cant see it. Spend the days making quotes in my office (kitchen table). Time to do something.
The E and P are there, not really shown yet. I am still not sure how it ran on woodgas. The P for passion was always there. The E was with the TLUD. I made a little dance around, I hope nobody saw that. Called someone in the village right away to share the victory (we share the same energy tic, he is a retired teacher).
Anyway, you need P and E, but without cold numbers you are getting nowhere. Time is always short.
Joep, because I know that you are a good master, I am sure that you have replaced the existing muffler with a heat exchanger, so you also partially cool the engine itself, …
Here is a better picture. Started from stock muffler
From there up and down to the exhaust filter. Later added fins, helped a little.
Because the muffler is removed and less restriction?
Looking for nails on low tide, is a saying in Holland. Would that help?
Nothing will be buckets of nuts, Mr. Steve was closer, sniff, sniff,.,
Tone, you have the same plans as me. Talking about mufflers, what are you going to do to get the noise to an acceptable level?
The device will be outside in a closed isolated room, and the exhaust gases will be routed through a large car muffler
This will not help you both, as you are committed to what you have. But an exhaust noise reduction “discovery” that had me do a 180 degree approach change. A change away from small diesels. Then a change away from long-hours usage single cylinder engines.
First is was up close for hours to an air cooled Kohler V-twin on my portable sawmill. Then a Generac brand V-twin 17kw system Ben Peterson had bought for a sold project system. Both were very exhaust system quiet. Later I operated V-twin Hondas, Harbor Freight Predator V-twin engines. And then even sized up to a fuel injected air cooled Kohler V-twin engine in a Miller brand 12kW welder-generator. And finally confirmed why-how?? on another up-sized Kawasaki aircooled V-Twin in our new (five years ago) riding lawnmower.
These all had opposing ends, entry muffler systems. The exhaust pulsation energies are then cancelling themselves out.
And the upper cylinders and heads tied together by the intake and exhaust system was dampening the air projected combustion and internal engines noise energies.
Ha! These non-ideal; uneven spaced combustion event engines were quieter that smaller single cylinder engines. Running RPM smoother that even the larger single cylinder engines with internal counter rotating balance shafts.
I think it was all of the loud split individual exhaust motorcycles that had me avoiding V-twins all of these years.
Or my own minimalist Less-Is-More adopted philosophy taken out too far extremes. I do that too much. One cylinder just must be better than two or more.
Nope. Not true; when all dynamic factors are accounted for.
Ha! Ha! Now try this.
Hop up and down on one leg. Difficult.
Hop up and down with both arms spread out horizontal like air plane wings. You cannot help but flap! The opposed cylinders boxer engines. Noise makers.
Now. Hop up and down on both legs slight V spread. Easy. Smooth. Stable. Jumping rope hour after hour is very possible.
Yes. Yes. I am known for my horrible, non-scientific examples. My Enthusiasm. My Passion for helping others to see-feel from the inside out.
Steve Unruh
