Good, good, JanA.
You have come to the right conclusion for your circumstances.
Ok for fellows in areas without any Gov’mint inspections and requirements to resurrect an old worn-out, rusted out shell of a vehicle for the fun of the project. To then be able to drive around the rare, obscure and unusual.
For us in inspected and mandated and restricted areas though a vehicle such as this once it needs a major component replaced . . . then time to “bone-it-out”; disassemble and sell off all the possible pieces for any value to yourself or others.
With the right mind set that can be a challenge fun too.
Younger man I did this many, many times.
I had to learn to live with Gov’mint inspections and restrictions for more decades than without them.
My s10a screams like a bearing failure in neutral and park, smokes a little under the engine on the left side from the front and a cable caught fire on the right side, when I was checking the oil, what do I do.
It could be a bearing failure. Did you check the transmission fluid? It is a manual or automatic transmission?
What year is it? One of the 2.4l was (and still is) mainly sold in Brazil as a flex fuel vehicle. It might be manufactured there as well. But there are 3 generations of the s10, and I find nothing googling for s10a arizona.
Yes, I checked the oil (tried, I think I did it right) it’s an automatic transmission 4.3 liters 1995a, talked to the neighbor, he suggested that it could be the starter motor that was in it, there was a little smoke from that side of the engine before the cable burned out on the left side in the engine compartment.
I think it’s a little strange that I didn’t hear anything strange when there was a gear in.
The smoke is might be this… ?
“the problem your father encountered wasnt bad motors, or bad rings for that matter.
the problem was that the pre -vortec heads, had crappy inferior valve seals, that routinely wore out between 40-60k miles. if you still have the old motors , i would keep them for spares, cause all they need is a 16 dollar set of valve seals!!!”
from https://www.s10forum.com/threads/bad-batch-of-4-3l-engines-in-early-90s.111181/
Thanks, but I think I found part of the problem.
Something has caused the starter to engage when I have neutral or parking,
I don’t know if it’s the ignition switch or something else, I had a short circuit on the cable that goes to + up by the screen, coming from the generator, I touched the cable to the solenoid, then the short circuit went away, so I don’t really know what the cause is yet, but I have to buy a new starter.
I would guess a bad starter solenoid. Sometimes they can be replaced without replacing the whole starter, but I don’t know on the s10.
Just to be more thorough…
s10 4.3l 1995 common problems
Here are some common problems associated with the 1995 Chevy S10 with the 4.3L engine:
Engine Related:
Fuel System:
Central Port Injection (CPI) System Leaks: The 4.3L Vortec engine (VIN code "W") used in this era had a problematic CPI system.
Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) Leaks: The FPR, located in the intake plenum, is prone to leaking, causing a rich fuel condition and rough running.
Fuel Line Leaks (Inside Intake): Plastic fuel lines within the intake manifold can crack and leak, flooding the engine.
Spider Injector Issues: Some sources mention the spider injector can be a source of trouble, but replacement along with the FPR can resolve issues.
Intake Manifold Gasket Leaks: Intake manifold gaskets are known to leak coolant or engine oil.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS): These components on the throttle body can clog or degrade, leading to rough idle, stalling, and reduced performance.
Distributor Cap: The plastic distributor cap can warp due to heat, causing misfires and other engine problems.
EGR Valve: EGR valves can stick open, causing stalling and rough idling.
Excessive Oil Consumption: Some 4.3L engines experienced excessive oil consumption, sometimes related to the Active Fuel Management (AFM) system.
Other Common Issues:
Cooling System:
Heater Core Leaks: Heater cores are a known weak spot and can leak coolant.
Coolant Leaks: Be aware of potential coolant leaks from hoses, the radiator, or the water pump.
Transmission:
Shift Solenoid Issues: Some automatic transmissions experienced problems shifting gears, possibly due to sticking shift valves or faulty solenoids.
Electrical:
ABS Light: ABS light issues may point to problems with the brake system control unit.
Brakes:
Brake Booster Issues: Some owners have reported problems with the brake booster affecting pedal feel and braking power.
Hi Jan, could be the ignition switch, those often get bad on s10,s. I had to replace it in my s10, put in a universal one, and scrapped the steering wheel lock.
Next inspection there was a new rule: original anti theft protection MUST work as intended, just to start looking for a complete steering column at the scrap-yards, they was as rare as chicken teeth… if i only hadnt cut off the steering wheel lock…
Nowadays i think the electric switch unit is available new pretty cheap.
Yes, I suspect that too, since the starter motor only went into park and neutral, should it be the signal from the gear lever that caused this, and then the signal from the ignition switch should be on all the time?
Strangely enough, I tried putting back the cable that burned after I poked the cable down by the solenoid and then the impulse to the starter motor worked, but the ignition switch can be loose so it works sometimes.
They could have it wired so the starter motor cuts out when it gets put in gear. A safety feature, More for manual, where you try to start it and it is in gear and the vehicle moves.
It might be a faulty ignition switch. Does the switch automatically retract to the ‘on’ position? When you start it you turn it past ‘on’ to engage the starter and it is supposed to turn back to the ‘on’ position if you aren’t applying pressure like after you are started it. The spring might be broken. On earlier vehicles, i think, we talked about actually replacing that spring, but I don’t know if you can on those.
The AC Delco version is 100 bucks on amazon for me, but there might be more then 1 version for that model depending on the steering column and possibly how many airbags it has.
Before I replaced the switch, I would squirt some graphite in the ignition switch keyhole and turn it a bunch of times. It lubricates it without gummy residue.
If it works, most likely it will be temporary, but it allows you to use it, until you can schedule a down time.
Yes, only working in park or neutral tells that from gearbox safety switch and starter and inbetween works as it should. Probably ignition switch staying in “crank” position, it can do that even if key returns to ign as it should.
Another common problem is if the steering column is tilt-able (but i don’t think s10 had that option?) wiring often get bent enough to break the insulation, or even get pinched.
If you going to fix it easy, use a push-button switch as you suggests, make sure to use it through the gearbox safety interlock (park, neutral) It’s ruled by inspection. And keep the key switch, with steering wheel lock, also inspection rule.
And yes, it often works after you cut the circuit, the switch gets “sloppy”, when starting the contact points gets “spot-welded” together, and the spring-return aren’t enough to get them apart/ open again.
Those of you who understand electricity, if the relay doesn’t release, does the starter motor run all the time?
I’ve replaced the starter motor and put in a button between yellow and red at the ignition switch, but it sounds like the motor doesn’t turn off when I release the button.
I’m not sure if that’s the right diagram, but I think so.
Jan, I would install a switch here, so you have the option to turn off the power supply to the relay if the contacts stick, but definitely check the relay, open the plastic housing and sand the switch contacts.
If you have another relay to swap in there you could find out for sure if it is the relay that is causing the issue. Maybe the A/C or headlight switch relay?
Jan there are a number of mechanical possibilities in the actual starter, its piggybacked actuation solenoid; and the replacement starter installation that can cause staying engaged too.
But since you had the problem before starter assembly replacement focus on the external activation circuits first.
So with a test light is the turn on wire to the starter solenoid remaining hot/live after key switch release and spring back return to run?
You can test this baring the wire going into the under-hood relay center. Your diagram says PPL for purple.
If it stays hot go backwards to the relay then to the actual true electrical ignition switch testing.
Poke thru the circuit wire anywhere accessible with the light probe tip. Tape wrap later. Have bandaid when you poke-stab your holding finger.
S.U.
I removed the starter motor and put it on the ground, and tested it with cables from the original place, then the starter motor worked fine.
There are 4 identical relays under the hood, and I have no idea if any of these are for the starter, none of the colors match on the cables,
I have switched these back and forth, it could be that what made the starter work on the ground
There is a diagram somewhere that shows what relay goes to what. If you switched them and it worked right, then it is a relay, they are mechanical and can fail.
You can also check them with a multimeter, the power side is a normally open circuit if it is stuck closed, it will show continuity, or no resistance using the ohm (Ω) resistance scale. if it is open it will show basically an error like the two probes aren’t touching each other. The control side should normally have 0v going to it unless it is engaged. Then if the relay checks out and doesn’t fix the problem, then you can at least determine what side of the relay you need to to work on. When you work on cars that might have issues, they might also be wired incorrectly.
