Hi Jan, i try to check if the meter works this weekend (if i get time for it)
If it works it yours for free, only shipping, ofcourse Santa paid to much for shipping the gearbox axle 
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Thank you Goran.
I could pick it up too, if itâs expensive to send, but then it will be the Volvo, the s10 runs on petrol after the cat change.
@JO_Olsson what co values should you have on the volvo and mazda, consider if it would work on my low values with pwm?
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Finally, I put in a pwm, I finally found the ground wire on top of the tank, and plugged in the pwm. didnât work, finally I saw that the fuse was broken.
Connected the things again, and tested, no result, changed the connection 2 times to no result, yes, it must be broken then.
Then I saw the fuse that was lying next to it on the floor, put it in and then it worked.
(Wondering if I should sit in the rocking chair and rock a little instead.)
@JO_Olsson , do you always have the voltage through the pwm when running on petrol?
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Haha! Sounds like something I would do 
Yes I do, but I have a switch in series and itâs in the off-position 99% of the time anyway 
Also, I have a second switch to kill the injection - or it will syphone slightly.
How does your engine react to low voltage? At minimum setting (1,5V) I can still maintain an idle. To maintain 2500 rpm the Mazda needs 10-11V, but the Volvo only 3-4V.
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I donât know at all how many volts it puts out, Iâve only tested at home on the farm that I can get the engine to slow down, I ran out of battery, so have to charge the battery before I test more. It will be interesting to see if the co level goes down when I turn on the pwm, if Göranâs meter works.
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Hi Jan, sorry, bad news, i canât get the co-meter working, seems itâs the âanalyzing cellâ (donât know what itâs called) everything else works.
I will report if i get it running, or come up with something else 
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Quite a few meters on Amazon for under $50 US. Seems like a good tool to have regardless.
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Yes, Iâve looked at these, but they only measure up to 1000ppm, and my car is supposed to have 5000ppm at idle and 3000ppm at 2500rpm, so I donât think these are enough.
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Finally, 0.1 at idle and 0.3 at 2500rpm.
Changed the erg valve, thanks Cody, but wasnât enough for 2500, had to screw on the pwm, got it down a bit, so that was enough, thanks JO.
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Huzzah! Itâs good you changed your EGR valve, it will definitely help with performance. Is it actuated by a vacuum line, or is it controlled by the computer?
I am very glad our emissions tests in my state depend on the engine computer instead of a Tailpipe Sniffer. The PWM trick is definitely one to keep in mind.
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Yes, but Iâm wondering if I shouldnât plug the egr valve, (itâs data controlled), I think itâs involved and lets exhaust gases into the intake at higher revs, maybe thatâs why the lambda sensor says itâs too low in oxygen, when I run on wood, that would be in line with the inspection.
Now I had 1.25 on the lambda, so very little petrol, yet it was just that the co content dropped to 0.3.
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Yes, the EGR should only activate at certain intervals.
Itâs usually activated when cruise control is on, above a certain threshold RPM. Iâm still unsure how in my friendâs case with his 1989 Jeep it activated at Idle of 600. Maybe the return spring had broken. It was vacuum activated.
Itâs meant to increase fuel efficiency and I believe help the system run cooler.
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Congratulations Jan. One more year of trouble free cruizing on wood to look forward to.
Maybe after next years inspection you only need to inspect every other year. The truck is a -95, right?
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Yes, itâs a 95a, now I was a little happier if I only need to inspect every other year.
But if I can only understand why the co is struggling, itâs probably going well, right now when I started driving on wood, the engine light came on, too low oxygen level on the lambda on bank 1, strange.
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On 100% wood I wouldnât worry if the light is on. With a manual air/mix weâre all probably a bit off most of the time. The light on the Volvo comes on about every other trip I make.
On 100% gasoline - apart from the stuck egr - I wonder if soot may have something to do with the CO-reading. You mentioned rockerarm noice at the 2500rpm test. Happens to me sometimes when a flake of soot let go and get stuck in the seat of an intake valve. It sometimes takes several miles of forging to even out. Could maybe a small amount of soot spoof the meter and somehow give a higher than normal CO-reading? Just guessing.
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No then, Iâm not worried about the light, I can read what it warns of.
Itâs just a pity that I donât understand this, it was quite fixed at 0.1 co on the idle after the inspection meter, but at 2500 it was up to 1.6 co for a while, and when I used pwm the value went down a little, but by so little gasoline and such a high co value, so it doesnât burn the gasoline, and it should be oxygen that is missing?
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Where is your oxygen sensor located? Before or after the cat, or both?
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I have one before and one after, it is the lambda before that warns of low oxygen content.
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Oh, I was under the impression you had a high oxygen content (1,25?). If so, I was thinking in the terms of partially burning soot in the cat creating CO.
Remember, this is only wild bed time speculating from my part 
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