It was lamdan as said 1.25. so very little fuel.
I change the catalytic converter before inspection, so it has only run a few miles and only on petrol.
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@ForbiddenTuna Cody, do you know what these are for, does it have anything to do with the egr valve?
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I’m not entirely sure. Judging by the vacuum line it looks like it’s either fuel or transmission related?
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I found what the valves are for next to the intake, it’s for the carbon canister, wondering if this can affect the carbon content?
I tried blowing the pipe from these valves to the intake, it seems to be tight.
Also thinking about the egr valve, when I changed this the values went down a lot, could it be soot that it lets into the intake that affects the co values?
@JO_Olsson , do you have any values on the volvo or mazda at 2500rpm on co?
Sorry for the questions about co, but don’t like that I don’t understand how this works.
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No, I’m sorry. It seems up until -92 they check only the idle CO and the limit is 4.5. My vehicles are -91 and -92.
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I’ve had problems with the idle for a while, and can’t find anything wrong.
This morning I cleaned the ash hatch and the cyclone, in the ash hatch there was only about 2 liters (0.5 gallons) but under the cyclone it was about 8 liters (2 gallons).
I only drive spruce and pine, so there will be a lot of soot, but does that indicate that the grate is quite dense?
I have driven 257 kilometers (160 miles) since I last emptied.
Does anyone know how I can log in to the computer, I’ve forgotten my password and can’t figure out where to change the password either?
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Jan, I find a restrictive system - charbed, filter or whatever - to be the no1 reason for a slow idle problem. Even only condensation in any low spot - creating a bubbler - will throw the air-mix off at an idle.
About 10 liter or 2.5 ga a week is what I collect for about the same distance too. Longer trips, running consistantly harder, will consume more char and there will be less slipped for the same distance. In your case - collecting the majority in the cyclone - I think would indicate that you have been driving pretty hard at some point lately 
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I’m not sure if you mean how can you change or reset the password for this forum.
From my phone I pushed on my user icon (a “B” in a circle in my case at the top right in the screen shot above).
That brought up this menu where I selected “Preferences”.
Where I circled on the first picture I had to hit the little down arrow to bring up another menu where I selected “Security”
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Thank you, it worked instantly.
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I tested the vacuum in the hopper, it was at 4-5mbar, at 2000rpm about 1.6-2 inches.
The car runs very well, I think I have a leak.
Was thinking about a smoke machine, do you know anything that produces a lot of smoke?
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Old natural fibers ropes.
Sisal.
Hemp.
Even cotton fiber.
S.U.
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Also straw or hay. Look up Bee Smoker for other ideas
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If you have a ventilation/chimney sweeper company nearby you could ask them for some smoke cartridges (rökpatroner)
They are also available at net stores.
There are also some building instructions on the web for smoke generators/leak detectors, i built one frome a coffee pot, with a piece of stove-rope winded with some turns of nichrome wire from an old electric stove. Some barbecue lighting fluid in the bottom, that the stove rope sucks like a wick gives lots! of stinking smoke.
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Theatrical smoke machines and model train smoke units use something similar to common food grade mineral oil (from the pharmacy or drug store). Heated to the smoke point with nichrome wire “resistor”. Like Goran mentioned.
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Here’s the smoke machine I built.
It’s just a piece of 4 inch pvc pipe with a screw on cap on the top. I threaded an air regulator on one side and an air line quick connect on the other side with a piece of hose pushed on. Instead of spending the money for a big pipe cap on the bottom I cut a piece of the 4 inch pcv and heated it up with a hot air gun, flattened it out, and glued it to the bottom.
Inside is a chunk of big stove rope wrapped with nichrome wire. Looks like the last time I used it I put some used motor oil in it to make the smoke.
I hook it to either a car battery using jumper cables or to a power supply. When I built it I adjusted the length of nichrome wire to produce smoke but not get hot enough to melt the wire or start a fire. It’s been a while but I think it was around 4 amps @ 12 volts.
I mostly use it to find exhaust leaks but I’ve also used it to find leaks in my gasifier. It was supposed to use mineral oil but I guess the used oil was closer last time.
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@Woodrunner Göran, which is best to let the gas in at the top or bottom of the filter, I avoid a bend and a bit of a pipe if I let the gas in at the top, but will hit the filter with the gas directly.
Don’t know if it matters when I have the cyclone, it seems to take about 70-80% of the soot after my books.
But I only have about 3cm between the canvas and the plate.
(I found the problem with the idler, it had loosened some rivets so I got soot into the intake, causing me to lose the idler)
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Hi Jan, i would do something like this, a sheet metal shield that directs the gas downwards, it helps avoid moisture hitting the filter, and protect the filter.
This dont need to be tight, just tack weld, or pop-rivet (pressure tight steel rivets, closed end) it to the housing.
Best would be the shield follows atleast 1/3 of the circumference.
If the gas hits the filter directly it is a risk of sudden temperature peaks burn and make the fabric brittle.
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Im late but maybee it still helps someone. For a good smoke “bomb”, a mix of 60% potassium nitrate (stump remover, fertiliser) and 40% table sugar works great. Grind to a powder and fill in a paper cilinder. Works even better if melted together (thugh a bit dangerous) and even better if you mix in a few % of wax.
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Yep, I’ve always used powderd sugar and wax along with the KNO3
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