Hmm thats a valid point. Hope we get warm and dry 5-10c winter like last year otherwise l have a problem…
Wedges wuld be great but hard to do here. I am not yet sure how to fix them. Need to do some thinking and investigation…
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When I built my cabin, I had tar paper on the outside of the whole cabin the first winter (+ insulation and plasterboard (gypsum) on the inside), and masonite on the roof.
Had to build the cottage and get the downstairs ready in 3 months.
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I’m still wondering why you are sheathing the inside with OSB and not the exterior. Your experience my vary but I built a lot of houses and had no issues with working in them all winter heated with propane heaters and no issues with condensation. When customers wanted a better product we always pushed blue board over standard drywall. Blueboard gets a thin coat of plaster that bonds to it. You can punch you fist through drywall but unless you are Mike Tyson, not blue board.
Many houses have been built with a rafter system like your drawing. Usually fastened to a ridge board but that didn’t really affect the structural quality of the roof. If you don’t want to use a ridgeboard then I would lay a couple rows of 2x4 bracing on top of those collar ties. It will stiffen the roof a lot and hold your spacing for your sheathing.
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Even with one sheet only and no insulation???
Kristijan, I was working in the woods today but couldn’t stop thinking about your trusses.
If you’re worried about strength you could and an extra member (blue) on each rafter. Also, it would replace the wedge and allow for more insulation. (Pink) is plywood sheets, glued and screwed.
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Rindert,
I agree, but Kristijan’s studs extend only 1 meter and I think he is aiming for walking hight in the center.
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I know there are span-tables for sizing floor joists, there is probably something similar for designing trusses. First off, how wide is the building? The second thing to think about is how much dead weight is going to be going up there? Concrete or clay tiles are going to add a lot of weight on top of that roof. That translates to a sizeable thrust at the walls. To maximize usable space under the roof, you could think about building scissor trusses. If you do build it one rafter at a time, that ridge beam is important to keep everything lined up.
I suspect you do not want to hear this, but my advice is dont plan on moving in until the house is mostly finished. It is going to take longer than you think, and bad weather is probably going to slow things down. A 45 degree roof is hard enough to work on when its dry, in the rain it will be downright dangerous. The first priority should be to get that roof on. Then get a closed shell, then insulate, then work on your interior finish, an lastly you can do the exterior finish. If you put the sheathing on the outside and wrap it with tyvek, it will buy you a year or two, and be waterproof. If you put tyvek over the studs, the siding will need to go up right away to keep it from blowing away since it will be so hard to staple it down. If there is no weatherproofing on the outside, your insulation will get wet, and then it ceases to be insulation. You can speed things up by just focusing on getting your bathroom finished first. Then you can live in the other house, but use the new bathroom while contruction progresses.
Once you move in, things will grind to a halt. The house I grew up in did not have window trim for 10 years because that was the last thing that needed to be done, and my dad thought he would just knock that out real quick after the move. 
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Jan,
Yes, maybe I can see what he wants to do, but also I don’t know everything about his situation. So I propose a very basic system that can be changed a little bit or things added to it. Here is an example.
Rindert
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Carl,
Back in 2004 I mentioned span, roof angle and such to the guys at the former house factory in Mockfjärd (you probably pedaled past it). Just to get an idea of what dimensions to use. They punched in my numbers in the computer and the result was close to solid wall trusses of stacked 2×9s 
They told me common practice was calculating with 2.5m snow load in this area. We ended up using almost only half the amount of lumber.
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Kristijan; I said I was going to hold my comments on DOW. Can’t be done. JO’s last paragraph says alot of what I wanted to say. I used trusses on my house and every joint was a butt joint with 3/8 in. plywood glued and nailed on BOTH sides of the joint. The way you have it drawn, you could build those as trusses and set them on the sill plates. Build them on a flat surface on the ground— much more accurate build and with the plywood joints you could slide them up into position on the wall. Cut your “birds mouth” in the rafter so that the width of the sill plate is flat against the rafter. Instead of “toe nailing” the rafters to the sill, I believe they make metal fasteners that can be nailed on and make the roof much stronger. I don’t understand putting OSB on the inside first. Won’t the weather deteriorate the OSB . Put the OSB on the outside and cover it with Tyvex or what ever is available. That will give you more protection in winds and I believe Tyvex acts as a vapor barrier, After I lived in my house for a while I put a steel roof on over the asphalt. The metal roofing is quite expensive, so I used the siding that is sold for “barn” siding. It is the same gauge metal and as far as I could tell, they are both treated the same when it comes to painting. The metal materials that have the shape of “Spanish tile” and other patterns are out of sight price wise. TomC
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Here is a drawing of a shed I might build that allows a full height ceiling inside.
Each rafter is doubled up and bolted together.
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Don, that is very interesting. I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything like it.
Several advantages. Apart from full ceiling height, you could cover the walls with storing shelfs and still have plenty of sunlight. I like it.
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Hey, I’ve got to put in my 2 cents as well, Kristijan. I agree with a lot of good advice here. Sheathing on the outside of the house, for structural integrity and so you can properly fasten waterproofing Tyvek or tarpaper, or at the minimum plastic sheeting, to keep the structure dry. Once your framing / sheathing gets wet, it will start warping. Third reason, if you want wiring or plumbing roughed in to the walls, that would be INside, not outside. They make metal tie-plates (nailers) for your rafters, good to add for roof-wall tie in. The Ice-Age is returning, not kidding, so build for a heavier than normal snow load. I’m staying with my 120 year old farm house. Steep pitch roof, mix of drywall, lath and plaster, timber framed in the oldest part, still standing!! And get that safety harness, you have little ones to feed. I hire the Amish to work on my roof, they know how to do it. Unfortunately, they also fall and get hurt sometimes. 
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The bad part of balloon framing for multi story buildings is that the walls are open from the floor to the roof and to the ceilings. There is nothing to stop a fire from using the walls as a chimney.
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Hey Kristijan, how are you coming along with your new house? I hope all the comments here are not keeping you from updating us on progress.
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Phew, I’m glad you beat me to it, Don.
Makes me look more patient
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Hi guys, thanks for the concern. The construction progresses well. I am currently in the fun part of the build, making the hearth of a house; the wood burning stove/oven/boiler. I will make a detailed report soon… its just that in the evening a cold beer and a warm bed is lately more apealing thain writeing a detailed reply so l guess l am just borrowing JOs and TomCs favorite sport. Procastinating
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Looking forward to that report, Kristijan.
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Sorry, wrong thread…
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how goes the build these days?
I’ve been away for a while as we moved a little bit south and are building a new house.
Cheers, David
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