@KristijanL proposed just such a modification a while ago.
But I believe @k_vanlooken has outlined a systematic approach.
The system you have seems to have some intrinsic design flaws/ issues, but it can obviously be run adequately under certain conditions regarding fuel type, condition, size, or it wouldn’t exist as a commercial design. It seems you are trying to operate it outside of the design parameters with regards to fuel.
As Koen states, you are trying to experiment by varying too many operating parameters at once, before knowing the true operating characteristics of your machine, or having experience with the operator needs and intuition.
The rotating stirrer you have installed might be contributing to bridging. Unless it is in very regular motion it probably impedes down flow of chips.
The fuel size is too small and packing too tightly causing bridging and failures of steady downflow and proper air flow for combustion to properly continue.
Maybe just try to run the system on only charcoal, then extrapolate.
Keep it simple. Go back to basics. Get it running in the simplest way, then work from there.
Eventually the nozzles are probably a good idea, but figure out your machine first, then progress.
Noted, i am steadily trying it out. i am just leaving wood out of the system for the time being and trying only rice husk which is about 3 to 4 percent mosture.
Hi all sorry for long delay. I bought the engine company down to start it they really did a great job with the serviceing of it.its starting just like a petrol engine i mean to say start up is very fast
1.They told me the gas heating value is not stable thats why there is a hissing noise in the background. How can i keep gas heating value stable.
My gassifier and engine is about 40 Meters away. There is no water close to the gasifier but when the gas reaches the engine there is lot of water
it’s a Chinese engine that you have, good,
it’s like computers, you program it badly,
and badly he does his job.
So, you still have too much moisture in your gas, from the beginning, you are told that your fuel has too much moisture,
which limits the temperature rise of the gasifier’s generator,
makes a solar dryer and everything will work perfectly.
do not continue to operate your engine, with water, it will not turn long.
I recall moisture collecting in a pipe cooler of sorts. Been a long time ago. I did have a PDF document of it but lack the time and energy to find it. It produced low tar gas but not low enough for engine grade gas. My development stopped when I ran out of gifted rice husks. No rice in my area so no reason for development work.
I think this is a case of simple condensation. Any syngas derived from wood will have a dew point, there is always moisture in the gas stream.
Given that a pipe run of 40m is mentioned, condensation seems unavoidable.
Why does the pipe run have to be 40m? This seems likely to add significant unnecessary drag to the system. I would guess the gas is cooled to ambient air temp after 40m.
If nothing can be done to shorten this distance, a water collector should be added before the engine. Also, the incoming syngas should be warmed above dew point. This is best accomplished with engine heat, either exhaust gas heat exchanger, or coolant.
In sri lanka air humidity is about 80% i also thought so any idea to remove it. As Garry told i might add a simple water collector with a wood chip filter will it help me
I don’t have enough space to add the engine close to gassifer. But can i add a water collector with wood chip filter. And thanks alot for the water collector idea and do you have any suitable drawings
Details of any collector will depend on the system. Others will have more experience in this regard, I will wait for their suggestions. On the WK system there is a condensation collection tank after the cooling rails. Your system is so much bigger, it will require a design that meets the operating times and conditions.
I’m not sure if wood chips will serve any good purpose in a condensate trap. I think air velocity ( slowing down the stream) is more important to trap moisture. If there is mist still, then some kind of mesh or stainless steel scrub pad material may work to trap moisture by collision.
I feel most important for your engine performance will be to warm the gas above dew point prior to the intake.
the wood chip is a good idea and the cheapest, but that requires regular change,
otherwise, it is possible to put a Carrier-type ice-water plant, which feeds a condenser, the gases circulating inside with the cold, traps the gas water before leaving to the engine and gives a perfect gas.
but of course, a fuel with no moisture less than 10% is essential.
