tone, is there a method to renew a consumed clutch disc, when there are no more replacing parts to found…?
ciao giorgio
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Giorgio, there is a craftsman near here who restores lamellas and brake linings, removes the old linings and glues new ones, but he refuses to disclose the attachment process.
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…and when he dies, the knowledge disappears with him in the grave…it is a pitty…
luckily here in the forum all like to share their knowledge!
at my mower for harvesting the centrifugal clutch was completely consumed, and no pieces more to find…so i restored by myself in italian outback way…left all the pieces of the old linings and cutted a piece of old tires- without metall wire-in a way that the stripe enters relatively strong between clutch-bell and centrifugal mechanism…works well since a lot of years and, if consumed, it is really easy to replace…
disc clutch of course , is another discussion…
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With old drum brakes, you rivet them into place. In the United States up until recently it was cheaper to re-line the brake shoes.
I would look for rivet holes, it would most likely use pop rivets.
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It is do-able to reline most clutch disc’s, find a new or good used disc in same diameter, drill out the small rivets. Do the same with the weared out disc, place old lining up on new and drill the right pattern.
Then the problem is you have to use special countersunk holes and special rivets, and do it carefully, clutch lining is very brittle.
This is just “redneck-engineering” but it works, i’ve done it sometimes and had no troubles, even done it with a car-clutch, which is not recomended due to higher rpm’s.
Rivets needs to be made from brass, cupper, stainless, not aluminum or plain iron, they tend to corrode away pretty quick.
It’s possible to find those drill-bit’s, special ones that makes a cylindrical Countersinking.
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tone,i have a question about your FIAT tractor…the spark plugs are the version with the thick thread (D16) or others?
merry christmas
giorgio
nearby -50 km- someone sells a fiat 25 c petrolio chain tractor…but a bit expensive…
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Giorgio, the “standard” spark plug thread is M14x1.25, well. on the Fiat tractor, the thread is larger, something similar to the BCS mower.
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Here we have a thaw and the sun, Fergie is “happy” when I give him work, but I’m covered in sweat, at these temperatures 
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in the middle of the video there is a old 90 years old fiat tractor…
this would be a ideal victim for wood- or chargas conversion…
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…and where the tractor was built…for friends of old engines, but not for old politicians…
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and here the same as tone`s tractor…only chain version…
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and the model from tone…
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and here something sentimental for the heart…the old man and the tractor (hemingway)
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I think it would be neat to get a Post-WW2 Lamborghini R485 orchard tractor and woodgas it. Or a 2R DT perhaps.
Just for the style of course, but you can’t beat the machines from Turin.
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Interesting track machine with a steering wheel! I never saw that before.
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the old magnet ignitions sometimes become weak…who knows how they get freshed up?
somewhere is to read that someone makes this by profession for oldtimers…
but not explained how …
who knows something about this argument?
ciao giorgio
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Hi Giorgio, done that a little, most “re-magnetesize” them, there are alot on the net about this, i believe there are sone good information on SMOKESTAK-forum (antique engine forum) if you find an old welder (transformer type) you can make a electromagnet to use for this, then you need 2-4 good car batteries in series to send a “jolt” through this.
Im going to post some more about this if you are interested? Im just in the build to try cut out some in the original “horse-shoe” magnets on a low-tension magneto, to put modern neodymium magnetos in “series” with them, to try if it works.
There is also possibility to put in a modern condenser (capacitor) in these, really helps.
Only thing i not try is re-wind them, almost impossible without equipment, high-tension winding is smaller than a human hair, and is 8000 to 15000 turns, just to count them…
But, something i found is VERY important is these magnetos is dry, often i put them on my wood boiler for some weeks, then they work again, but it’s hard to keep them dry.
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I am interesed too Goran.
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Here’s first something about re-magnetizing.
This one i use, it’s made from a choke for a transformer, from a scrapped, enormous charger for a forklift.
Wiring should be as “heavy” as possible, lots of amp’s running through this.
Parts from the cut piece from the core, i use these to re-direct the magnetic flow, for example when re-magnetizing flywheel magnetos.
A little sketch of the setup, i use some thick copper plates as a “switch” it should only be connected as short of time one can do, just hit them together, and immediately rip them apart a couple of times, sunglasses recomended, some serious sparks when those amp’s, and a coil involved
Worth to notice is: some of these magnetizes just when current breaks, some little after, which will change the poles of the magnet, use a cheap compass to check after first jolt, i don’t know how to calculate this, just trial and error.
This setup is for more modern magnetos, with rotating magnet and static windings, these often don’t need re-magnetizing, better magnets in these.
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