the cooker with the security valves…has not worked as desired. the security elements open only a split around of 5 mm, this seems to small …the whole construction is in 1/2 ", seems to narrow and because of the much curves to restricting for the gas…
flaring the gasifier it runs reliable without interruptions for 4 hours- consume coal 12,5liters (about 3 gallons), 1900gramm about.
but when i connected the cooker, i must reduce the blower, otherwise i can not lighten the cooker cups because of gas speed —but than after a while always comes bad gas and the flame goes off.
i think the reason is the reduced air flow, so the heat in the system goes down and good gas cannot more be produced.
it was not depending on interruption of fuel flow, because the gasifier without cooker-only flaring runs shure.
so we used a provisoric cooker, quickly made of some thicker tubing, and this works fine…
a notice about the thermo electric security sensor…i have positioned in distance how on original propane gas stoves, and in this position they dont work, maybee because the flame is not hot enough so close nearby the burner lids, i take it out and keep in the flame, there but works fine…
with cooking proves -fotos up- i used the gas without the burner lids, seems best effectivity and nothing burned punctually in the pan…seems very good heat distribution and quickly heats up, i think in the same time as on propane
I am not home for the rest of the week. When I get home I will post some pictures and designs.
I have several. Some very simple others built better and lasting longer.
Giorgio, l have found that much like with a engine, its important for a woodgas burner to have a lot of hydrogen in your gas to maintain good flame speed. Even thugh the gas is caloric, if the speed of combustion is low, heat transfer from flame to the pot is bad. Flames just lick the bottom and roll away from the side.
Second, l had the same problem. Once in a while bad gas came and away goes the flame. When l get back to this, l think what lm gonna do is add a pilot burner. Just a copper pipe with some cotton rope inside, leading to a small container with ethanol or something, and the tip of this “candle” being lit next to the woodgas burners. Does this make sence?
The -basic- design is a 1:3 ratio. 1 inlet 3 height.
If you are going to cook with it outside. I always like this one. 
I think this one is on wheels.
This is something along the same lines but he is using it indoors to make charcoal.
Note: it is on wheels, and he rolls it out of his shop to cook with I think in a different video.
I haven’t watched these in years though, and I am surprised I actually found them.
kristian, thanks for tipps, the aktual model with the 4 nozzles seems have a shure fuel flow, hours without interuption continuos flame, with 3/4" pipes on the stove…this seems shure for use, in opposit to the try with 1 nozzle, what creates easily bridging…than gas burning interruption.
with the hydrogen could be a good idea, with a dripper on the air inlet, there is very hot , could work. maybee one drop in second.
the next days when the cooker is ready i will make a try how much time is needed to bring a liter of water to boil…
my opinion is the burner lids of the propane stoves, though with updrilled holes like thoose i have modyfied, makes a ostacle for the heat transfer to the pot…
i think the security valves are not the solution for indoor use, because they are to narrow and for self made bigger diameters the magnet and the spring maybee too weak.
but for indoor use maybee a kind of cooking in the chest could work… around the cooker is a airthight -to the room -box, with a hermetic sealed door, when you cook, the door is open, and when you must go away for a while and let it cook, you close the door, and when you return you see if the flame yet burns or has gone of…no gas goes in the room if the flame for some reasons has gone off…the chest needs of course a air feed pipe in the bottom what comes from outside for the combustion air when the door is closed, and on top another pipe where the cooking vapours can go outside…this requires only a gasifier what burns shure without interruption…
you have suggested onc a simil system where the burner is inside of a mini stove, all hermetic closed to the room, this can also work, but i think with direct fireing under the pot is more effective instead heating a metall plate from underneath where the pot stands on…
Excuse the dirth, but this is how our stove looks like
When we cook, we take the rings off. There is plenty of draft so nothing gets out and lm sure l can safely install a woodgas burner in this stove.
with this chimney draft seems optimal., also when gas flame goes off, the poisoness gas goes through the chimney away…
we have only a short chimney on our house stove, very less draft, yesterday we modyfied the cooker pipes with 3/4"
today we have had a lot of work with plum conserves making…
during work i wondered how it would be able to make dry fruit with the heat of our chargas…??? no need for jars, no need for lids, and get excellent sweeties for wintertime…
some years ago we made dry fruit from peach in the bred oven, but it was very delicate to not overheat…
Giorgio, what kind of machine is this?
Thanks for reminding me, on the edge of our property is a semetery and next to it a garbage container for cemetery waste, but people throw all sorts of stuff in. I salvaged 2 microwawes for transformers, perfectly good kids bicycles… yesterday l saw in it a hevy heat exchanger, with a fan. Shuld be great for heating a shop or for a dryer.
The North family have a good solar drier, chimney style. Perhaps @JocundJake culd take a picture for you?
Other thain that, l found air flow is much more important thain heat. You only need to heat air a litle bit to drop its humidity. We dry apples most of all fruit. Its our kids favourite snack.
Plumbs we dry too but not many as we dont fancy them that much, only a kilo or two for flavouring a venison roast gravy or goulash.
My mother has luck with making fruit leather. You blitz your fruit in a pulp, then spread thinly on baking paper and dry to a firm, leather like form. Cut and roll in to small rolls to be eaten as a snack. Works with plumbs too!
the machine is a old normal meat cutter for sausage making…the gear i made by myself , otherwise only with the crank handle your arm fall off because it has not the right speed.
we use for tomatos, figs , all fruit.
this kind of plums is relative small, but really honey sweet, so, a bigger quantity to have is not wrong… other races of plums are more sour, we have planted a lot of different races, for to see what grows well and tastes good also
.the apples here soffers much because of too dry climate, nearly nothing to use now…
in the 90ties they were nice, now not more.
the leather recipe of your mum is interesting…will try
the dryer of north family is interesting for me, jacob will send me also some designs for rocket stoves, when he return at home…so i will ask him also for the dryer…
you are lucky with the garbage container nearby!!
for me, without car, is all mostly out of reach…
Tom, was faster.
Wanted to give this link
It is translated in Italian and he really is an authority. I know him in person. He dedicated his life for developing the batchrocket and is about to get it certified here in the EU. Lots of rules , emission etc. Like the WK gasifier, you know what you get/ are building.
I know a few people that use that over here. Works more then ok, so it must be a real simple solution in your climate. Drawings everywhere, KISS
About 10 years ago I built a large solar dryer for my garden but it never worked well despite being pretty elaborate. It’s too humid here and Kristijan is right about the air flow being more important. I should have put a small fan with a solar panel to pull air through it but never got around to it. I dehydrate a lot of stuff at the house though.
I’ll post a picture sometime next week when I get home. They work great in not so humid climates. It has to dry enough before it molds .
today potato pancake cooked with chargas…what happened?! the pancakes attacked in the pan - in opposite to the last try some days ago with the provisoric simple pipe cookers…
i have observed the difference was that on the provisoric cooker the pan was higher upon the burners, and this makes a pretty difference.
on the cooker on the foto the space between burner and pan was about 12or 15 mm or half inch, and this is too narrow… i tried with more distance - the panholder is regulable in hight by screws -and 27mm - 30mm above the burner, about 1 1/4 inch, and this works fine, the pan heats up how it should be…so, not the narrow space makes more hot, but the wider space brings more heat transfer to the pan…maybe this is what kristijan says he had observed that “the flames just lick the bottom and roll away to the side…”
i think this happens when the pot or pan is too narrow on the burner because in this case the nitrogen make a hostacle between burning gas and bottom of the pot…
observing a flare pipe on the gasifier, seems that the flame is inside hollow, what is the nitrogen, will say the burning part is formed like a pipe…
the same happens under the pot, and when the distance is wider, is more space for nitrogen and flames and the nitrogen is not so costricted to travel under the pots bottom…??
after cooking a short test how much time is needed to bring one liter water to boil…
water temperature was 24 degre celsius, it needs 8 minutes to bring it to boil in this tea bowl…
on the foto the right distance from burner to pot … besides the screws for hight -regulation.
the brass lids are not needed and are a ostacle for the flame…they are only used for rain protection
because here in the outback i have no rockwool for insulation nearby, or i must buy a whole packet, so i tried insulation with ash and also with clay…the clay was not good, absorbs too much heat, after 25 minutes the gas not jet was good…another try with only air in the insulation space, works in the warmer hours of the day, in evening not…
the best was washed and dryed ash, good gas after 6-7 minutes…
the ss-pipe i think is better for good fuel flow as a rusty steel pipe…
further 4 nozzles for a good fuel burn -away from the sides helps to avoid bridging…
this is simil to stephen abbadessas woodchip gasifier design…
a big thank to mike reynolds, who brought me on the trace of this design with his video from argos 2018…
Giorgio, greetings, a few years ago I made a propane forge burner, it was a 1" tube, a venturi constriction at the beginning and a propane nozzle in the middle, and a piece of larger pipe welded on the other side. Gas and air are mixed in the venturi constriction and this mixture travels through the pipe to the expansion, where it burns at a high speed, and behind it creates a vacuum in the pipe and sucks in fresh mixture, well, it is interesting that the highest temperature is at the end of the flame, here the iron heats up to a white color.
Do you have another link , this one is dead and wont load .
Batchrocket.eu - Introductie
Introductie van de Batch Box Rocket, een houtkachel met een uiterst schone verbranding. Ontwerper: Peter van den Berg
Thanks
I think primitive fire clay, you mix wood ash plus char, plus clay and like grass Then bake it. I think Bruce Southerland had an actual recipe and I can’t find the link right now. Part of the trick is the carbon bakes and turns into a gas that leaves pockets of air, which are a great insulator, and it breaks up heat conduction paths.
But since I found this last night, for another thread and it is pretty similar. The washing of the ashes removes the potash from the mix and increases the melting temperature.
There is an explanation in the comments about what is happening to the lime. And to be honest, I am kind of lost. as far as how well it works as a refractory.