JO's -91 Mazda B2600

Ha! Ha! Gasoline ages. Good to refresh at least once every 6 months.
Wood is good for years, depending.
Wood charcoal good for centuries.


Whenever I add two or three gallons, I add stabilizer to keep it usable.


Collected youngest daughter and her boyfriend at the train station Friday and dropped them off today. They’ve been riding about 150 miles on wood with me during the weekend. No complaints :smile:


Thanks for the picture and video JO .

You make DOW look very easy :grinning:


Father-in-law left us earlier this week, 76 years old. He’s been suffering from cancer for the last year and a half. Lots if things to deal with around that lately.
But life goes on and the truck has to be maintained and fed. 8,000 miles inspection of the firetube below and adding to the fuel supply for the upcoming winter.


Sorry to hear about your father in law JO.


Hello JO

Very sorry to hear of your loss . Please give my condolences to your wife .


Sorry to hear, comfort to your wife, and family.


Sorry about that, loosing parents can leave you adrift

What a beautiful life of poles


Good afternoon Jo i am sorry for your famelys loss, its really a shame how many people leave this world early these day, so much cancer deaths. Just lost my dad last sep.too menonoma skin cancer , then came elzimmers , all epidemic perportions theses days. Happy wood driveing days too you and your famely. I need too get some chickens for healthy eggs and soup.


Sorry for your loss JO. Memories never die though. Good memories help you get through the tough times. All the best to to you and family.


Sorry for your wife and your loss JO. Life seems so very short when we lose our loved ones. Many prayers for your whole family in this time.
Yes to what all the others have said.


Thanks guys. Wife says thank you for your concern.


All this time I’ve had problems running 100% gasoline. Lean condition and unable to crank up cold without a adding woodgas, and then suddenly, like flipping a switch, rich condition when the motor is warmed up. I’ve checked every sensor there is, with no luck.

Today I finally got to it. I swapped computer box with my junk Mazda. SUCCESS :smile: The truck runs as it should again.

Lets just hope I don’t get lazy and start running gasoline again, now that it’s possible :smile:


Yup JO, you have the other 75% down when running your gasifier, but the electronics was working against you all this time. Thanks for point this out , this could be problems with other gasifier operators and they don’t understand why they can’t get there gasifier vehicle to run right, when starting up, idling, when the engine is in the startup mode, or warming up, and the computer is not working right. This could also be a problem when the engine is warmed up.


Yes. I began to fight with my 1994 Ford F-150 back in ~2003. In hot low humidity summer conditions it would go super lean road running and ping&surge. No codes set. Of course the standards done. Replaced the fuel filter. Ran without the air filter restriction for diagnostic. Running loaded fuel pressure checked. (Bloody dangerous having a tee’ed-in line and gauge of 60 psi gasoline going down the road) No problems found. No change.
Accidentally leaving the headlights on after going in one August morning very early I discovered a battery-loss/disconnect would put it back to normal for a few weeks.
So . . . . thereafter for years my “fix” was to battery disconnect when in working, or in-store shopping. Did this for years.
Then . . . in cold winter conditions sometime it would developed a kick in and out of drive gear in it’s electronically shifted auto transmission. This model/year also controlled by the same single “Powertrain” controller. Limp it home in manual locked in 2nd forward and reverse. Sit over night with the battery disconnected. Then be fine again for weeks.

Too old. No new replacement controllers available anymore. And my MasterAuto-Tech experiences with Rebuilt/Reconditioned factory controllers had shown that 50% of the time you then fixed your own problem and inherited someone else’s different problem!
Finally in 2015 it refused to run anymore with the airflow sensor in circuit. Swapped out known-good sensor and sensor to controller bypass wires proved this.
Would start and run with only a bit’o loads-added hesitation with the A.F. disconnected in a speed-density back up mode.
Running that way since. Lost ~10% of gasoline fuel economy.
But! No longer the hot summer, and cold winter problems.

For two years I too have now a junk-yard, I PULLED OFF, different PCM.
Have to remove the plastic L.H. front inner fender to properly swap this out on this model of chassis.
Maybe this summer if I catch up with must-do’s.

J.O. these old one’s it was dealer shops s.o.p. to swap out the controller with a different one to prove out suspected problems. We had a cabinet full of these with their one-known marked problem for diagnostic swapping.
Prove-it. Then order-in a proper spec Reman. replacement. 50% of the time curse the then “new” problem. Replace again. And . . sometimes again.
It was virtually impossible for the sub-contacting Reconditioning company to test/load long enough: thru a full range of potential operating temperatures, and loads, to insure full functionality. The Guarantees was until satisfaction try-again replacement. Not really. By the third supplied they then assumed your system was killing their controllers. This was sometimes true.

One must learn to smile and be happy with works-good-enough often in life. A full life is from new-young don’t know shit; willing to learn. To Know; too much shit. Just can’t apply it all anymore. Back wont bend. Fingers don’t flex. I walked across the room, for What?

Fellows. Be aware that somewhere in the early 2000’s the manufacturers changed over to different networked communications systems and protocols. They had their own better-futures justifications.
THEN all of the on-board controlled were internally serial numbered declaring, and system registered. Power-up and each controller had to ID itself by serial number to be system recognized as pre-register to that one vehicle as valid to participate.
NO MORE RANDOM swap-in controller games then possible! Put you into THEFT detected lock out!
Do this to yourself; and a works most-of-the-time get-out of Theft lock out technique is with the offending controller removed: and using a pre-regisitered chipped key/RKE cycle in by the vehicle door. Cycle the ignition switch on-off, on-off; then ON, and left ON for ONE FULL HOUR. Have a good steady/smooth battery charger hooked up so the battery voltage does NOT fall too low in that hour.
Or . . . have to towed into a Dealer and pay, pay, pay.

See . . .
New is most certainly NOT better. Just more expensive. More dumb’ing down insulting of you.

Why I say; where you can . . .
When you can; support using “off-road” minimum-basic substitute controller FI systems . . .
Be a Systems bootlegger.
A Freedom, spit-in-your-cup, cheeky, DOer-of-Life
Anytime, when THEY say You-Must! You Must pay Me to proceed.
Naw. Maybe. Only if you catch me.
DOing my work-around.


Hi Steve, sorry you lost me on this statement. Could you explain this a little more?


Hi BobMac,
Most actuall key heads have an electronic chip in them. This can either be vehicle queried/ and respond. Or just a broadcasting chip. As in a Remote Keyless Entry fob.
The chip signature has to have been with an appropriate vehicle set-up interface scanner programed in as an authorized valid user.

So cycling the door locks says to the vehicle theft system that you a m-a-y b-e an authorized user.
The ignition switch cycling set-up and then left on for one full hour confirms you are for sure an authorized user. This prevent scofflaws with brute-hack system generators for gaining system entry. These must frequency hop broadcast fast to cover a full broad band of spectrum in a reasonable time.
The later chips and vehicle theft system reset randomly a reset and accepted frequency signal with each and every usage.

Hope this explains
Steve unruh


It was only only a 10-15 minute lockout on my '04 ford. I had to use special software to clear the keys and reset it. I thought it took a two keys or a key and the fob. to get it out of theft mode.


The seal for the pipes in through the wall to the hay filter, where did you find them?
Regards Jan.

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