JO's -91 Mazda B2600

Most of my driving is done within a 12-15 mile radius. However yesterday wife and I made a 100 mile roundtrip. One full hopper each way.

I’ve mentioned many times both my gasifiers tend to consume char faster than they can replaced it on longer open road trips. This time I decided to mix some char into the fuel. I didn’t put much in, maybe half a gallon per hopper, but it really made a difference. We drove mile after mile in 55-60 mpg speeds. The vacuum ratio stayed at a steady 3:1 and the wg-temp outof the cyclone never climbed above 400 F.

I’ve been struggling lately with a leaky hopper lid and even some kind of restriction in the preheat areas (high hopper vacuum). Yesterday everything worked as it’s supposed to. Lemon eating day :grin::+1:

11 Likes

Hi, J-O!
19.9.2018

I think you have figured out the reason a long time ago, but prefere an excellent performance on a modest level…

3 Likes

Well, I guess the size of the restriction is the most obvious reason. But you’re right, I prefer a safe performance at low damand. Smaller fuel for high damand trips is another option. Adding some char seemed the easiest solution at the moment.

5 Likes

Hi, J-O!
20.9. 2018

… And upper nozzle-tip circle?

2 Likes

Upper nozzles already have minimum protruding, maybe a 1/4", or are you suggesting a narrower oxidation zone (longer nozzles) would speed up the charing capability?
I’m already satisfied with performance 90% of the time but the information may be useful for future builds.

3 Likes

Hi. J-O!
20.9.2018

Nozzle-tip-circle = common circle for the tips.

Unevitably enlarging asks for a greater chamber diameter…

Narrowing the tip-circle diameter would increase the imaginary

“downdraft” over ~0,61m/s, which has seldom given good
results. (In 2-throat gasifiers)

Bigger fuel bits “mature” slower, so a slower imaginary downdraft is required… toward 0,5m/s is recommended minimum.

In a built measure, only a conical roof can hasten the process… TomC mess. 635.

Blowing 15 degrees upward from the horizontal plane would also increase preparation time…

Same nozzles, but the “tip-bore” 15* aimed upward, slightly off hearth centerline to generate a bit of rotation.

7 Likes

Anyone good at electronics?
I ordered a pwm the other day. Unfortunately I discovered it’s supposed to do the pulsing on the negative side of the motor. My fuelpump works and seems grounded even if I losen the negative connection. Is there any way this pwm could be used?


2 Likes

Hi, J-O!
20.9.2018

The left part of the couplingshema is missing, and some figures are well hidden in unsmoothed wrinkles; no final reading yet!

Does your fuelpump connect to car-metal other ways than trough the MINUS-lead? Hinted that to be the case!
Pump body metallic?

Meaning; are the pump electrics FLOATING, or is there a contact between the (metal)body of the pump and the electrics in the pump proper?

Fuel-lines metal/plastic/rubber?

What shall be connected to “J”, a shorting plug or some external switch, what?

2 Likes

That’s my problem. The pump motor seems to be connected to ground (car-metal) via its housing (the pump is inside the fueltank) If I disconnect the negative wire from the pump it runs just fine anyway. That’s why I guess this pwm is useless to me here.

I was not allowed to upload the pdf directly but If you click the “manual” in the link below you will find the same circuit diagram and can zoom into any component.

2 Likes

They will not work on our common ground (-) The motor has to be isolated, hard to do on a motor vehicle.
This design works
https://www.ebay.com/itm/240W-DC-10V-40V-6A-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-Switch-Pulse-Width-Modulation/170961606638

Notice the TWO wire wound coils, they make a THREE coil design that will handle more current. I couldn’t find one on Ebay today. (Hundreds to look thru) The main thing to look for is it can only having 3 terminals, not 4. Three means a common ground, a must have on a vehicle.

5 Likes

EDIT: : Major fault is they will not turn completely off. I use a simple on-off to achieve 0 volts.

4 Likes

Here it is
https://www.ebay.com/itm/400W-DC-10V-40V-10A-PWM-Motor-Speed-Control-Switch-Pulse-Width-Modulation-Gift/400867495063?epid=12017059398&hash=item5d55908c97:g:TYsAAOSwjDZYdiKD

5 Likes

Thank you, Carl. That’s what I need.
Still DOWing? We haven’t seen any reports for a while.

6 Likes

This is the one I used on both my trucks.

2 Likes

Hi all,
Is there a wiring diagram out there for the way you guys are connecting this PWM? I have a 1991 Ranger 4 cylinder.
Rindert

1 Like

Under the right kick panel is the inertia switch, tap in after the switch( pink wire, if I remember correct) to the input on the pwm, out put back to the wire you cut. ground the center lug on pwm anywhere.

3 Likes

What Al said. 12 vdc in, adjustable dc out, ground is ground. Just remember they don’t go to zero volts, hence an on-off switch.

2 Likes

Not much DOW, the gasifier needs repairs, and I don’t have any spare time this summer. Repairing board and batten siding, getting ready to paint. Big house, big job.

7 Likes

Went for a 240 mile roundtrip yesterday. Some free of charge spare part junk followed me home. Burned 3 hoppers there and almost 4 home + a gallon or two for hybriding. This was hard work for the Mazda. I mixed in some char to richen the diet.



13 Likes

Is that a 2wd Mazda? Looks like a B2200?

Great find! I love it when Mazdas follow me home.

And it sounds like a great performance test for the wood gas system - how was performance towing? The truck should weigh 1,550 kg, and the trailer another 500?

What are your plans for this truck? It looks like you need at least one more for a replacement cab.

3 Likes