Most of my driving is done within a 12-15 mile radius. However yesterday wife and I made a 100 mile roundtrip. One full hopper each way.
I’ve mentioned many times both my gasifiers tend to consume char faster than they can replaced it on longer open road trips. This time I decided to mix some char into the fuel. I didn’t put much in, maybe half a gallon per hopper, but it really made a difference. We drove mile after mile in 55-60 mpg speeds. The vacuum ratio stayed at a steady 3:1 and the wg-temp outof the cyclone never climbed above 400 F.
I’ve been struggling lately with a leaky hopper lid and even some kind of restriction in the preheat areas (high hopper vacuum). Yesterday everything worked as it’s supposed to. Lemon eating day
Well, I guess the size of the restriction is the most obvious reason. But you’re right, I prefer a safe performance at low damand. Smaller fuel for high damand trips is another option. Adding some char seemed the easiest solution at the moment.
Upper nozzles already have minimum protruding, maybe a 1/4", or are you suggesting a narrower oxidation zone (longer nozzles) would speed up the charing capability?
I’m already satisfied with performance 90% of the time but the information may be useful for future builds.
Anyone good at electronics?
I ordered a pwm the other day. Unfortunately I discovered it’s supposed to do the pulsing on the negative side of the motor. My fuelpump works and seems grounded even if I losen the negative connection. Is there any way this pwm could be used?
That’s my problem. The pump motor seems to be connected to ground (car-metal) via its housing (the pump is inside the fueltank) If I disconnect the negative wire from the pump it runs just fine anyway. That’s why I guess this pwm is useless to me here.
I was not allowed to upload the pdf directly but If you click the “manual” in the link below you will find the same circuit diagram and can zoom into any component.
Notice the TWO wire wound coils, they make a THREE coil design that will handle more current. I couldn’t find one on Ebay today. (Hundreds to look thru) The main thing to look for is it can only having 3 terminals, not 4. Three means a common ground, a must have on a vehicle.
Under the right kick panel is the inertia switch, tap in after the switch( pink wire, if I remember correct) to the input on the pwm, out put back to the wire you cut. ground the center lug on pwm anywhere.
Not much DOW, the gasifier needs repairs, and I don’t have any spare time this summer. Repairing board and batten siding, getting ready to paint. Big house, big job.
Went for a 240 mile roundtrip yesterday. Some free of charge spare part junk followed me home. Burned 3 hoppers there and almost 4 home + a gallon or two for hybriding. This was hard work for the Mazda. I mixed in some char to richen the diet.
And it sounds like a great performance test for the wood gas system - how was performance towing? The truck should weigh 1,550 kg, and the trailer another 500?
What are your plans for this truck? It looks like you need at least one more for a replacement cab.
