Kristijan's woodgas sawmill

Finaly, the day has come!

This is the first plank l ever sawed! Its a thin cottonwood log but a proof of concept nevertheless. The mill nor the tracks are not yet 100% adjusted and there are still some things to be modifyed/added but it seems it will work fine.

Not gonna lie, l am not esyaly scared but this thing is scary. I definitly need protection over the wheels and pto.

The wind was out of this world today. Look at the leaves that fly like bullets. But that culdnt stop some testing!

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Hello Kristijan .

Congratulations on the saw . Good job. :grinning:

On my mill I have a rule that me or anyone else are in front of the blade while it is in operation . I am always on the back side of the blade .

If the blade happens to jump off the tires it could be bad .

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Thank you Wayne.

That makes lots of sence. I will try to follow that advice, or mount a guard just in case.

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What kind of a life expectancy can l expect from blades? Its a woodmizer blade. How long between sharpenings?

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Hello Kristijan

The amount of wood you saw before sharpening will depend on some factor but mostly how clean the logs are .

If I am sawing clean pine logs I would expect to saw about a thousand board feet of wood before the first very light sharpening. I usually sharpen 3-4 times and then discard.

A sharp blade is very important . My rule of thumbs if I can change the blade out without bleeding it is too dull :grinning:

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Makes sence.

Do you sharpen them your self?

Ha, l remember you mentioning that :smile: the blade l have is new but personaly it doesent seem sharp at all. But ĂŹt does seem to cut ok. I will see what time brings

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Wow Kristijan, that was quick!
I second what Wayne says about being behind the blade, even with guards on. Even the sides are dangerous.
How good does it feel to be able to make your own boards? You are an impressive young man.

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Don’t know much about sawmilling. I think you will want to add a water drip to cool and lube the blade. “way-out west blow-in blog” Tim has a similiar set-up. He arranged the grooves in the tires to let the toothed (set) part of the blade to run in a groove of the tire tread to make the blade last longer.

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Hello Kristijan.

Don’t want to highjack your thread but I can explain better with a video than I can writing words.

I don’t us my blade setter anymore but if you want to make one maybe you could get some ideas here .

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Bill, it feels great. Opens so much opertunitys to live off your land.

Mike, yes, the water drip is one thing still missing.

Thank you Wayne, this was helpfull. I tryed to remember as much as l culd from our visit at your place but the amount of information was too much for this simple brain of mine.

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How is this possible? I turned my back on DOW for a few hours and all this happened.

Congratulations Kristijan, and thank you for letting us watch your first board being cut. Now you will never be low on building material again (or projects).
Time to bring the big logs. I can almost hear the echo in your valley: -TIMBER !

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It’s in your blood now. NO ESCAPING FROM THIS POINT ON ! ! ! :star_struck:

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Water drip is only needed to clean off sap buildup on blades. Most hardwoods should be no problem, spruce and pine are the troublesome species.

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I use a squat bottle with some diesel fuel for that but I suspect some of that runoff from charcoal would work just as well.

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Kristijan,
All of this sawmill talk reminds me of one of my early projects. I submit this for entertainment purposes only. I wouldn’t recommend anyone do it my way. I was perhaps 15 or 16 at the time in 1969 or 70. The Jeep station wagon (sometimes called the first SUV) was my first car, which I used to drive on paths through the woods before I got my driver’s license:

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We used to run a lot of stuff that way. I’ve thought of doing a chunker with the two rear wheels on rollers. Does anyone run a chunker that way?
Rindert

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No I don’t but I have been considering the same thing.

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Please get an old tractor with a belt pulley to run belt driven equipment. The risk with something powered off the rear tires is if anything goes wrong the vehicle will take off forward. I have actually seen someone total a nice truck that way they had it up on jack stands and the stands fell over with vibration the truck ran straight into a big old pine tree.
If you ever look into dino testing at the rear wheels they usually chain down the vehicle just incase the dino fails the car won’t drive off the dino into something at full throttle.

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I Agree with Dan totally, It would also be relatively easy to build up a small stationary engine with a flat-belt drive “pulley” and even with transmission/clutch. Could put it on sled rails and drag it around. :sunglasses:

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The old hit miss motors where setup like that. It always amazed me how the old timmer where so clever as to design a motor that would freewheel and fire about once a minute but keep going. I could watch one of those for hours at a show…

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