I actually never knew ACME was a real world company. I always assumed it was a spoof on AMC American Motor Corporation.
Here are some classics though the AMCE logo first shows about 6 minutes in.
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Thanks Kristijan, I’ll look it up on Monday. That’s a really old engine, we might not have anything on it.
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Looking like lots of well earned progress. im sure you will get other improvments as time permits, cash on the barrel head its takeing you too a nice saw mill tool.
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Hi Kristijan. I have a lot of experience on WoodMizer bandmills . if you run wide open all the time your band life may be shortened significantly due to microcracks from the blade flexing around the wheels. the blade will run cooler and stay sharper longer if you water drip but I don’t like it and just add diesel/chain oil mix when I cut pitchy wood. Bandsaws dislike lots of wide cuts so I cant out as soon as possible and cut in a clean face as soon as possible.
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Hey Kristijan,
Sorry this took so long to find out.
I talked to Joel, he’s the ACME expert here. He says that’s a REALLY old engine, early 1970’s most likely. He has heard of them but never seen one. We have no access to any information about them, but he’s making an educated guess it would be in the 280-290 CC range.
We have an engine that would replace it, a Kohler 9.5 HP with a Euro-style tapered crankshaft. Runs about $600 plus shipping - which would be a lot going to Slovenia.
Sorry if that’s not much help. Good luck woodgassing it!
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Thanks Chris, yes its a old low compresion flathead. It was intended to run on kerosene. This fact came to mind the other day, so probably not much power on woodgas.
But doesent matter, plan B is in tracks! I will go Waynes way. I am picking a car engine with transmision for free today. I will saw the guy some lumber in exchange.
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I like this kind of buisness. 
But actually it is not free.
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Engine is home. The donor car was a Proton, and google says the engine is a Magma megavalve 12v made by Mitsubishi. Looks good but it has mpfi and electronic spark distribution. I was unable to sorce the “brain” for this engie so some “Wayne Keith” style engeneering will take part.
Best l culd fiind out is the dist has a cam position sensor and a ignition coil built in one pack but is turnable.
My thinking is l could make a simple transistor circuit that would pick up the signal from cam position sensor and send current in the ignition coil. Its probably gonna be a spent spark system but that doesent matter. And one fixed timing wich doesent matter on a fixed rpm engine…
Any ides, will this work???
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Yes. Can be made to work.
Use flywheel steel pins for each cylinder. Magnetically triggering the simplest coil amplifier brain available to you.
I put up conversion link on another topic using USA 1970/80 auto amplifiers.
Search for this.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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So you suggest not to use the original cam sensor at all and just make my own? Or had you had in mind l actualy make a kind of magneto ignition?
Any idea wich topic it was?
Edit. I see what you mean now.
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Article was on the;
www.gardentractorpullingtips.com/ignition.htm
Scroll down to magnetic and Hall sensors using GM/Chrysler/Ford ignition amplfiers.
Same could be done with Euro amplifiers.
All of the old had internal 10 degree timing features.
ADVANCED multicyclinder distributorless types you sensor/pin set ~45 or 60 degrees before your spark and electronically calculates a spark initiation lag from that.
S.U.
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Kristjan, mislim da brez motornega računalnika ne bo šlo…
Christian, I don’t think it will be possible without a motor computer …!
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Hello. I am back.
Since you only want to sawmill run you will only need 2-3 spark timing sets.
Cranking to start.
Started idle running.
Power RPM.
The old 1st generation ignition amplifiers can give you a switched two of these.
From a single magnetic or Hall sensor you get two ~10 degrees apart with a amplfier single wire change.
Using a coil per cylinder would need an amplifier and sensor per cylinder.
Two output coil-pac types? Then only two amplifiers with sensors.
Your third timing set could be from a separate switched-over-to positioned sensor. Or . . .running movable sensor.
Really search up this article and you see a Hall effect triggers system would be best.
More precise. Playing with cutout notches then.
Or four small four stroke unicoils pacs; with one to each cylinder; triggered by it’s own sensor.
The large engined Honda, Kohler, B&S single cylinder unicoils have three timing advances built within them.
They count the sensor pulses to calculate RPM and step jump the timing advances.
All of these system being battery powered.
S.U.
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I only use water on pecan and hickory. otherwise it doesn’t seem to make much difference
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fire it up on wood and let it run. No need to start and stop. Just make sure you stay away from the blade
or build in a quick flare tube blower to kick on when you want to load logs or off-bear lumber. Wood is so much easier…
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Perhaps find an ignition module like JO’s. His Mazda ran for a long time on only woodgas with a dead brain.
Rindert
Haha! I do agree. I just don’t mention it, with all the charcoal folks listening 
You’re probably faster than I am. It sometimes takes me 10-15 min to clear out slabs, raise the mill and wrestle a new log into place. This is why I like my electric mill. If I have a helper I can talk to him, or I listen to the birds singing until I press the ON-button again. I doubt the mill is able to add a full dollar a day to the electric bill.
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It was a just a lucky strike that only the fuel delivering part of the brain was dead. The ignition part of the stock computer was still ok.
@KristijanL, did the motor come with the wire harness?
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I Never get tired of looking at sawmills. However, I have gotten tired by working in the mill !
Thanks !
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