There is something elegant and simple about a mill. They are not very complex machines but to actually take a tree and turn it into lumber never seems to loose the magic factor to me.
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Guys l have a problem, plese hepl with advice as quick as you can. I am in a hurry and need a fast solution.
The sawmill has a weak spot.
Right here
Where the axis goes trugh the flange on the wheal, it broke. Yesterday l fixed that now the flange its self fell off at the weald, probably my fault too since l had to bang the flange to get the axis back in, probably damaged the weald.
The axis is 25mm 1" mild steel. The wheel and flange are now damaged beond repair and l allredy have a new wheel and tire but has anyone got a idea of how to rearange things to make it stronger?
This is the power axis. The pulley ataches on the other side of the bearings.
I realy need a simple foulproof solution FAST because l need timber urgently!
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Welding on that wheel is a problem. Probably some alloy. Take a chainwheel with taperlock and drill holes. Or small chainwheel with adapterplate , you can fix plate yourself. And while you are busy, change the axe to 35 mm or more. I have seen you drive. Probably you use your saw the same way. 50 mm is better
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Sprocket. Sorry for my language
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The easiest solution would be to use a standard wheel hub, but I realise the problem still remains how to attach it to the axle.
My DIY solution on my two-wheel tractor was using propane tank domes. The valves are 3/4" and where they are attached to the tank the steel is very sturdy. I guess almost an inch thick. You get enough 3/4" threads on a 25mm axle to be able screw the dome on true and weld it to the axle.
My 2c.
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Sorry Kristijan I donāt understand exactly where it broke.
If it is the pillow block bearing (green bearing housing) they are usually some cast steel alloy hard to weld not impossible. I usually use the stick welder with some sort of nickel or stainless steel rod. I just keep cooling it so as to not burn the seals to bad and obviously re-grease it. Make sure to grind all the paint off before hand especially if using stainless rod. I have made it hold using a mig with mild stainless wire but it is harder.
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Jakob, the actual axle broke
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Just read Joās post. So is it where the axle connects to the rim. Do you have any extra length on the other end of the axle? If you do run it through the hub about 2 inches and but some flat bar bracing that goes all the way out the rim. If not any way to get in Triangulation bracing in between the axle and the rim. In the picture it looks like it there would be room for 3 or four little flat bar triangles to connect the axle to to the rim.
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Go a little bigger on the axle.
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If you can get a solid rear axle shaft to fit your rim, they are forged in one piece. That should hold. Or a jacob said gussets are always good.
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Jakob, this is what l had now. Still the mild steel axle culd not hold the torsion forces of this now powerfull diesel.
Tone offered me a entire wheel/suspension/bearing/axle system from a old Subaru he has. The wheel is a inch bigger thain my current one so it will require some modifications to have the blade leveled.
Problem with going to bigger axle and the arangement l have now is it will get costy. Axle is cheap but then l need new bearings, pulley, wheel flangeā¦ it wuld be simplest thugh but lm kinda ob a budgetā¦
Thank you guys. I will keep you posted
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Iāll ask my uncle (a machinist) and see what he thinks about it.
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Did the axle snap off from blade tension or twist off due to engine torque?
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I can not think of a quick fix but the above from a small front wheel drive vehicle would be something I would think about .
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You are on the right track using a vehicle axle, I used axles out of a small rear wheel drive car, held up well.
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I donāt know how much you can tell from the photo but my mill looks to have a 1.5 inch drive shaft. It is powered by a 24hp gas motor.
I was just thinking as I read this what is your shaft speed?
Tractors use a 540 rpm pto up to 50 hp then a 1000 rpm pto to limit the torque on the driveline. I learned this the hard way when I switched my 100 hp mower to 540 pto to run it in a 70ish hp tractor. Broke the same joint twice before I figured out the issue and reduced the slip clutch on the mower so it would slip as appose to snap.
If you canāt get a bigger shaft maybe you can add a slip clutch or allow the drive to slip somewhere less belt tension maybe?
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It is always a good morning when you find a new calf. It is a girl. First dunes female Galloway in my herd.
Oops I ment to post this in life goes on.
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KristijanL,
I view your picture and can see your problem.
Your band blade pull force is offcentered from your mounting plate.
Look at true trailer wheels and axles. And rear wheel drive axles. The center of the tire is between the inner and outer bearings. Front wheel drive are grossly off centered to make space for the turning axle joint and the brake assembly. FWD then the wheel metals, hubs must be stout, stout.
No easy solution.
Double up on your outer pillow block bearing to stop the shaft defextion flexing. Extend the straight shaft to put your mounting flange centered to the wheel center line. Use a spacer ring to get the wheel mounted up. Reverse the wheel mounting from how you are currently doing it.
As was said by JoepK ., if you use a straight shaft then use a straight shaft taper lock flange made from a sprocket or large pulley.
Sorry. No easy way to do this.
Steve Unruh
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Is there any way to put another bearing on the other side of the tire and run the shaft all the way through. I know it would require buying one bearing and it would have to come apart to put in blades but it would probably hold. the only other thing than a bearing to do it would be a longer shaft and some square tubing. Then that might be me over building again.
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hi i just checked the shaft on my semi professional mill. its 40mm. but only 70mm from the mounting point to the midle of the blade. i hipe that helps.
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