I’ve moved on to the hopper and put it on a work table. Now with a 4’ step ladder I can wrestle it around.
I removed 2 of the inspection/cleanout covers.
The grate can be maneuvered for hopper to burner shell nut removal and cleaning.
Hopper to burner shell gasket. This is fiberglass stove gasket impregnated with 600*F red silicone. Worked well, came off easily with a thin putty knife and no evidence of leak trails across the gasket faces. I will clean it up with lacquer thinner, skim coat it to smooth it over, let it set and reuse it. No leak trails on the hopper connection.
Burner insert to burner shell gasket. This is 1/2" fiberglass stove gasket impregnated with Flamebuster suggested by Tom Collins. This held up well with no evidence of leaks. This is hard as Tom said, but it didn’t leak an iota. It cracked when I separated the parts and broke up when I removed it. This came off quite easily, didn’t seem “glued” to the surfaces.
Also notice the new heatsink lip on the inner edge of that face. I’m real happy with these results.
The new heavy screen basket type grate under the hourglass hearth holds a very large amount of glowing char in the reduction zone. With the hourglass hearth gasketed and bolted to the firetube, the gas has only one way to exit, through the restriction.
The basket grate.
Note the char build up under the grate. This is probably 12 hrs or so of burn. Another part of the 75%, learn when to do a clean out before the buildup interferes with the free flow of gas through the char bed on the grate. Interesting, I’ll have to watch my burn videos again and see if some swirl burner anomalies started. Maybe color change, size of swirl burner flame, increasing?, decreasing? I’ll let you know if I find anything. This pan is holding 6 gallons! This had to have some adverse affect gas/flame color/size,etc. I’ll do some single fire cleanouts. Start clean, weigh it in, weigh it out. It’ll probably surprise me.