One other way to warm up the engine without glow plugs is to keep the coolant warm with a block heater.
Many diesel and even gasoline engines in trucks have that option and are used in the United States and Canada. It is a hot water heater, usually powered by 120v plugged into the garage power for a quick start in the winter. This also helps prevent the oil from being too thick in the cold.
Before block heaters, many had to start a coal fire under the pan of the engine and transmission to warm up the engine oil. The heat would rise of course and also warm the cylinders. My great grandpa had to do this every day up in the mountains in the winter with coals from his fireplace put in a tin pan for his Model A Ford truck.
Perhaps one could reverse engineer the glow plugs replaced with Hot Bulbs? Heated with a gas torch. Just preheating the intake air could be enough.
If I understand correctly, this tractor model has a dual-fuel engine, it can work as a diesel engine or as a gasoline engine with spark plug ignition, this method is also for starting the engine itself, since manually starting a cold diesel engine is impossible.
For several years I had a TD-14 International crawler.
While in the gasoline mode it was very weak and would only run just above an idle. Not strong enough to move the machine . Seemed to be a very low compression ratio.
After it warmed up a little while you could flip the lever for compression and diesel .
I don’t really know a great deal on diesel motors if the truth be known ,but I do remember having 1 pain in the neck forklift that would never fire up in the mornings without a gas flame gun pointing straight into the inlet or a squirt of either what ever was handy .
Yes, it popped up a few times on the forum. Still figuring out how it works and how to determine chipsize. Feed along the axis or on a almost 90 degree angle. The Laimet feed is almost dtraight on the axis. I think you need more power then but chips are smaller.
The first most important thing if diy is an equal distance between the srewblades, I think. If not done correct a lot of power is lost here?
Anyway, screwchipper is on hold for me. Bought a disc chipper this week for a price I couldnt lett it rot away.
Thanks for bringing this one up again GorenK.
I did not watch it back in August when SeanO. had posted it up on comment #33. Too busy then. One whole hour watching was too long of a commitment then.
But today I did watch it.
My Grandfather John/Jack Unruh was a master welder-fabricator as his mid-life carree into retirement. I was too young to ever see him work. This video I got to go-way-back and “see” him work. A true Master in steels.
Very good video as it first shows the machine working. Then ends showing the machine working. This system able to self feed right down to the wide spread twiggy ends. No pre-stripping prepping needed.
It would seem that how a person processes to chunked-bits will be very dependent on the actual form of the input wood form stocks. And then the intend purpose for those chunked-bits.
Not the wonder of a Master welder-fabricators creation.
I tried some examples and came to very handy simplification. If you choose radius of helix circle equal to diameter of shaft, than pitch angle of the helix will be roughly 32,5° and helix height will be double of shaft diameter. Which seems very good angle to cut through the material at the edge. And good cut size. If you choose 1" shaft size, your chunks will be 2" long.
IIRC the ideal feed angle is roughly 30 degrees from the shaft. They use less energy then a disc chipper, but tend to be slower, and more expensive because of fabrication.
The difference between the laimet and this, is that the laimet varies the feed angle by varying the size of the auger flights so you can feed it parallel to the shaft. But they are the same idea. I don’t think laimet could get a patent for the auger without varying the auger flight sizes.
Well i got my blanks (flights) cut out a while back. Havent done anything else with them so far … im thinking i should chuck them up in the lath and put a bevel/cutting edge on them before attempting to press them open into an actual flight. I went way bigger than I needed too but still thinking just maybe i can push wider stuff threw it.
Im going to use a 1.5" shaft. My plates are 3/8" thick and i cut them out at 13" diameter…yeah, i know. They are quite large! But that was the size of the square plates i got my hands on and i can always cut them down.
With the thought being that im feeding a WK gassifier…
How far do you think i should seperat the flights?
Ive got my own idea’s about it, but thought i should run it by everyone else before i start.
The heat from the welding may warp the shaft a little, so maybe it would be better to recut the flights on the lathe after they are welded. Also probably better to recut the surfaces where the inner bearing races contact the shaft after the flights are welded to the shaft.