Small or home made sawmills

That looks like some nice size gasifier slab wood-nice sharped bansaw blade vidio,and nice side job-at leiste its nice and cool outside for working in.DO you like the winter weather in alibama,better than hot summer ? I been to florida about a week back about 1984- it was hotter than heck to me, i thinkit was only aprill,and it felt like july + 2. It was probbly a hot spring that year.

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Good morning Kevin and thanks for the comments.

I end up complaing much more of the cold than the heat . April and October would be my faveite time of year .

46 F here and raining now and I am about to fire the wood burner but no need to worry about me freezing to death , the truck has a good heater and I have tons of wood :smiley:

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GOOD AFTER NOON WAYNE-K—46 and raining is makes it feel cold if working in the rain- I like our nice cool summers ,hardly getting past 90 f for very long,though we get a bit too much damp chilly weather after hard part of winter ends. We may get a early spring this year according to the predictions, Last year it never really warmed up untill 1st or 2nd week of june- and we had a chilly fall last year. SHORT SUMMERS SOME YEARS. THAT saw mill work is a good combination-makeing good useable lumber while getting nice slab wood ready to chunk at the same time.

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Does anyone understand what is wrong, the blade dips the first 4-5" then it goes straight, but the last board I saw is straight?

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My experience is it is the grain of the wood pushing the blade there are some logs i throw in the burn pile because they will not cut straight.

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A few pictures of what i have been doing recently.

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Yes, some are bad to saw, but I have had this problem for a long time, but think it is worse now, I will try a new blade and see if it is the bending of the teeth that is wrong.
What are you going to build with so much wood?

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Saw blades would be a very good thing to stock up on right now.

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I put on a new blade and then the diving of the blade disappeared, I must be doing something wrong when I’m grinding.

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A few more pictures that i took today. I have a lot of work head of me. I pretty much spend any time im not at work milling lumber so im getting there.






Also a few pictures of the log clamps i usei saw yall were discussing them earlier.

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My experience is that whenever my blade starts diving the first thing I look for is if the blade has enough set. More set for softer wood especially if there are big knots. Another indication is hotter sawdust or sawdust packing on the blade. Hope it helps!

Buzz

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Ok, you mean the bending of the teeth? Or is it the slope? can’t find the word set.

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It is the bending of the teeth Jan. Allows the kerf to be wide enough to drag out the saw dust. I have a old Woodmizer tooth setter for band saw blades but I bought a bunch of blades at one time and don’t cut enough to have ever sharpened my old blades or set them. Craftier guys than me have set them by eye with a small hammer. I think maybe I’ve seen Wayne do that in a video. Anyway beyond my pay scale.

A video about sharpening and setting a blade with the setting part at the very end.

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Can any of you show in close-up how you have done the blade control on your bandsaw, ball bearings, etc.
Do you have the saw band to lie against the rear bearing as support, or do you tighten the band so tightly that the band never goes against the bearing?

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With regular bandsaws the bearing behind the blade is supposed to be just behind the blade and not spin when unloaded. When loaded/sawing it supports the back of the blade and spins. In my little world bubble it should be the same but I don’t have a bandsaw mill ( as you know, I have the same one you had before you rebuilt it as a bandsaw)

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I do have problems with striped wood sometimes, and think it has to do with the saw blade catching on the rear ball bearing,
I have asked and read that the band should not catch on the rear bearing when I run the saw, but I don’t know. Should I tighten the band so much that it stays in place without touching the back layer, it will be a lot.

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There are pictures at post 25 of my homemade blade guides. Unless the blade is in the log the back roller is not engaged. Woodmizer and many other manufacturers of good mills use different, simpler guides that could be made from auto engine belt tensioners. That’s probably what I would do if I built another mill.

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Thanks Tom.
Yes, I have something similar, do you have rubber wheels on your saw too?
I’m beginning to think that the whole fault is that I don’t dare to tighten the belt enough, or that the rubber wheels don’t steer enough.

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Yes, motorcycle wheels and tires. Again, if I built another one I’d use the regular steel wheels and I’d make the log carriage feed into the saw rather than the saw feed into the log. Mine works fine for the amount of cutting I do but it’s certainly not a production machine.

https://youtu.be/APVafT4cBSo

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