Tractor with gas?

I am interested. How can it be useful?
Rindert

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Based on the colour, I assume it might contain some useful hydrocarbons, tars, alcohols etc. It might be very similar to pyroligneous acid. Using fractional distillation may produce fractions of particular value.

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Hopper condensate=weed killer/stunting; post rail condensate=garden insect repellent. Mix the two together it will foam!

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Hopper juice condensate is good to kill weeds, and to kill piss-ants (those red little bastards, that stings worse than a wasp)
And if you put a fresh cut christmas tree in a jar of hopper condensate and let it drink, i becomes “preserved” never lost It’s needles and stays green (well, ugly brownish green, and it smells terrible) :crazy_face:

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Hey Don .

I may also inject some obscenity’s while pouring the condensate on a fire ant mound :grinning:

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I bet it lights up like a bright torch with a match. :slight_smile:

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Today I borrowed a 1.8 m wide soil tiller from my brother, Fergie has to use all his power to drive this tool, the gas has to be constantly strong, otherwise Fergie can’t do it and stops. The first gear is relatively fast, so the tiller grabs and cuts a lot of soil, and for this a great torque is needed on the cardan shaft, well, Fergie was able to do it.
In the evening I remembered to take a picture of the filter, you can see that it is completely clean above, …





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Impressive! Tone, as always.
Running a roto-tiller is no sunday-walk, many smaller tractors struggle on diesel! :+1:

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Sometimes it’s good to clean the ashes… :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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The last few days Fergie has been working a lot, well, I have noticed some changes in the operation at full load and low revs, I suspected that some impurities had accumulated in the gas mixer or throttle valve, but there were not many, the error occurred at the mixer, where certain welds that hold the guide of the moving part loosened, so there was a leak in the housing and a jamming of the moving element. There were also some holes at the bottom of the filter bowl,… well, I fixed these mistakes and changed the filter medium (hay and sheep’s wool) and Fergie is working again on the “factory” settings… (sorry I didn’t take photos of everything)

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Is that an old egr-valve you using for throttle Tone?
Smart solution.

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Hello Goran, yes, this is a used egr valve from a VW 1.9 TDI engine, it has a rather large cross-section (perhaps even a little too big), it works well in medium and high loads, but not so well at low loads, a large negative pressure on the throttle creates quite a bit forces and friction on the axis of the flap, which makes it difficult to move the flap with a small force of the spring and a small force of the centrifugal regulator, well, I must not look for “hair in the egg”. :grin:

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There is a lot of talk about engines, loss of power due to negative pressure, which is created due to the resistance of the gas mixer, filter, cooler, gasifier,… I made a negative pressure measurement directly in the intake manifold behind the throttle valve, so we can actually see what amount of gases the engine inhales. When the engine is unloaded and idling, the vacuum is 0.6 bar (that means 6 m of water column or 236 inches), and with the throttle valve fully open, the vacuum is 0.95 bar (0.5 m of water column or approx. 20 inches). . When I think about what this means for the operation of the engine, I can say that an unloaded engine needs at least 40% of its cylinders to be filled with a combustible mixture, which expands and pushes the piston during ignition and combustion, and at the end of the working cycle, the pressure of these gases is higher than ambient pressure, and at the same time we must also take into account that some of these gases remain in the cylinder when the exhaust and intake strokes alternate, so the engine actually captures only about 30%-35% of the fresh mixture. Here we can conclude that wood gas increases its volume by approx. twice upon combustion, interestingly, similar to when operating on diesel fuel.
If I try to think about the vacuum at full power (0.95 bar), I can say that the resistance of the wood gasification system does not take much power, more power is lost if the engine has a low compression ratio, because more of the burned hot gases remain in the engine due to the large volume of the compression space…

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Your logic and reasoning is sound Tone. Beginning states. Ending states. And residuals all affect.
But, at least one of your numbers relationships seems wrong.
I think
Regards
Steve Unruh

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I still owe you the video material

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In the afternoon I worked with wood, of course you can’t do without Fergio, he brought and sawed approx. 2 cubic meters of firewood.



Here is another new accessory that serves to “filter” the fuel, - a hay blower

There is a lot of dust among the wood chips, which produces a lot of ash, until now this was also burned in the gasifier, but now I separate this dust and leaves from the heavier pieces in the air stream of the blower.


Here is my “gas station”

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I usually change the engine oil in my diesel engines at approx. 100 hours of operation, but on the Fergie the counter shows 135 hours since the oil change, and it looks very clean, so I will increase the change interval to 200 hours


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Do you use synthetic oil?
Rindert

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That oil looks fantastic Tone, your woodgas filter is doing a great job.
Many has observed that oil stays clear much longer in a woodgas engine with good gas filtration, than using gasoline or diesel :+1:

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Hello Rindert, I use 10w40 oil, which is supposed to be semi-synthetic and is actually the cheapest at approx. 2.5 Euros/liter.
Goran, thank you for your comment, I was also very surprised by the cleanliness of the oil since I drive on 100% wood gas.
I’ll add a picture showing Wayne-style gasifier start-up, well, the portable blower takes precedence here.



Come on in and ride with me this evening on our trails

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