got a good trade deal on a new hollan sqare bailer gear bof. And not shure ware the big pipe cutter side is and ware the tire and driveing wheel goes.??
In the last picture the arm that is sticking up gets cut down and that is where the cutter mounts. Just forward of that is the big flywheel that is where power is applied. On mine the PTO shaft mounted to the flywheel center with 3 bolts. Did you check the wire cabinet for any leftover redneck zip ties?
I was trying to upload some pictures but files are to big. If I get it figured out I will post
Tom W; I always E-mail my pictures to myself. Some where in the mailing process the picture get cut down in the number of pixels. When you receive the E-mail you can slide the pictures from the E-mail to your posting. TomC
Thanks tom thats what i was thinking would be the best option, now i no how to build from. Your pictures,I couldent get mine too load till i down loaded a picture resizer from google apps or android apps who,s ever they are. i type in 240 and after that it loaded.before that it was set 800 and 600 . some sizer apps are easyer too use than others.
Trying this again
Photo 1 is just to show the other side of the output shaft which had a pump for squeeze the hay and run the knotters
A couple of photos are just to show how I powered mine and notes to show where the pto assembly bolted on. The bolt with the big washer was just to create a lifting point. You can also see the shear bolt area.
And a view of where the cutter connects with the shortened arm. 3/4 in (18mm) plate with a semi brake drum bolted to it welded to the arm assembly
Thanks again Tom, what size hard and soft wood do you recomend too not overload the gear box, and what size motor is big enough for size of wood.Thanks i tried looking at chris wood chunker and my signal wouldent load fast enough, then i seen your photos, looks good design, your blade unbolts nicely too change or sharpen. Does yours have a notch chanel too keep the cutter from bending as it cuts like chris seans design.
Mine is copied from Chris and Bill Schiller. Mine has a 5 hp electric motor from an air compressor. I want to try the Harbor freight gas engine on it $99. To see what it can handle. Limited to 4 inch diameter mainly because of the brake drum isn’t deep enough. I have ran 4 inch dry Ash and it handled it. I wouldn’t want to run a large amount at one time though. Green wood is butter and dries quick after being shattered by the chunker. It really needs the guards and other safety devices that Chris has on his. Pay attention to the rotation of the box when building yours
Thanks again the five horse electric beats haveing too run tractor all day building up a wood reserve. i got three horse electric motor, that probly chunk some 2" or so ?
I kind of like the idea of keeping the draw bar and PTO to run it off a tractor. I have toyed with the idea of modifying the pickup feed drive on the baler to run a conveyer belt and add a trailer bed to the frame of the baler. Basically just have the chunker at the front end of the trailer. You could haul it to the wood supply with the tractor then when you fill up the trailer bed just haul the chunker and finished wood to your barn to dry before bagging. But the idea of adding a flat storage bed with a convey to get the wood chunks away from the spinning blade seems like it would be an easy upgrade. Not to mention that you could get your power to run it from wood as well.
sure would be nice if we could find a chunker as fast as the big chipper machines. I gess we will have too enjoy the work out chunking wood one chunk at a time for now. probbly a good roller bar conveyer manual too move full baskets away from the chop drop area would help quit a bit.I gess i will be checking aution for a deal now that you reminded me of the woood build up under the chunk frame. Thanks for the design ideas thought checks.
Where is your truck axle chunker?
I believe you had the least powered chunker with a 1 HP MOTOR.
My 2 HP 34 RPM chunker is still going strong after about 10000 lbs of wood chunking.
Ok thanks mike gibb, I still have the axel chunker been too biuzy too use and found some nice 2 and 3 horse elec motors at my dads shop. while cleaning up too resale.i just happened on too this bailer on conversation from guy seen Some aluminum heads heading too auction, was talking about wood gas trucks later at my home, when he said he had 2 he was parting out, decided on tradeing small block chevy parts and a good 400 turbo truck transsmission.So there it is rolling up the parrents house 10 accers road out too the main road after stoping by too see what was left too move before turning keys over toonew owner of property. SOLD THE HOUSE. THOSE hay bailer gear box look a little smaller in person though they have a good 2 3/4" output shaft on the at the arm conection.Wayne has the best one with those dump truck axels. see how this works with 2 and 3 horse motors for now, the bailer has a better inturnal gearing ratio 0f 9 too 1 that may help, waynes dump truck axel IS 6 too 1 or 600 gear, SWEM.
Good evening mike gibb , are you or chris able too remove the arm that the cutting wheel welds too,after all the welding and gusset plateing, Thanks.
I am not Mike gibb or Chris. Mine is removeable if you can get the rusted spline apart I welded a 1/2 inch plate to the arm then I welded a 3/8 plate to the inside the cutter head. bolted the two together so if I have problems with the cutter head I can remove it to work on it or replace it. Since we weld the plate to the arm all the way around It would probably be hard to remove the arm but it is simple to make the cutter head removable.
Hi Kevin, look at my chunker build, I made mine bolt on, easy to remove. Another baler chunker
Thats a neat looking design jacundjake, thanks for the build tips.
Thanks al i am going too check that build design feature now.
There are more pictures on the wood supply thread. I tried to re-post them here , but it said too big.
The entire build Is in the thread ADAPTech Projects