What the hay bailer chunker

sure would be nice if we could find a chunker as fast as the big chipper machines. I gess we will have too enjoy the work out chunking wood one chunk at a time for now. probbly a good roller bar conveyer manual too move full baskets away from the chop drop area would help quit a bit.I gess i will be checking aution for a deal now that you reminded me of the woood build up under the chunk frame. Thanks for the design ideas thought checks.

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Kevin
Where is your truck axle chunker?
I believe you had the least powered chunker with a 1 HP MOTOR.
My 2 HP 34 RPM chunker is still going strong after about 10000 lbs of wood chunking.

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Ok thanks mike gibb, I still have the axel chunker been too biuzy too use and found some nice 2 and 3 horse elec motors at my dads shop. while cleaning up too resale.i just happened on too this bailer on conversation from guy seen Some aluminum heads heading too auction, was talking about wood gas trucks later at my home, when he said he had 2 he was parting out, decided on tradeing small block chevy parts and a good 400 turbo truck transsmission.So there it is rolling up the parrents house 10 accers road out too the main road after stoping by too see what was left too move before turning keys over toonew owner of property. SOLD THE HOUSE. THOSE hay bailer gear box look a little smaller in person though they have a good 2 3/4" output shaft on the at the arm conection.Wayne has the best one with those dump truck axels. see how this works with 2 and 3 horse motors for now, the bailer has a better inturnal gearing ratio 0f 9 too 1 that may help, waynes dump truck axel IS 6 too 1 or 600 gear, SWEM.

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Good evening mike gibb , are you or chris able too remove the arm that the cutting wheel welds too,after all the welding and gusset plateing, Thanks.

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I am not Mike gibb or Chris. Mine is removeable if you can get the rusted spline apart I welded a 1/2 inch plate to the arm then I welded a 3/8 plate to the inside the cutter head. bolted the two together so if I have problems with the cutter head I can remove it to work on it or replace it. Since we weld the plate to the arm all the way around It would probably be hard to remove the arm but it is simple to make the cutter head removable. DSCN0097 DSCN0099 DSCN0104 DSCN0107 DSCN0108 DSCN0106 DSCN0133

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Hi Kevin, look at my chunker build, I made mine bolt on, easy to remove. Another baler chunker

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Thats a neat looking design jacundjake, thanks for the build tips.

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Thanks al i am going too check that build design feature now.

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There are more pictures on the wood supply thread. I tried to re-post them here , but it said too big.

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The entire build Is in the thread ADAPTech Projects

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ok thanks guys i am probbly build like al and make the arm removable, or maybe limit the welds in clamp area so not too much cutting needed to take apart if needed.Thanks again

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Hi jakob are you useing a pipe too cut the wood or are you braeking the wood more like the johnson guy from south africa.Thanks.

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Bob M.'s chunker started as a New Holland bailer…
http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/bobs-wood-chunker

Mine is slicing it, on dryer wood it crushes it pretty good as well.

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Thanks jacub that design seems like might be less strain on gear box, are you able too chop 3" green hardwood at same speed as the other type cutting pipe designs.

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I can easily cut 3 in green hardwood. I have a very big opening on my blade the biggest I was cutting was 7 3/4" It was a semi hardwood.

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I’ve ran 4" dry Oak through mine just to test it out. It handled it without a problem.

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Ok thanks bill is yours a pipe chopper like chris and Wayne or a slicer like jacub and few others.

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Thanks jacub, what size space your chopping the wood through, any video or photos of your finish blade and base chopping bars.? Are you getting same size wood as Wayne without cutting twice.?Thanks.

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I modeled mine after Chris’.

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