Sorry! What I ment was: -Chunked up to dry by noon.
Yes, the wood is green. Only an hour between felling and chunking. It will probably need at least a few days to dry.
But freshly cut wood do dry fast. Dead wood that isn’t split or chunked while green will take longer to dry due to slime bildup between fibers - first stage of decomposing.
It doesn’t usually matter, but my little Rebak likes green 
Does your Rebak peal the bark of your fresh green wood chunks too?
l tryed to chunk some freshly cut wood like yours and it debarked most. I wuld guess this is unwanted for gasification as the bark takes lots of space, meaning lower bulk density of wood chunks.
The bark does fall of some chunks, but most not.
I don’t think bark is much of an issue. It’s so thin on spieces with leaves on and a very low % of the wood.
Maybe if you run pine that usually have thicker bark it can make a small difference. Wayne runs a lot of pine and claims even that doesn’t effect things.
I have lots of some kind of poplar l wuld love to put in use but as l chunk it the bark just slips off so l get a chunk of wood with a rolled up piece of bark takeing a lot of volume. Perhaps l wuldnt get such resaults with your style of chunker.
edit: l chunked young trees up to 3cm diameter
Aha, the piece of bark takes up a separate space making the fuel fluffy? That’s another story.
I don’t know poplar, but many species let go of their bark easier at certain seasons, usually springtime. Maybe try later in the summer or find a way to sort out the bark without to much manual work. That’s all I can think of right now.
That is the case. l have lots of other woods but thod to give it a better purpose rather thain just burning it on a pile. This thing is shrinking our pastures and hayfealds every year so we have lots of it.
I have chunked a lot of Poplar. Mine has usually been laying around the saw mill for some time before it get it. If the bark is loose, I give it a pull and throw it to the side. If the bark is tight, I just chunk it and it may or may not fall off the chunk. Poplar is my last choice for woodgas. When dried good, it is very light and yet takes up space. In my gasifier, it burns kink of like paper. Many miles less out of a hopper compare to hard woods.
JO; I think all chunkers and even saws like green wood best. I use very dead oak limbs that have been down long enough for the bark to fall off. It is harder than hard on my chunkier, but after chunking and fracturing the end grain, an afternoon in the summer sun and it is ready to go. I get very little condensate from the gasifier. TomC
Bark is low on carbon/charcoal content, but it has higher ash and volatiles contents. Ash is wasted space, for the most part, and makes the ash bins fill up quicker (obviously). The volatiles make for bark having a high energy/BTU content per lb/kg.
Need wood to maintain the char bed (which breaks down the volatiles), and to account for the increased ash load, but otherwise bark is good stuff to have.
Have Wood Will Travel 
Ok Wayne, you can delite my posting from yesterday 
You make us all look silly.
But on the other hand I save 3-4$ on every scoop 
Hello JO .
This big ole wood hog needs much more wood than your VW.
I really don’t need anymore wood right now but the wood is piling up on me and I have to do something with it.
I have been doing a lot of unnecessary driving but wood keeps coming .
Wayne ,it looks like by now you must have enough wood to supply the military in the event of a fuel shortage. Probably enough wood burners for the local sheriffs dept as well.
Where can I get one of those automatic wood loaders??? TomC
These down trees that have 5-6 tons of dirt on the root ball can be sawed off at about 30 foot down the log while sitting or standing on the log and really go for a ride . Kinda like a sling shot 
Did you get a free ride, i think i like wood gas better than sling shot rides
Hello Kevin.
No sling shot ride .
I learned a long time ago that these down trees have to be handled differently than others .
I did show my son where he would likely get hurt sawing into these logs . .
How does it behave when you saw close to the root ball? Just trying to learn from your experience
Thanks
I have a tree that was three tunks attached together at the base just above the ground. One trunk broke half way up and the top bent over touching or laying on the ground. My dilemma is do I cut on the side of the tree away from where the broken half is laying hoping the top is still somewhat hanging or do I start sawing on the trunk on the side nearest the broken top— thinking the top may be pushing on the big trunk I It is big and if I get my saw wedged in the wrong side, I will really have a problem. TomC
I’ve run into that phenomenon before, but everybody I told about it thought I was making it up. Glad to know I was not having halucinations or something.
Good morning Mr. Tom .
If I saw close to the root ball from the top side of the log the log will split. That is OK if it is for fire wood but not if sawing in to lumber . It should be sawed from the bottom of the log until about to pinch but hard to do that because the log is pushed in the dirt.
I skipped on up the log to make my first cut at about 12 foot. Cutting on the bottom of the log until about to pinch and then finished from the top side . Being very careful because the base of the tree stood back up after cutting .
