Hi Bruce:
Just as a theoretical exercise I made some calculation to find out the temperature at the nozzle/charcoal enviroment.
Again, this are only theoretical numbers. The real temperatures only can be verified with an engine rpm meter and a thermocouple on site.
Truly Yours.
Eddy Ramos.
Wow, that is some food for thought. Thanks Eddy!
Hi Bruce:
You are more than welcome.
Eddy
Very interesting Eddy.
how do you deduce the temperature in the hot coal, according to the speed of the air ?
This theoretical information confirms the need to inject water into the reaction only at high engine speed!
Hi Thierry:
The nozzle APROX temp according the air speed can be found in the table I mentioned.
See Topic “Nozzle for charcoal gasifiers Part 1” Post #45. This table is based for a nozzle of Diam 3.2 mm. Bruce uses 4 nozzles of 11.1 mm. So the temps are aprox.
Yours.
Eddy
Hi Bruce:
Reading other topics I found some intresting data that you posted about your build, so I thought to write a Specification sheet with this extra data.
Please check it out, and feel free to add, delete, correct what ever info you think it may be relevant.
Thank’s
Truly Yours.
Eddy Ramos.
Hi Eddy,
Thank you for this spec sheet. MGB Roadster, I don’t know about the valves. Not enough highway experience to give good distance and speed numbers.
Hi Bruce:
This is the most I could add to the spec sheet.
If you happen to gather more info please feel free to add it.
Truly Yours.
Eddy Ramos.
Thank you. My current best guess is 3 miles per gallon of charcoal and about 15 gallons of charcoal is usable before exiting gas temperature reaches 350F. At that point the charcoal level is too low to insulate the reduction zone. Density of the charcoal and driving conditions will affect these numbers. I’ll let you know if i get better data.
Hi Eddy,
reading thru your numbers and making some reservations;
at 4000 Rpm with a charcoal gasifier with 60 mm water vacuum, you’l have about 0,35 efficiency
at 2000 Rpm max 0,5
at 1000 Rpm, idling not wot, about 0,09 depending your vacuum.
at 1000 Rpm , WOT, you have max 0,6
at any given time, the air coming thru the nozzle will accelerate after heating up, by heating from the surrounding materials.
At the exit of the gasifier you will have an increase of volume , calculated at normal condition, ambient temperature, of about 20-35% depending your gasifier.
Above numbers are not theoretical but extracted from my testings.
If the gas is “weak” then less mixing air is needed, if the gas is “rich” then a lot more air is needed.
The only way to “know” the real life numbers is to put given engine under load and or being able to measure so many parameters that the only fun you have is measuring 
( sounds as my job description )
About water injection, my humble opinion; just ad enough to overcome timing adjustments and or acceleration need.
Focus on filling efficiency instead on adding more water coz adding more water if not needed decreases your power if you don’t have AFR controlled. ( yes, the hydrogen also needs oxygen to releases its power. )
Eliminate restrictions between nozzle tip and intake valve… listen the engine getting its pistons kicked downwards; a “pow” sound is more powerful then a “tak” sound… ( if the sound start with a k, then its time to rethink strategy 
)
all above in my opinion dough
Koen,
Now itsmy turn for a worn out like button 
Well put. I have been brainstorming for a while and came to the same conclusions/goals.
I plan to use a underfeed EGR sistem with a water drip valve engageing as soon as l step on the throtle. Use just enough water to get a boost, but still have EGR as a main self metering tempering agent.
I have tested this crudely just a few days back, with underfeed egr and a fancy water injection sistem (aka wife with a sprinkler ) and the resaults were wery satisfiing.
Only using EGR spins the engine to 4000rpm in neutral/wot. Using a light sprinkle of water increases the max possible rpm to about 5500. And the throtle becomes much more reactive.
So Bruce is on the right track useing both!
Edit Koen, are those efficiancy numbers for hidrogen enrichened gas or plain chargas? (Just EGR or plain air)
Hi Kristijan,
The eff numbers refer to the amount of gas/air that can be sucked into the engine vs engine displacement.
so, engine 1000 cc with closed throttle will only fill with 90 cc gas/airmix per 2 rev
Therefor the gas should be rich when low rpm and leaner on higher rpm, best results in my case with lambda 0,9 to 1,2
Tending to keep it rich for more power / torque but leaner for rpm and low load
Thank you for giving this MG project your attention. I am honored. I’m learning so much. I hope to use this info and experience to help me gasify a vehicle in Rwanda. We could use a vehicle for a sanitation and charcoal briquette business we are developing.
Hi Koen
As I understand it, in slow motion, you’re aiming at 1.2 and at high speed 0.9?
Excuse me I try to understand?
Hi Thierry,
In my case : lambda 0,9 for low rpm and heavy load
lambda 1,2 for low loads and higher rpm
or the point that i want to make: the airmixture is not the same at all times and ofcourse vary between each motor
Yeah, i understand it is difficult for some of us to place the correct words on the understandable places. English is not my native language as well, so i hope to be forgiven somehow
But we will do our best to understand each other and that is what counts.
I was thinking a lot about this last night. So basicly you say filling ratio is never higher thain 0.5? This comfuses me as in the formulas we usualy take 0.7!
As for lambda, this is wide band sensor voltage or the actual calculated lambda value?
A nother thing that bothered me for awhile now. I read runing lean on petrol is bad forthe engine wear. We usualy run our engines constantly lean. Anyone has any idea is lean mix bad for the engine runing on woodgas too?
Hi Kristijan,
The Lambda values comes from my readout gauges. The easiest way to understand: WOT is rich, Idle or cruising = Stoichiometric, fuel cutt off ( decelerating ) is lean
If i put load on my generator then i can adjust up to a certain level and learn … ( i am still learning, every day )
If you check your vacuum on your intake manifold as example for intake efficiency, then you can understand that without vacuum you will not suck air/gas mixture but same time meaning not the full amount will ever enter your cylinder.
The time that your valve can open, the time your piston already moves, all this have to be discounted from the actual volume that could be entering your cylinders. Equal for the time that your valve has to start closing before the piston is down and moving upwards again…
0,7 is an optimum for a normal engine under normal conditions ( any restriction will decrease the volume )
if you compare your driving and read and understand the values from the MAP sensor, then you will learn some of the above. Try to run with and without the airfilters and so on… compare throttle position with Rpm and MAP, make a graphic in excell and enjoy the benefits of your new knowledge / improvements of your engine and gasifier.
( as we all enjoy your progress so far 
)
This is why there exists variable valve timing and or different cam lob configurations. either for low rev or for high rev’s , big differences…
Running lean in an engine does require some special features as EGT and ignition timing to ensure no excess heat buildup in the engine. accelerating is always rich unless having a “boost” device as blower or turbo, but still requires special build engines.
Woodgas in a “normal” engine would run smooth on little rich, it will lack acceleration if lean but would not easy damage the engine unless unadjusted ignition…
Ha, no MAP sensor, or any sensor for that manner on this old peace of German mechanical engeneering however l was thinking about adding a flow meter to the chargas, perhaps a pitot tube flow meter. But in the end, once the 75% is at full swing you have the engine under your skin and feel what your engine feels
So this richness pattern shuld be easyaly programable with your great wizardry skills
Pitty there are wery litle suitible older 4 valves/cyl engines to choose for woodgas. My 1,6l 16v chevy realy run strong on woodgas.
I am most curious how JOs Mazda turns out. He has 2 intake valves and one exhaust per cyl. Shuld be preety ideal for woodgas.
Oh, sorry for the highjack Bruce
No worries. Again, I am honored that this conversation is happening here. I just hope others will be able to find this good conversation.
Hi,
regarding lean or rich woodgas-air mixtures, I can add some knowledge from the old books.
Petrol in old cars (the time when they were equipped with with carburetors like Bruce’s MG) was usually a bit on the rich side. Petrol power decreases very fast on the lean side, but is not much effected if you are a bit rich. And with a carb it is hard (or better impossible) to be exactly at lambda 1 all the time.
With woodgas, it is different.
Theoretically, the best point in regards of power output is exactly the stochiometric ratio, so that there is no excess or lack of oxygen. The power drops almost equally the same amount if the ratio is changed to the lean or rich side. Compared to petrol, the usable range of lean or rich mixtures is much wider.
Practically, the lean/rich range is a bit more limited as also the ignition and burn velocities of the mixtures change. A lean mixture has not only less chemical energy, but also burns slower in the engine. Thus the total power decrease is higher then just compared to the theoretical value.
But this gives some good advantage of regulating the power output of an engine. It can be regulated by volume AND quality of the mixture.
The amount of a perfect gas-air mixture can be regulated with a throttle valve (similar as a carburetor does).
Or the best mixture is just used for WOT, and a lean mixture is used if less power is needed (throttle valve still fully open, just more air than woodgas). This avoids a high underpressure and thus pumping losses in the intake manifold. For very low power or idling, the rich side give the benefit for putting a higher load on the gasifier, thus keeping it hotter. Was also used the keep the gasifier hot on long downhill runs. Disadvantage: More CO in the exhaust and higher fuel consumption.
In the old books is nowhere mentioned, that a lean mixture is harmful to an engine as is the case with petrol. I guess the peak combustion temp is generally lower.
Edit:
A possible optimum would be a combined quality/quantity throttling of the engine.
Idle: Throttle closed, a bit rich to keep the suction on the gasifier not too low
Medium load: Throttle fully open, lean mixture to keep the suction losses in the intake low
Full power: Throttle fully open, optimum mixture
