Would it be possible to make the gasifier a little wider and shorter?
I assume making it shorter will produce less gas?
I ask because I would like to fit this system under a box cap and modify the box cap at the front corners with scoops to catch air and channel it down over the cooling tubes.
This way in our below 0°F weather in winter I can shut the scoops in the cap and the gasifier should keep everything from freezing.
Barry, my personal opinion:
A cap would probably be possible but not very practical.
First of all, the gasifier would have to be positioned pretty much in the center not to interfere with the sloping cab lines. That would complicate things with where to put the rest of your gear and also with lowering the gasifier by going through the bed. Stepping up into the bed adding fuel, lightup and whatever maintence will get complicated as well.
You will probably discover your gasifier won’t suffer much from cold conditions.
A couple suggestions:
Apart from avoiding low spots in your plumbing, hopper juice is about the only thing you have to worry about. Only vertical piping from the hopper gutter to your can is good enough. Also the can has to be close enough to the gasifier to melt the ice and removable to be brought inside occationally for tar draining.
Always empty your juice within an hour or so after shutdown. You don’t want to start off the next morning with a full, rock solid juice can.
Whenever you bring the can inside for tar draining, make sure your char is dead or cap the hopper drain off, or the gasifier will have nothing but a little ash in the bottom the next morning. Don’t ask me how I know this
Yes BUT it will take a lot of money and time . The gasifier design is designed to use very cheap 55 gallon drums and lids with good seals . If one has to fabricate larger containers that will seal or lock he is talking money .
One can lower the height of the gasifier when going through the bed and mounting on the frame . With the dakotas you can lower 11 inches all other trucks I know of is 4-6 inches .
I have never had any pre gasification condensation ( hopper juice ) to freeze but keep in mind I am in Alabama . Drainage needs to be a vertical as possible for the removal of tar.
Post gasification condensate freezes as easy as water .
I believe as you get more familiar with gasification you will realize having the gasifier in a camper shell , box or cover will not be a good idea .
If the Dakota is your choice of vehicle it’s the only place the gasifier can be lowered through the bed 11 inches without interfering with gastank and driveshaft.
If centered you would probably gain very little hight by going through the bed or even be forced to stay above bed.
Centered and going wider, as you mentioned, could mean filter and heat exchanger would have to be placed behind the gasifier, between the wheelwells. Hard to get to the gasifier then.
I dont have measurements yet but I will be installing a 3" body lift and a 3 inch suspension lift.
So that’s 6 inches, and I’m thinking if I put the gasifier in the centre I can drop it between the frame rails and mount it just above the driveshaft. Leaving adequate space of course.
This could give me a foot or more.
All in the planning stage so input is greatly appreciated!
After you get the measurements and see how close the gasifier will be to the fuel tank and give some thought about crawling under the truck to dump the ashes you may reconsider
I failed to mention , my first two wood burners were fords .
After enough time and miles a coating of carbon will build up in the intake. The metal intakes can be light with a torch or if left alone sooner or later will self-ignite and burn the manifold clean .